Swage .227" Hornady 70 gr 22 Savage High Power bullets (#2280) to .224" AR-15

[Land_Owner]

I have a .224" swage die for my RCBS LAM II.  Would it be OK for the bullet jacket, cannilure, lead core, and swage die to "squish" .003" off of the bullet sides and into the overall bullet length (assuming that is where the "excess" .003" has got to go).

What would be the change(s) to the characteristics of a 70 gr. swaged jacketed bullet?

[talon]

Reducing bullets by up to .008"d can achieve satisfactory results in theory, but  perfect results depend upon the bullet's shape, the material of it's jacket and core, and the ring die's actual diameter. For instance, if the jacket has some space in it's nose cavity for its core to flow into, you may not see any change in ogive at all, or any excess core material flowing out of the jacket. A reduction of only .003 may smooth out the rough edges of a cannilure, but it should still perform its function of holding to the case mouth. And, there may be some 'spring back' by the jacket during the reduction. It may be reduced to .2240, but could spring back to .2243.  A real world answer is to reduce one and measure it. If it measures between .2240-.2243 it'll be safe to shoot. There should be no difference it's external ballistics if no lead is lost by squirting out of the jacket, or a change of ogive. Remember, the bullet swage die's reduction  punch differs from a Jacket reduction punch as it's an exact fit to the ring die. If there's any gap, your bullet may end up lopsided. And remember to use  proper swage lub.

[Land_Owner]

Very good point about the swage lube.  Had not thought of that. 

Is your "thinking" about swaging/swaging die the same as Cast Bullet Lube Die "Sizing"? 

I was thinking lube die cast bullet sizing (but talking out of the wrong side of my mouth about having a "swage die" in the OP), which may not create a compatable meeting-of-the-minds.

That part in your post about "jacket reduction punch", "swage die reduction punch", and "exact fit to the ring die" make me think I am not on the same page as you.  I may need to read a "Primer" for swaging bullets...

[talon]

Sorry for the confusion. Just change the term  "ring die" to read " Lub die".  I should have realized you were speaking of the lubrication die ('G,H&I') components and asking if they could perform a reduction of the diameter of a jacketed bullet. Yes, it could be done if you had a top punch that fit the bullet's tip and ogive all the way to where the sides of the bullet became cylindrical and if you took care to adjust the 'I' punch so that it wouldn't hinder the bullet during the down stroke.. Otherwise the bullet's ogive end would distort, and if the 'I' punch was adjusted to cause pressure build up within the 'H' die, a thin copper jacket may even flow into the lubrication ports of the 'H' die. It's having a perfectly fitted Top Punch made that will be your problem, as all of the standard top punches are unsatisfactory for this task. If you've ever lubed a pure lead bullet you've noticed a slight distortion of the bullet's nose, even if you used the Top Punch that was called for. While your jacketed bullet has a skin of copper, it's core is pure lead and it doesn't take much to crush it. After having said that, it's something like the LEE lubersizer that you may want to use. That system pushes the bullet all the way through the "sizing die", nose first. I understand that some folks do use it for reducing the diameter of jacketed bullets down by .008 inches or less.  I wouldn't be surprised if getting the top punch you'll need will exceed the cost of that LEE tool.  Again, you want to use "swaging lub" and not " Lubbing lub". They serve different purposes.

[iiranger]

No disrespect to Mr. T... Mr. Corbin (both actually, Dave, swage.com, and richard, rceco.com) have books on web sites that discuss things such as this at great length. Regrettably, no pictures.  The classic high pressure lubes are castor oil and lanolin, both available at drug stores. Get anhydrous lanolin, means "without water" and less likely to rust your steel tooling. You can mix them. And, as suggested, the LEE system pushing the bullet on the base is probably preferable. I believe LEE makes a .225 too which might give you best accuracy. Point Dave harps on, lead is a "dead" metal with no "spring." Copper has spring and you risk the jacket "springing" a bit and a loose core. As said, you won't know for sure without trying. With the price of bullets, unless you have a stash, a lot of work for Your bucks, you call. Luck. Happy trails.

[MIBullets]

What you need is a bullet reducing die or "ring die" as talon refered to it. You swage up in diameter and draw down in diameter. I would get the Lee bullet sizing die in .224 and try it. The final diameter may be slightly over .224 but if within reason they will be fine.

[Land_Owner]

Swage lube.  Understood.  I have decided not to invest in the ring die, top punch, or Lee equipment for nose first drawing down. 

I have two (2) boxes, 200 total bullets, of .227" diameter.  I am certain now that I didn't realize then what was in hand for purchase.  I chose poorly.  Lesson Learned.  Apparently there is a very narrow following in the 22 Savage High Power regime. 

To load these, as they are, and fire them (i.e. draw them down in real time) through the bore of a .223" diameter Bull barrel Handi-rifle is also NOT a practice that I find alluring, appealing, or beckoning.  These bullets will continue to sit on the shelf.  Someday the Planets will align and they will find a home with a reloader of that caliber. 

I appreciate all of your responses and their insight into changing caliber/diameter.  There is a whole lot more to it than meets the eye.