Author Topic: Started on the new Savage 10 ML ll  (Read 999 times)

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Offline woodseye

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Started on the new Savage 10 ML ll
« on: February 16, 2004, 03:22:00 AM »
Took the new Savage apart and started in on the inspection. It sits good on the pillars and the stock is pretty stiff in the forend compared to earlier guns. I have decided for weight - handling - and balance to cut 2" from the barrel and have it target crowned. A thin skim bed job along with a little further stiffening of the forend with bedding compound and a small tube should make it perfect.

 I set the accu-trigger to its lowest adjustment and have just under 3# trigger pull that suits me fine. A through bore scrub to remove packing grease revealed that some fire lapping may very well be in order. I made a bullet starter for the pointy style bullets I want to shoot (DC/SST's) by cutting a 7mm-08 cartridge case in half and drilling out the primer hole to accept a brass screw, filled the case with epoxy and fit one of the bullets in to give it the right form. After it hardened I drilled the point out some so it would push on the shoulder of the bullets.

Well made gun with clean lines and excellant safety button thats larger than earlier non-accu trigger guns. I needed to take the rear trigger guard screw out and sand it flat and polish it a little as it was rough when worked thru the channel cut out on the bolt out of the box. Now its smooth as silk and the gun is ready for its bedding and barrel operation. Will start shooting in about 1-2 weeks and will post an update at that point. I believe fire lapping will be more uniform than running JB or Flitz thru the bore on a patch where some parts of the bore will recieve more than others. Some lead buffalo style bullets rolled in a very mild abrasive will do a more uniform job and can be checked for progress with each shot. Hornady SST's arrived with the new MMP sabots and N110 powder should be in today.

     woods
PUT GOD FIRST
Shoot Straight - Shoot Often - Shoot Smokeless - Shoot Savage!


Offline mike3132

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Started on the new Savage 10 ML ll
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2004, 04:40:33 AM »
Why dont you just go out and shoot it before you do all those modifications? If its like most of the 10 ML II's it will shoot 1" or less right out of the box. Enjoy your new gun, mike

Offline woodseye

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Started on the new Savage 10 ML ll
« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2004, 06:28:52 AM »
Quote
Why dont you just go out and shoot it before you do all those modifications? If its like most of the 10 ML II's it will shoot 1" or less right out of the box. Enjoy your new gun, mike


Well Mike........I only own and shoot Savages pretty much 100% and always skim bed every Savage I own. It certainly will never hurt accuracy since it still sits the pillars but the action picks up a lot of increased support and the recoil lug not only makes 100% contact but remains in the same spot all the time. Smoothing and polishing the guard screw was necessary as I don't like bolts to feel like they are running in sandpaper. I'm cutting 2" from the barrel to improve balance and lighten it up some, has nothing to do with accuracy and a lot to do with making it a lighter,quicker handling, less likely to hang up in the thick stuff gun for my style of hunting. Stiffening the forend some on the factory synthetic stocks prevents the barrel/forend gap from closing up when in the bags or on a bipod and effecting accuracy with barrel pressure. If always shot freehand this would be a non-issue, also some stocks are stiffer than others in addition to warm weather causing an increase in the stocks movement.

The barrel lapping is what your statement must be addressing and my take there is it is quite rough inside and hangs a lot of patch material on sharp spots in the rifling. Using plastic sabots it my take years to wear these spots smooth, I have never seen simple fire lapping with something like JB bore paste hurt a bore and it certainly can use some smoothing out of some nature compared to any barrel I've ever owned ( I notice over on the Savage ML'er forum they lap as a matter of new gun get ready because of this same roughness, so it must be quite common ).My gunsmith has looked at it and agrees it should be smoothed up some.I'm more concerned with cleaning and bullet loading as the plastic sabot seals to even a rough bore quite well, and accuracy is not as much dependant on the bore finish as loading and cleaning ( two things I expect to be doing a lot of).

So as you can see, most of my mods are aimed at making the gun easy to load and clean, consistant for shooting, smooth operating, and well balanced and lightweight to carry. I expect an out of the box gun will shoot quite similar just not be tuned to my particular taste. Accuracy will come with careful weighing of loads, arriving at a load the gun likes and leaves the barrel in a realitive neutral state of whip(OCW), good scope and mounts, a good crisp light trigger pull, loading the sabot at the same spot on the barrel each time, the barrel and tang remaining floating at all times, and the recoil lug and action always being in the same spot for each shot.

I have no doubt it will shoot good, as all my Savage guns do, I don't own one that won't shoot 3/4" and most are 1/2" or better.I also plan to apply all the CF tricks and techniques I've learned getting sub 1/2MOA accuracy to this ML'er in the same ways and expect the same basic results. I expect MOA or better at the very least......and really want .750 or so to make me truly satisfied. Thanks....... and I do already enjoy this new one as much as any Savage I own and play with.

    woods
PUT GOD FIRST
Shoot Straight - Shoot Often - Shoot Smokeless - Shoot Savage!


Offline RandyWakeman

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Started on the new Savage 10 ML ll
« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2004, 07:52:58 AM »
Hi Woods,

The "before and after" would certainly be interesting to me. Not because I question your goals, prior experiences, etc., at all-- but it would be of great help to those contemplating similar endeavors, including me. A few groups with 5744 or N110 with 250 gr. sabots would be a great baseline. I'd love to hear what your experiences are, and what improvements you realize in your own gun as a result of your efforts.

Offline simonkenton

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Started on the new Savage 10 ML ll
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2004, 03:43:38 AM »
woodseye-- I am planning to get a black walnut stock from Richards Microfit.
I have the Savage with the black plastic stock. Does my Savage have pillar bedding? What is this?
Would I need to do something to the new stock to do pillar bedding on it?
Aim small don't miss.

Offline woodseye

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Started on the new Savage 10 ML ll
« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2004, 10:28:41 AM »
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Does my Savage have pillar bedding? What is this?
Would I need to do something to the new stock to do pillar bedding on it?


Yes the black synthetic stock has pillars. They are the gold metal sleeves that the two action screws run thru. You would have to have a gunsmith install pillars in the wood stock although a good glass bedding job would also work well and cost a little less. The pillars simply prevent the stock from compressing over time and the action bedding and position changing.

Pillar bedding runs $60-$100 and glass bedding runs $35-$75. You can also glass bed a pillar bedded stock with a thin coat that allows the action to still sit on the pillars with added support and contact at the recoil lug area. Sounds like you are going to a very nice stock.

    woods
PUT GOD FIRST
Shoot Straight - Shoot Often - Shoot Smokeless - Shoot Savage!