Author Topic: Bore guide?  (Read 737 times)

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Offline jaysouth

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Bore guide?
« on: February 24, 2013, 04:21:21 PM »
Do any of you DIY a bore guide for cleaning your Handis?  Or is one available from a commercial source.  Is a bore guide necessary at all?

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Bore guide?
« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2013, 05:57:09 PM »
The FAQs sticky has some options for bore guides, both custom and homemade, I just use a muzzle guard from the chamber end most of the time.

Tim
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Offline petemi

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Re: Bore guide?
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2013, 10:04:27 PM »
I use a brass long flare nut.

Pete
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Offline gcrank1

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Re: Bore guide?
« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2013, 08:54:58 AM »
Clean a Handi?
A case drilled out to take your rod will give you a chamber guide to clean from the breech and keep the crud out of the chamber like you get from the muzzle.
"Halt while I adjust my accoutrements!"
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Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Bore guide?
« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2013, 09:04:00 AM »
I've used brass before, but quit when I started using carbon fiber rods, the nylon muzzle guards work excellent as do the Sinclair guides which I think are made by Possum Hollow.  ;)

Tim

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Offline gcrank1

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Re: Bore guide?
« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2013, 09:30:34 AM »
We've all heard about this demon 'muzzle wear' from a cleaning rod thing forever. If anything gets a lot of muzzle wear its muzzleloaders, yet in 30+ years of pretty intensive use of them and being in matches with a bunch of people who dont use a rod guide, I have yet to see the problem manifest itself.
"Halt while I adjust my accoutrements!"
      ><   ->
We are only temporary caretakers of the past heading toward an uncertain future
22Mag UV / 22LR  Sportster
357Mag Schuetzen Special
45-70  SS Ultra Hunter with UV cin.lam. wood
12ga. 'Ol' Ugly OverKill', Buck barrel c/w  SpeedStock  and swap 28" x Full bird barrel, 1974

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Bore guide?
« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2013, 10:15:59 AM »
There was an article in an issue or Rifle Magazine by Gil Sengel last year IIRC titled "The Other Part of Bore Cleaning", he did extensive testing and inspection with a bore scope on old rimfire match rifles(1920s-on) that had never been cleaned from the muzzle. Basically critical areas are the muzzle crown when drawing the jag/patch back thru the muzzle, another is rod wear in the form of linear scratches(not following the rifling) on the tops of the land caused by the use of jointed rods and/or rod flex. One test was with freshly cut and crowned take-off barrels, damage to the crown was visible after just 50-60 passes of the dragging the jag back over the crown after the patch exited.

Mid bore scratches could also be seen in as little as 6 passes when one of the old slotted jags was used on a new bore. Some of the old barrels he inspected had no reamer marks left on tops of the lands from the initial boring prior to rifling, they were worn off which he attributed to rod flex.

His recommendations were to use a patch/nylon brush combination that wasn't too tight to prevent rod flex, and don't let the patched brush exit the muzzle more than ¼" then pull it back thru the bore, he also uses paper towels for final drying the bore.

I've seen many a muzzleloader rifle with the muzzle completely void of rifling to appear as a smooth bore due to ramrod wear, wore out the muzzle of a Green Mountain .50 barrel myself that I bought new from JP Gunstocks and had to cut the barrel back 6" to good rifling, but I shot a lot, thousand of rounds perhaps in just few years, so I personally know it happens.

Tim
"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" -  Mark Twain

Offline gcrank1

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Re: Bore guide?
« Reply #7 on: February 25, 2013, 01:45:18 PM »
FWIW, (and not at all to attempt to diminish your experience) We had a Issac Haines style fullstock 50cal. with a swamped barrel that got an honest 2500 rounds through it (knew the count by the RB bought) that my wife shot in BP competition. She didnt use a bore guide, but did use a 'poly' range rod and the muzzle rifling didnt look to have worn (we do not have a borescope) and the thing would still shoot possibles if the shooter could. She had a new custom caplock made and retired the first one, then a good friend expressed a desire for it, so he shoots it now. Maybe it was the barrel steel used as I have seen old soft barreled originals that were nigh onto smoothbores. A couple of friends even got that special spud to 'cone' their barrels to be able to thumb seat a patched RB sans short starter and they determined it did not affect the scores when they shot paper. The coning does uniformly remove the rifling in a taper, but I digress.
But 'careful is as careful does' (apologies to Forrest Gump) and I usually use a bore guide as I have them and it 'seems to be logical'. I dont surgically clean my barrels like some do either. My 100ish year old Stevens 22LR target rifle is still competitive, even if I am not anymore, same with My Martini MKIII International, and I would probably cringe to see what a borescope would show me, then there would go the 'confidence in my equipment'.........Having some knowledge of metals I find it hard to believe that a brass or aluminum rod will damage a rifle barrel steel.
So use 'em if ya got 'em, get 'em if ya dont, but dont get too anal about not having one now and then (and dont hamhandedly slam rods and jags through a bore). These things will likely outlast most of us; I know several of mine through the years have served a couple of generations of shooters and are still going strong.
"Halt while I adjust my accoutrements!"
      ><   ->
We are only temporary caretakers of the past heading toward an uncertain future
22Mag UV / 22LR  Sportster
357Mag Schuetzen Special
45-70  SS Ultra Hunter with UV cin.lam. wood
12ga. 'Ol' Ugly OverKill', Buck barrel c/w  SpeedStock  and swap 28" x Full bird barrel, 1974

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Bore guide?
« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2013, 05:11:38 PM »
An old gunsmith acquaintance Gale Stockton of Gresham Gunworks had a couple pieces of TC Hawken muzzles that he cut off to recrown, you could see the rifling was there, but you couldn't feel it, it was so worn, the owners had used fiberglass ramrods in them.

As for brass or aluminum rods not damaging bores, perhaps it might just be the carbon picked up in the bore that actually does the damage, probably the same for the fiberglass rod or any rod for that matter.  ;)

Tim
"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" -  Mark Twain