advice needed on buying my first S&W

[wendell21]

im looking to purchase a used s&w revolver for my first. my funds are fairly limited and ive seen several used model 64s and 65s that are police duty revolvers. i like the classic and simple look of these handguns and they seem to have a 4" heavy contour barrel. some are double action only and i was wondering if a standard hammer could be replaced so that it could also be fired in single action as well. any and all advice is appreciated and if there are other models to be suggested, i will gladly check them out. thanks in advance.
bob

[Bigeasy]

I do not know off hand if it's just a hammer replacement to convert a DA only gun.  I would definitely want a gun capable of single action as well as double action fire.  It is more practical, and would probably be worth more if you decide to sell down the road.  I would also look for a gun with adjustable sights, such as a model 19, 66, or an L frame 586, 686.  POI can vary, depending on the gun and load you are using, and the adj. sights are a nice feature.
 
You want to make sure the timing is good (cock the gun slowly, while keeping a little drag on the cylinder, it should lock up.  If not, and it takes a little extra push for it to lock, then most likely the hand is worn, and needs replacing).  Also check the lock up feels tight, without a lot of slop, or front to rear movement of the cylinder.  Test the trigger pull both SA and DA, they should be smooth, without any binding.  Same with the ejector.  Check the bore for rust and pitting.
 
I would not be overly concerned with the exterior finish on a "shooter" grade gun.  A lot of ex-service guns show a lot of finish wear from the holster and weather, but are tight mechanically, having not been shot very often.
 
Earlier guns with pinned barrels and recessed chambers tend to bring a little more money to collectors.  Later models of these same revolvers without those features are just as strong, and bring a little less $$.  In today's market, a good shooter grade K or L frame Smith is bringing, very roughly, about $350 / $450.  98% examples, complete with original box and accessories can bring $700 or more, depending on the model.
 
Larry

[wendell21]

Larry,
thank u so much for all the great info. i was curious about the "pinned barrels". i agree Bout needing the hammer that cN be fired single or double action. ive shot enough handguns the the double action is simply nice to have in an emergency and really unused other than that. thanks again sir.
regards,
bob

[Bigeasy]

Pinned barrels are simply a barrel screwed in, with a retaining pin drilled thru the frame / barrel shank.  They, along with the recessed chambers were discontinued in the 1980's as a cost cutting measure.  Collectors like them, along with the case hardened triggers and hammers, as they represent an era where more hand-fitting went into a gun.  Those same features, however, are really not needed, as experience has shown more modern S&W revolvers to be just as accurate and reliable as those of old.
 
Larry

[mcwoodduck]

From what I have seen about the single Double action hammer vs the Double only is the sear on the bottom of the hammer that gives the trigger a place to grab on to and act as a single action.  the single / double has a notch.
Any of the Model 65's would be a good choice.  I have owned a number of them over the years and have one currently that is my bed side gun.  they have been reliable and rugged.  and easy to customize a little with grips and polish or with a sand blasting for a dull finnish. 

[1911crazy]

First beaware these can get habit forming really fast.  I would look for a K38 masterpiece in 38 special or a similair model in 38 special.  The barrel lengths, the size of the revolver and finish will vary along with the cost.
Right now my LGS has a new S&W M58 w/4" barrel in 41mag in nickel for $599 on sale/clearance.  I wonder if all the gun shops are doing this with the N frame revolvers.

[wendell21]

thanks again to all for the info. first, to mr 1911, im aware if the addictive nature of getting into these. ive been hooked on TC encores and contenders and the various barrels, finishes, frames and custom stocks. and then of course the scopes that must be added to the various barrels!!! it can become overwhelming.
couple more questions and thanks Larry for explaining the pinned barrel. this is most likely an elementary question, but what does the second number after the dash mean as in a model 65-3. it obviously doesnt reflect barrel length. im assuming the 65 refers to the model.
second, i like stainless revolvers. when i see some that are said to be bright stainless and then another that is said to be nickel, i cant really tell the difference in the photos. moreover, ive seen some stainless ones that seem to be a matte stainless. ideally, i would like to find a 4" pinned barrel revolver the has the std hammer for dbl and single action fire and with adj sights that the exterior finish is maybe rough on to keep the price down but with good lockup, timing, trigger, and bore, and that i could polish up abd bring back to shiny condition. would i need to get a nickel finish or bright stainless?
lastly, i searched for the models that larry also suggested on gun broker and though i realize that prices on all guns are high due to our political climate, but they seemed to be extremely high for the model 66, 19, 586 and 686. i have no local well stocjed gunshops near where i live and so can anyone suggest other places to search for a good used smith. im all over gun broker, gun auction and guns america.
thanks again to everyone for the generous and useful info and i wish you all the very best.
bob

