Author Topic: multi part question about shortening a barrel (Read 1233 times)

acgill07 · « **on:** March 28, 2013, 08:19:35 AM »

First, my local gunsmith said he could do any bolt gun but would not do a Handi rifle because the welded on lug would not allow him to put it in a lathe.
1st. Is that right? Is there another good way to do it?
2nd. I have 2 different barrels that I am considering cutting down. One is a .357 mag (getting in line for the reamer). The other is a 30-30. I would like to cut at least one to 16.5 and may leave the other at 18. Recommendations on length for each. What balances well? The .357 sure seems barrel heavy. Thanks.

Andy

sluggo · « **Reply #1 on:** March 28, 2013, 08:52:27 AM »

Yes, if done on a lathe, an adapter is needed to ensure complete concentricity with the chamber

Doc Fillem · « **Reply #2 on:** March 28, 2013, 08:52:36 AM »

I know some will cringe at this, but a hacksaw works just fine. Flat file to clean it up, file and sandpaper a nice radius on the outer edge, then a round head screw and lapping compound on a drill for the crown. Hit it with some cold blue and you're done. Take your time and it looks professional.
I like 18", any less looks funny to me.

Larry Potterfield, the owner of Midway USA, has videos on Youtube showing it done.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #3 on:** March 28, 2013, 08:59:27 AM »

Quote from: Doc Fillem on March 28, 2013, 08:52:36 AM

I know some will cringe at this, but a hacksaw works just fine. Flat file to clean it up, file and sandpaper a nice radius on the outer edge, then a round head screw and lapping compound on a drill for the crown. Hit it with some cold blue and you're done. Take your time and it looks professional.
I like 18", any less looks funny to me.

Larry Potterfield, the owner of Midway USA, has videos on Youtube showing it done.

a brass screw

slngblde · « **Reply #4 on:** March 28, 2013, 09:40:18 AM »

On shotgun barrels i use a tubing cutter. On rifle and pistol i use my milwaukee band saw. Both are dressed with a file and sometimes lapped on a steel plate with fine sandpaper. Last step just depends on if i feel like an extra step.
This 44 was cut with the bandsaw and filed back perfectly smooth.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #5 on:** March 28, 2013, 09:47:18 AM »

There are several links in the FAQs sticky on cutting and crowning including the Potterfield video, I've done a bunch of em with a hacksaw, never owned a lathe.

Tim

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #6 on:** March 28, 2013, 09:51:19 AM »

in my trade sometimes we see guys who buy a new tool and if they can't figure out how to use it on a job they won't take the job

YRUpunting? · « **Reply #7 on:** March 28, 2013, 11:30:32 AM »

When I had my smith cut down my sidekick he did the crown in his mill.

petemi · « **Reply #8 on:** March 28, 2013, 11:37:19 AM »

I often wondered if a chop saw or radial arm saw with a medal cutting blade would work. You'd be able to square it well.

Pete

quickdtoo · « **Reply #9 on:** March 28, 2013, 11:39:42 AM »

I've done a couple muzzles in the mini-mill, cut with hacksaw first, then clean up with the mill, saves a lot of filing and finish work, then recess the crown with a carriage bolt.

Tim

Darryle · « **Reply #10 on:** March 28, 2013, 11:43:48 AM »

Quote from: petemi on March 28, 2013, 11:37:19 AM

I often wondered if a chop saw or radial arm saw with a medal cutting blade would work. You'd be able to square it well.

Pete

Too much heat

Spanky · « **Reply #11 on:** March 28, 2013, 12:46:23 PM »

Sounds like you need a new gunsmith.

I've done a few of them in our old lathe. Just use a 3 jaw chuck and put the lug between 2 jaws and use a steady rest.
Or you can use a hacksaw, sawzall, chopsaw, etc and file smooth like the other guys said.

Spanky

quickdtoo · « **Reply #12 on:** March 28, 2013, 01:18:29 PM »

Sawzall works too, just be sure to wrap the barrel with masking tape so the foot doesn't remove the bluing.....don't ask how I know that.

Tim

Shu · « **Reply #13 on:** March 28, 2013, 01:20:27 PM »

Hacksaw or sawz all, then file flat. I use a countersink to crown. Just go slow and don't drive it in deep. I have done several this way with no loss in accuracy.
18" is good for a 30-30 but I prefer 16.

v8r · « **Reply #14 on:** March 28, 2013, 01:30:18 PM »

Yeah I was going to say three jaw chuck also, but Spanky beat me to it. If that gunsmith couldn't figure that out maybe he isn't a gunsmith.........

Ranger99 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 28, 2013, 02:05:53 PM »

last one was a metal-cutting
bandsaw, just because i happened
to be at where it was with the barrel.
it had liquid circulating over it,
but it would have been ok without.
i used a pipe cutter for my shotgun.

tacklebury · « **Reply #16 on:** March 28, 2013, 02:39:12 PM »

I have chucked mine into the jaw many times on the old manual lathe my buddy has. We never had any issue.

Nate C · « **Reply #17 on:** March 28, 2013, 02:54:25 PM »

I don't know what your time is worth, but ADCO just cut my Handi 357 to 16.5" and put threads on it for $55. Charged me $15 for a thread cap that matches, and turned the whole thing around in less than 2 weeks.

They are as good or better than anyone when it comes to concentricity / squareness / crowning. http://www.adcofirearms.com/

Check my other post for pics of the 357 at that length. I posted a pic last week. I think it balances real well.

Nate

nanuk-O-dah-Nort · « **Reply #18 on:** March 28, 2013, 04:53:49 PM »

I"ve read where a Carbide tipped plywood blade will cut steel very well, little heat, and no sparks.

leaves a nice finish also.

with some time and a good square, one could get the barrel perfectly perpendicular to the blade on a compound miter saw.

rdlange · « **Reply #19 on:** March 28, 2013, 05:06:43 PM »

Posted before about what I do. Hose clamp around the barrel, cut a little long and file down to the clamp give a pretty square muzzle. Then google "Lee case trimmer muzzle crown" and do that. Brass screw with Flitz to get the final burr off. Several barrels and they all shoot great.

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php?topic=199158.0

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #20 on:** March 29, 2013, 08:40:41 AM »

Quote from: nanuk-O-dah-Nort on March 28, 2013, 04:53:49 PM

I"ve read where a Carbide tipped plywood blade will cut steel very well, little heat, and no sparks.

leaves a nice finish also.

with some time and a good square, one could get the barrel perfectly perpendicular to the blade on a compound miter saw.

I have cut a lot of plywood with a carbide tip blade and when one hits a nail you get sparks and when the tip comes off it can get interesting real fast . Keep in mind the tips are silver soldered on.

theratdog · « **Reply #21 on:** March 29, 2013, 08:22:31 PM »

i used quick's suggestion and used a saw's all works real slick cleaned it up on my bench with disk sander shoots as good as before.gbo rents a crown cutter.

ddelaurant · « **Reply #22 on:** March 30, 2013, 06:39:22 AM »

Another vote for the hacksaw and padded vise method.

I've done this so many times that I finally invested in a kit from Brownells which they call .38-.45 Basic Chamfering Kit. It currently runs $82 (ouch!) and consists of a handheld cutter and a set of brass bore pilots. The kit is also useful for repairing a nicked muzzle crown.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/barrel-tools/chamfering-tools/38-45-basic-chamfering-kit-prod514.aspx

geezerbiker · « **Reply #23 on:** March 30, 2013, 08:04:20 AM »

I must be strange. I've never had a rifle that I thought had too long of a barrel. My .308 bolt gun as a 26" barrel and I think it's just about right...

Tony