Author Topic: o ring for handi (Read 1056 times)

BIG JAKE · « **on:** February 17, 2004, 01:40:11 PM »

Can anyone give some input on an o ring for handi. Put 100 rounds through it and it's finely settling down, groups are getting better. It's funny bought 2 one shoots great from box, the other was a nightmare. New barrel and still not quite right. Both are .243's. O ring size would be appreciated.

Major · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2004, 02:11:18 PM »

Yes... please tell us what O-ring size to use.

MSP Ret · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2004, 04:11:31 PM »

If I am not mistaken the guys have been using o-rings about 3/8 inch in diameter (OD), place it under the forearm just forward of the forearm attaching bolt to "free float" the forearm.....<><.... :grin:

Major · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2004, 05:12:57 PM »

ThanksÂ…

One more question: I thought the O-ring went around the forearm attaching bolt to "free float" the forearm. Did I remember that wrong? :?:

lik2hunt · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2004, 05:17:53 PM »

The following are a few steps to help increase the accuracy of these wonderful single shot rifles:
First thing to increase accuracy is floating the barrel.

This is done in two steps. First step is to go to Home Depot or Auto Zone and get a flat piece of rubber material. It only has to be 1/16" to 1/8" thick. Cut a hole in the rubber large enough to slide over the forend hanger lug. This will fit between the barrel and the forend. Just snug it up, don't crank down on it.
Second step (this is optional) is to sand some of the stock material out of the forend to make sure it doesn't touch the barrel. I like to put two business cards together and be able to slide them between the stock and barrel without obstruction.

Second thing is trigger job.

There are many homemade recipes for reducing trigger pull, but the safest and best way is send it H&R 1871 Inc. They will bring the pull down to 3 pounds free of charge. You pay shipping though. For a small extra fee, they will reduce it lower that 3 pounds. Another option is to take the rifle to a qualified gunsmith. The fee is usually $25 to $40. Being that the NEF has a solid, one-piece receiver, it makes assembly difficult, it can be done though with much patience and loss of hair.

Third thing is bed the scope mount.

This is optional, but you definitely need to take the screws off and put Loc-Tite on the screws and tighten them down real good.
To bed the scope mount, remove the mount from the barrel. Also take the scope and rings off the rail. Drill two small holes in the end of the mount that hangs over the end of the chamber. Don't drill all the through. Just make them shallow holes. Also rough up the same are with some 60 grit sand paper. This gives more surface area for the epoxy to grab. Now spray the top of the barrel at the chamber area with Pam cooking spray. This is the release agent. Clean the bottom of the rail with acetone or gun scrubber, it has to be squeaky clean for the epoxy to stick. Now mount the scope rail and screw it down tight. Mix up the epoxy (I use JB Weld) and press it down into the space between the barrel and rail. Some tape on the sides will help hold the epoxy in. Let it set up for an hour or so, then clean the excess with a popsicle stick and some acetone. Now let it set up over night. Next day you can take it off and clean it up with a file and sandpaper.

Fourth thing is location of sandbags.

When shooting from the bench, make sure that your rest is moved as far back as possible. This will make things more consistent from shot to shot.

This should get you started. I suggest before doing any of these modifications, take the rifle to the range and put 30-40 rounds through it and see how it shoots. It may shoot good right out of the box.

Major · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2004, 06:23:11 PM »

Thanks a bunch lik2hunt, I thought the shim/O-ring was over the forend hanger lug but wanted to make sure I was remembering it right.

MSP Ret · « **Reply #6 on:** February 18, 2004, 07:54:23 AM »

Major, you are remembering it correctly. The initial instructions I saw were to put a small (appx 3/8") o-ring over the forearm stud. I tried it and it did not free float my barrel, it was as if the hole in the forearm for the barrel lug was bored to deeply and the rubber o-ring made no difference. I guess I could have put and additional (or 2) o-rings in the hole (or on/over the barrel lug) but then I recalled having equal and even upward pressure on a barrel sometines helps to tighten groups. I therefore just placed my small o-ring in the center of the forearm barrel channel just forward of the hole for the barrel lug and centered in the channel, carefully refitted the foream so the o-ring would not shift and firmly retightened the forearm screw. It worked both to free float the forearm with the exception of where it was contacting the o-ring AND it tightened up the groups. It worked for me so that is the way I do it now if it's needed, I would think in some cases having the o-ring out near the front of the forearm might help, each gun is different in it's requirements for accuracy....<><.... :grin:

LibertyShip · « **Reply #7 on:** February 18, 2004, 09:12:24 AM »

I bought a pack of ten o-rings from the plumbing supply section of Lowe's and they worked perfectly. They are #8 O-Rings. 9/16"O.D. x 3/8"I.D. x 3/32"(thick). The manufacturer was Danco, part #96725. I think the pack cost less than a dollar and I put one on my .223 Ultra Varmit and one on my Buffalo Classic.

BIG JAKE · « **Reply #8 on:** February 18, 2004, 09:59:25 AM »

Thanks guys that is what I needed to know.

Major · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2004, 12:50:36 PM »

MSP Ret,

Thank you for the additional information. It is always good to have alternate plans in case one method doesnÂ’t do the trick.

Big Blue · « **Reply #10 on:** February 18, 2004, 02:06:57 PM »

I might as well throw my two cents in. I used an old bicycle inner tube, and cut pieces the size of the inletting in the foregrip. I then cut holes in the center of them to allow the barrel lug to fit thru. You can make a few of them, and add as many as you need to float the barrel. Test it using the dollar bill or business card method that lik-to-hunt described.
Don