Author Topic: Smegma! (Read 1123 times)

oldprofessor · « **on:** February 21, 2004, 11:22:03 AM »

No, I am not refering to that sebaceous secretion that accumulates in the folds and crevices of your intimate parts... :oops: but I did make you look. Please don't take offense gentlemen, and ladies; that stuff is secreted by both sexes.

What I refer to is that crud that accumulates inside the action of pistols and revolvers. That term is the best description I could think of.

How often do you take your revolvers, and other weapons, apart to really clean them?

I was taught, first by my father and then by the military, that if I did not keep my weapons in pristine condition I would personally be responsible for the victory of the Viet Cong and spread of communism. I now know that it's ok to let the bore get a little dirty occasionally. Nevertheless, I clean my weapons after each session and that allows cleaning fluids, oil, etc. to find it's way into all crevices by capillary action and then to attract dirt, grime, and all sorts of crud that will eventually interfere with smooth functioning of the firearm. I don't completely dismantle my weapons each time I clean them (except those which are meant to be field stripped) and don't know anybody else who does either.

My question is: how often (number of rounds, number of firing sessions, etc.) do you take your weapons apart to clean them?

williamlayton · « **Reply #1 on:** February 21, 2004, 01:48:04 PM »

Field strip em all after ever shootin. Doan detail strip em cause they is sigs and i doan know how to do that. That Walthers get tha same treatment.
Blessings

ButlerFord45 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 21, 2004, 03:01:23 PM »

Most every time I shoot them. However I've found a means or two of cheating. Break and electric motor cleaner from the auto stores does a good job of blasting away grime on those days I just don't want to mess with it. It's about the same as "GunScrubber" at about 1/4th the cost.

HappyHunter · « **Reply #3 on:** February 21, 2004, 05:49:57 PM »

Butler Ford,

Does the break and electric motor cleaner harm plastic or rubber?

I currently use Crud Cutter, but sure would like to find a cheaper alternitive.

Thanks,

Fred

ButlerFord45 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 21, 2004, 06:33:30 PM »

Hunter, I don't know, I don't think so. What I will do, tomorrow, I'll squirt some on some plastic and rubber articles and let you know what happens. Best I can offer.

HappyHunter · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2004, 03:01:17 AM »

Butler Ford,

Thanks, that would be very helpful.

bdutton · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2004, 03:22:14 AM »

Quote from: oldprofessor

How often do you take your revolvers, and other weapons, apart to really clean them?

My 1911? After every 200 rounds. I completely take it apart and spray the frame and slide with brake cleaner, let it dry and oil it generously.

My Pardini .22 SPE? After every 500 rounds or so. I spray the trigger assembly with brake cleaner, dry and lightly oil the trigger assembly only.

bdutton · « **Reply #7 on:** February 22, 2004, 03:25:48 AM »

Quote from: HappyHunter

Butler Ford,

Does the break and electric motor cleaner harm plastic or rubber?

I currently use Crud Cutter, but sure would like to find a cheaper alternitive.

Thanks,

Fred

DO NOT USE brake cleaner on anything but metal. It will harm plastic, rubber and even wood (removes the finish).

williamlayton · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2004, 03:26:57 AM »

Let me ask a question.
I have a pancake compressor for nailer and staplers. Is it safe to use this compressor to blow out the weapon after cleaning?
Blessings

bdutton · « **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2004, 04:17:16 AM »

Quote from: williamlayton

Let me ask a question.
I have a pancake compressor for nailer and staplers. Is it safe to use this compressor to blow out the weapon after cleaning?
Blessings

A friend of mine uses his air compressor to quick dry his metal parts after cleaning with brake cleaner.

daddywpb · « **Reply #10 on:** February 22, 2004, 11:08:04 AM »

When I was shooting revolver matches, and going through about 1000 rounds a week, I found a way to clean them up quick. I took the cylinder out, and the grips and sideplate off. I bought an inexpensive air brush from a hobby store, filled the container with Hoppes #9, and hooked it to a portable air tank with a regulator to keep the pressure down. The Hoppes flushed all the crud out of the guts quickly and easily. Works great with auto frames and slides too.

myronman3 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 22, 2004, 03:27:32 PM »

in all reality, an i.g. clean weapon isnt a weapon that will operate at the utmost in reliability. the metal to metal is actually bad for the weapon and a little oil and unburned powder helps to act as lube. too much is bad,of course. that is the major problem i had with the military as far as weapons were concerned. they wanted everything spotless.

