Author Topic: Third round of questions  (Read 865 times)

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Offline Indygunworks

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Third round of questions
« on: March 06, 2013, 04:51:56 AM »
First, here are a couple of pictures.
 

 

 

 
I plan on using a 1 inch solid shaft axle.  I am going to find (hopefully) some black gas piple w/ the proper ID and sleeve the inside of my hubs to prevent the wood from rolling on the metal axle.  this should give me more strength and beef the whole thing up.
 
now for the questions.
 
Do i need a washer between the hub and axle box?  or can i just line the outside of the axle box w/ a metal cap?  Where can i find a washer the right size for the outside of the hub, and two pins that will look correct to hold the wheels on?
 
I plan on offsetting my wheels a bit lower on the axle box (ie not centered).....  I am doing this because my hubs are not huge and the small diameter of the hubs are just over 5 inch's  which will equal the axle box, so offsetting it will help them stand out a bit more.... how far off center should i put these?
 
I have a crazy thought of cutting my axle at a slight angle, rotating one piece and welding it back together.... this will make my axle slightly angled downwards and perhaps give me some decent cant on the wheels.... is this a good or bad idea? perhaps it will weaken the axle too much?

Offline Indygunworks

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2013, 10:28:30 AM »
Well good or bad idea, i already got the holes drilled and the black pipe fitted... just got to epoxy it in place.  so if its a bad idea, lets just keep that to ourselves for now.   8)

Offline Cannon Cocker

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2013, 10:35:02 AM »
Nice looking barrel. 

Offline GGaskill

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2013, 10:38:47 AM »
Originals had metal inserts in the hubs.  I would put a washer between the hub and axle box to minimize rubbing.

Regarding getting the wheel cant, if you have a rosebud for your gas welding outfit, just heat the bar and bend it, making sure the bend is not in the hub, of course.  You will need to anchor the axle so it can't rotate.

However, unless your wheels are dished, the cant will cause premature failure of the wheels as there will be a bending action as the wheels rotate because the fellows are not directly under the hub.  The constant bending as the wheels rotate will loosen the spokes in the hub.  So maybe no cant.
GG
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Offline flagman1776

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2013, 11:09:38 AM »
Really impressed with the look of the tube.
If you can plan it...  a steel axle & and a oversize sleeve epoxied in...  I have occasionally used small diameter steel rods lenthwise along the axle all the way around...  homemade roller bearings.  They can't get out of line because they are full length of the wheel.  The set I did is not on a cannon but they are still in service, many years later.   

Offline Indygunworks

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2013, 03:51:23 AM »
Still looking for tips on where to find the pins that hold the wheels on.

Offline flagman1776

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #6 on: March 07, 2013, 04:44:19 AM »
Do you have a blacksmith?  There are many blacksmith's in the re-enactor community.  You'll probably have several parts that will need to be 'smithed.  While it could be done long distance, easier local. 
I am very fortunate a friend is a skilled blacksmith.

Offline Double D

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #7 on: March 07, 2013, 04:55:17 AM »
Did you look in the stickies.  There are numbers suppliers of these type parts listed there.

Offline Indygunworks

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #8 on: March 07, 2013, 05:11:07 AM »
Ill check the stickies.....  Also, how far offset do you guys think would look good?  one inch.... inch and half?  the axle box is going to be 5 inch's square. the hubs SMALLEST diameter is 5.5 inches. 

Offline Cannoneer

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #9 on: March 07, 2013, 05:13:41 AM »
Still looking for tips on where to find the pins that hold the wheels on.

One of our sponsors makes lynch pins for the prairie carriage, if they're to big you can grind/file them down some.

http://www.cannonpartsltd.com/model_prairie_irons.htm
RIP John. While on vacation July 4th 2013 in northern Wisconsin, he was ATVing with family and pulled ahead of everyone and took off at break-neck speed without a helmet. He lost control.....hit a tree....and the tree won.  He died instantly.

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Offline Zulu

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #10 on: March 07, 2013, 07:35:02 AM »
Indy,
You have a blacksmith helping you don't you?
A lynch pin would be a no-brainer for him.
Zulu
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Offline Indygunworks

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #11 on: March 07, 2013, 07:46:31 AM »
Indy,
You have a blacksmith helping you don't you?
A lynch pin would be a no-brainer for him.
Zulu

I dont have enough information to even begin to tell him what it is or how to make it.... all i can find are a few undetailed pictures. and i dont know what lynch pins for this type of carraige should look like.

Offline Zulu

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #12 on: March 07, 2013, 09:06:05 AM »
Indy,
You have a blacksmith helping you don't you?
A lynch pin would be a no-brainer for him.
Zulu

I dont have enough information to even begin to tell him what it is or how to make it.... all i can find are a few undetailed pictures. and i dont know what lynch pins for this type of carraige should look like.

Do what a blacksmith would have done in the 1700's.  Make something up that looks good and works.  All it has to do is hold the wheel on and not fall out.
Zulu
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Offline Zulu

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Re: Third round of questions
« Reply #13 on: March 07, 2013, 09:10:28 AM »
Look in your Round Shot and Rammers on pages 52 & 53.
Both drawings have a picture of one.  It's a pin with a triangular head.
Zulu
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