[spruce]

I understand your pain when looking at prices on the auction sites!  I suppose a good deal can be found there, but you'd better be quick and AWFUL lucky.  Good deals can be found at LGS, but it will take some searching - and you have to be there at the right time, before someone else scoops it up.
The .38 special models will be cheaper than the .357 models (everything else being equal).  The downside is you'd be limited to firing .38 spls only, whereas with the .357's you can shoot either one.  It's a matter of your personal preference and your intended usage.
 
Nickel guns are plated, stainless guns are stainless all the way through.  You can't polish out scratches in nickel plated guns as you'll go thru the plating and once there's a breech in the finish it will start to peel and flake off.
Smith numbers can be confusing when you first start looking at them.  You're right, the 65 in 65-3 is the model number.  The dash numbers ("3" in your example) simply indicate that some kind of change was made.  Dash numbers may be important to a collector and some shooters, but as a practical matter I don't think it makes much difference if you're looking for a good shooter grade gun.
The fixed sight models will be the cheapest, but the adj. sight models will allow you to use a variety of different loads.  The model 10 is fixed sight, .38 spl in blue.  The model 15 is a model 10 with adj sights, blue.  The model 64 is a model 10 in stainless.  The model 13 is a .357 fixed sight in blue.  The model 65 is a model 13 in stainless.  The model 19 is a model 13 with adj sights.  The model 66 is a model 19 in stainless.  The model 586 is a beefed up (frame) version of the model 19.  The model 686 is the same as a model 586, but in stainless.  The model 686 also has been made in a 7 shot version.  Oh forgot, the model 67 is a model 15 in stainless.
 
Confused?? I am!  Smith makes a fine revolver, but their numbering system leaves a little to be desired - in my opinion!

[wendell21]

spruce,
big thanks for the excellent info! u told me exactly what i needed to know about the nickel vs stainless. also, the model info is quite helpful. like u said, i really would like to get 357 and have the option to shoot 38s. i have some 357 ammo and maybe a few 38s. i really like the classic look of the pinned heavy contour barrels. when i was younger it was the opposite, but the older i get the more i appreciate ease of carry and the more i respect tge older more classic lines of most all firearms.
another question or two please,
what pinned barrel models will have a 4" heavy contour barrel?
also, i like the more rounded grips at the base though im not a big fan of the tiny wood grips. my question is, to convert a squared butt grip to a round butt, simply requires an adapter from hogue or whatever grip manufacturer correct?
thanks again to everyone for the valuable advice and info.
regards,
bob

[spruce]

When people refer to round butt or square butt they're actually describing the actual frame.  On the round butt style the bottom rear of the grip frame has a rounded profile, on the square butt frame it's not rounded off.  The later models are round butt and the earlier ones are square butt.  Not sure exactly when Smith made this change - someone else will have to chime in on this.
 
Also, not sure when they quit pinning the barrels - whether it was before or after they went to the round butt frame.  Personally, I wouldn't care if it was a pinned gun or not, but some do.
 
Round butt grips won't work on a square butt frame because the lower corner of the frame would be sticking out past the grips.
 
About the only heavy barrels I can think of in .357 are the model 65 (fixed sights) and the 586 and 686 (both adj).

[Gray Paw]

I think you'd be happiest with the Model 66 or 686.  The M66 is no longer made, the 686 is a current model which has been around since the 80's.  Both of them are stainless steel, .357 Magnum with adjustable sights.  Both available with 4" barrel.  Expect to pay closer to $600 for a nice one.  You won't find these models available as police or security trade-ins.

If you want to go cheaper, the stainless M65 with fixed sights is probably your best bet.

[bearman49709]

Any S&W that starts with a 6 ie 65,66,686 is stainless steel all others are blued or nickeld.

[mcwoodduck]

Any S&W that starts with a 6 ie 65,66,686 is stainless steel all others are blued or nickeld.

The 642 is a hybrid.  Stainelss steel barrel, and cylinder  with an Aluminium frame.