Need help with BB mortar carriage

[Reynoldsfx2]

Guys. I am a new poster to the board but have been lurking and reading many of the past posts and responses.   I am building a BB mortar and would like to have a solid 2 inch bar on the end of the mortar welded to the powder chamber instead of the ball welded to the chamber and the base plate like a lot of the mortars that you see online.   


Would you please make a recommendation on the carriage/base style and give me a place I can find a picture and maybe some basic dimensions ?   I would prefer to make the base out of some nice oak that I have on hand vs making one out of steel plate.


Any recomendations you could make would be greatly appreciated


Paul

[Double D]

We have number of Bowling ball mortar projects her on the board. 

Here is mine.  In progress.  Finished delayed for a while as I have a forthcoming overseas contract to fulfill. 

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,246774.msg1099428178.html#msg1099428178

I will let others provide links to there  project.

If you go to the reference sticky at the top of the board you will find several ofthe bowling ball mortar projects listed there.

The best thing to do however is  enter this into google.  site:www.gboreloaded.com/forums bowling ball mortar

You will get a lot of hits that way.   

[GGaskill]

A drawing or image of a historic one of the style you are looking for would help us understand your goal.  Take a look at the Robinson's Battery site for starters.  Mortars are at the bottom of the page.

[Reynoldsfx2]

Thanks for the web site link in your reply.   That is exactly what I needed.   I found the look I was looking for.   I am going to model my mortar after the  10 inch sea coast mortar, model of 1840.   If I put the trunnions on the bottom of the powder chamber and build a stout base out of oak planks I think it will look very authentic


Thanks for the advice and the site to look at pictures


Paul

[Double D]

You need to review this post.  http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,223994.0.html  A bowling ball mortar built just as you described.

[MKlein]

Some more pics here.
http://moultrie.battlefieldsinmotion.com/Artillery-10inchMortars.html

[smokemjoe]

This is mine, 6in.x6in. powder chamber inside and 2 in.trunnion welded to it and the tube,The base is white pine and  piece of plywood on bottom, 18 wideby 30 in. long, Works great, my other one was made of oak and wanted to see what pine would do and has held up fine, hope this helps, Joe

[quaker4u]

 this is mine 2.25"BY 1.5" CHAMBER WITH 1.5 CALIBER BARREL LENGTH
OAK SLED 255 LBS 3"TRUNION 6" THICK ROUND BOTTOM TO FIT SCH 120  PIPE OVER 1" WALLS  3 OZ FULL CHARGE BB FLY'S 500 YD"S.
QUAKER

[Reynoldsfx2]

finished the mortar barrel and working on the carriage now.   I know the picture is kind of hard to view but do you guys think the scale looks about right?   The base is four foot long as it is shown.  I have made the template out of thin plywood and will be making the sides out of 3 inch thick oak planks that I have in the barn.   

[Double D]

finished the mortar barrel and working on the carriage now.   I know the picture is kind of hard to view but do you guys think the scale looks about right?   The base is four foot long as it is shown.  I have made the template out of thin plywood and will be making the sides out of 3 inch thick oak planks that I have in the barn.

No the barrel is too long--but it cannot be helped using an under size OD for a barrel.  I have the same problem with my  Bowling ball mortar.    Finding suitable steel big enough in diameter is tough.  Even if you did find something big enough, you would also have to have a crane to move it.  So no your scale doesn't look right, but what is the alternative---just go with it. 

FWIW the cheeks on the seacoast mortar that used that pattern base, were made cast iron.  I though about having my cheeks made from 2 inch plate...but again, where would I store the crane needed to move it.

[GGaskill]

I thought about having my cheeks made from 2 inch plate...

You could assemble it on site each time.  That way you would have to move only each piece.  Also, you could have made the cheeks from aluminum.  A crane still would be a useful addition, though.   

[Double D]

I thought about having my cheeks made from 2 inch plate...

You could assemble it on site each time.  That way you would have to move only each piece.  Also, you could have made the cheeks from aluminum.  A crane still would be a useful addition, though.   

Al-u-mini-um!!!  That would be as bad as me making them with wood and using varthane so we could see the grain! I would be stoned to death by the board for such blasphemy!

[GGaskill]

Paint hides all.   

[Reynoldsfx2]

Well,,,,,    I made the side plates out of two inch think oak,  in the same shape as shown in my picture.  Didn't apply any finish until I was sure it was going to work like I had hoped


Had a chance to try it out this afternoon,   The sled lasted ONE shot.   The recoil busted it up like it was made out of balsa wood.  I will attach a couple,of pictures when I get them off my phone,   It is worth a look,   Makes me laugh ..   


Paul

[Reynoldsfx2]

Btw.   Found some black powder today at dicks sporting goods.   Had to pay 30 dollars for one pound.

[Cannon Cocker]

Btw.   Found some black powder today at dicks sporting goods.   Had to pay 30 dollars for one pound.

Holly cow.....I mean, er, I've got some for only 29.50.  As much as you want.  50, 100 pounds.  No problem.  Think how much you'd save!

[GGaskill]

The sled lasted ONE shot.

That surprises me unless the grain was oriented in the wrong direction or the sled was not firmly seated on the ground so the cheeks were not bridging the contact points.

My bowling ball mortar is shaped somewhat like a M1861 mortar and the mount is also shaped like that.  It is made of 3/4" plywood and has been fired numerous times without damage.  It does have a little steel bracing on it to prevent flexing of the cheeks but it really is mostly plywood.  I can't find any pix of it now so maybe I will take one later today and post it.

[Zulu]

Well,,,,,    I made the side plates out of two inch think oak,  in the same shape as shown in my picture.  Didn't apply any finish until I was sure it was going to work like I had hoped


Had a chance to try it out this afternoon,   The sled lasted ONE shot.   The recoil busted it up like it was made out of balsa wood.  I will attach a couple,of pictures when I get them off my phone,   It is worth a look,   Makes me laugh ..   


Paul

Paul,
It surprises me also that the sled broke.  I am interested in seeing pictures of the damage. 
What kind of powder charge did you use?  2" thick oak is pretty strong.
Tell us more about this.
Zulu

[Double D]

Doesn't surprise me at all that the cheeks broke.  Especially if he was using a carpenters 2" and red oak from Lowes or Home Depot....that still pretty yhin even for white oak. 

Pretty thin stock and a poor design for a wood carriage for a thin light barrel, heavy projectiles, moderate to heavy charge, directly across the grain structure with full application of recoil forces.  That gun shoul dhave some pretty brutal recoil. 

I would think a lamination of two 2" oak plank for a 4", real inches not carpenters inches, even red oak, per cheek should be strong enough.   

[GGaskill]

My understanding of red oak is that other than being impossible to separate from white oak as lumber, it is much more brittle and unsuitable for use as an artillery carriage.

Maybe Zulu could weigh in here with some real expertise on the subject.

[Zulu]

I have used both red and white oak in carriages without any issue so far.
Certainly, red oak is not as strong as white oak.  But, it is easier to find here down south.  Northern white oak is an excellent wood but harder to get here in the sizes needed.
Zulu