ButlerFord45 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 24, 2004, 11:55:22 AM »

myronman, I gotta take exception with the unburned powder acting as a lube, I just don't agree with that part of your statement.

As for my unofficial testing of brake and electric motor cleaner. First there is Break cleaner, Brake and electric motor cleaner, then there is electric motor cleaner. The stuff labeled a brake cleaner, I wouldn't use on a firearm, it seems to be the nastier of the three and it does leave a residue. I "tested" the ones labled for electric motors. I let the stuff stand for an hour (had to replinish the fluid to keep it wet frequently) on:
Styrofoam, teflon thread tape, electrical tape, plastic cap from a can, o-rings, rubber air line covers, painted wood, painted metal, varnished wood, oil finished wood, sandwich bags, plastic wrap and a condom. After less than thirty minutes the condom started to leak, everything else was unaffected except the adhesive on the electrical tape. So unless your taping on your condoms, this is a good economical product that I have used for several years.

williamlayton · « **Reply #13 on:** February 24, 2004, 12:25:19 PM »

What brand leaked?
Blessings

PS--I'M JUST KIDDIN< DOAN GO THERE<

myronman3 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 24, 2004, 02:50:49 PM »

with the way i worded it, you are right to disagree. what i meant to type was the burned powder residue combined with the light oil act as a lube. unburned powder does not help at all. and, after the residue gets too thick, it does hamper things. keep in mind i aint talking a filthy weapon, i am talking about military i.g. standards that arent good for the weapon. they wouldnt even let you keep a light coat of oil on it because of the fear that when inspected the oil would cause residue to bleed out; thereby causing a gig. under severe conditions, weapons that had a light coat of oil and residue operated longer without malfunction. i keep all of my weapons with a light coat of oil and will never use brake fluid on any of them. i have seen what it can do, and it aint good. better to keep them sensibly clean and leave it at that.

HappyHunter · « **Reply #15 on:** February 24, 2004, 03:19:13 PM »

Butler Ford,

Man o man now that was a test. I will be looking for break and electric motor cleaner. What brand or trade name cleaner do you use?

Seriously, great job on the testing.

Fred

ButlerFord45 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 24, 2004, 05:51:09 PM »

CRC
Lectra-Motive
Electric Parts Cleaner
Distributed by NAPA
Is what I have in the house at the moment. I picked it up because they only had one can of Break and Electric Motor Cleaner, and I use a lot of that at the shop.

myronman, I definately agree with you about the dry gun the military seems to want.

Savage · « **Reply #17 on:** February 25, 2004, 04:56:29 PM »

1911s get detail stripped at least once a year. This is a good time to check for wear and breakage. Glocks detail stripped every other cleaning (because they're so easy) and carried as duty weapons. Revolvers detailed whenever I shoot them enough that I think they need it.
Savage

Savage · « **Reply #18 on:** February 25, 2004, 05:01:27 PM »

1911s get detail stripped at least once a year. This is a good time to check for wear and breakage. Glocks detail stripped every other cleaning (because they're so easy) and carried as duty weapons. Revolvers detailed whenever I shoot them enough that I think they need it.
Savage

mec · « **Reply #19 on:** March 08, 2004, 09:42:34 AM »

That's kind of a bad word. I know because, exhibiting Junior Highschool immaturity, I took to refering to the Smith and Wesson Sigma as the"Smegma" I did this will discussing upcoming articles with a new gun magazine editor who was all excited because he had received a mass-invitation to visit the major factories in the Mass. area called "Gun Valley."

He came back telling about his visit to S&W where he noticed outloud that there was an area with the sign "Sigma" over it and a bunch of crates labled "Austria" He mentioned this saying that Smith must be getting the Sigma from the same people who manufacture Glocks. His tour guide replied. " The Visit, The Tour and the Interview are OVER!"

Througout this narrative, I noticed that he had invariably used the word "Smegma" in place of "Sigma" and I strongly suspect that he did the same thing while visiting the S&W plant. This no doubt had something to do with the upsettedness of the Smith executive.