Author Topic: Casting round balls (Read 2125 times)

wormbobskey · « **on:** May 27, 2013, 06:03:02 AM »

I recently picked up a TC pa hunter with a 1:66 twist and want to cast my own round balls. I have a round ball and Lee bullet mold, just no knowledge of what it takes to melt and cast my own. Whats the best type of lead to use, hard or soft? Whats the best way to melt the lead. Any information you guys can provide will be appreceiated. Worm

Hellgate · « **Reply #1 on:** May 27, 2013, 07:39:01 AM »

I do or did all my casting either outdoors (under a cover) or in the garage with the door open for good ventilation. For small amounts of shooting you can just heat the lead (SOFT for all muzzle loading projectiles. Round balls can be a little harder but may not be as accurate as dead soft lead) in a small cast iron skillet or pot on an electric burner and use a long handled spoon for a dipper. If you want higher quantity and quality, get a LEE 10 or 20 lb bottom pour lead pot. I have both and use the 10# for small lots and the 20# for marathon castings using a gang mold (4 or 6 cavities) and crank out 600-1000 balls in a morning. A wooden dowel works fine to whack the sprue cutter. A smidge of wax makes a good flux.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #2 on:** May 27, 2013, 07:47:02 AM »

Could I use old sinkers that I used for cat fishing? When you say wax for fluxing what do you mean? Wax in the mould?

Hellgate · « **Reply #3 on:** May 27, 2013, 08:02:35 AM »

Old sinkers cast of soft lead would be fine. Wheel weights are too hard for ML bullets but could be used for the RB if no other source was available. A 1/4" round blob of parrafin (candle wax) or 1/2" of a small birthday cake candle works for me. You can let theflux smoke or light is with a match to burn off the smoke (I prefer to burn the flux while it is smoky). You might want to get a hold of an old Lyman Cast Bullets manual or even some primers (basic info) from the Cast Bullet assn:
http://www.castbulletassoc.org/
or maybe the Cast Boolits website:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php

It looks like you are starting from scratch here. These organizations (especially the CBA) should have a lot of basic info there.

pastorp · « **Reply #4 on:** May 27, 2013, 03:22:15 PM »

Worm,

Before you do anything buy the Lyman casting manual or Veral Smiths cast bullet booklet from him here on GBO in the cast bullet section. We also have a question forum for casting bullets.

Hope this helps.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #5 on:** May 27, 2013, 04:29:06 PM »

Thank you gentlemen, I appreciate the help.

Ranger99 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 27, 2013, 06:16:22 PM »

if you use a cast iron cooking vessel
for lead melting (i do) be sure to
mark it some way ( engraver- stamps)
so that someone down the line doesn't
inadvertently use it again for cooking.
or if you decide not to use it anymore,
bust a chunk out of it with a hammer.

Victor3 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 28, 2013, 12:38:16 AM »

If you don't want to make a big investment up front and are just going to pour a few at a time, you could get one of these and melt your lead in it with a propane torch...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-lead-dipper-CASTING-LADLE-1-5-fluid-oz-8-oz-lead-/200913223232?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec75c7e40

It will still be a useful tool later on if you decide to get a pot.

45-70.gov · « **Reply #8 on:** May 28, 2013, 01:02:09 AM »

anothe life lost to the attiction of casting

get a LEE 20 pound bottom poor pot......soft lead is best

flintlock · « **Reply #9 on:** May 28, 2013, 05:01:29 AM »

All I bought were a couple of bag molds and a ladle when I started 25 or so years ago...I caught the Lee .530 mold on sale a couple of years ago for $14, so I picked one up...

Recently, I bought a stainless steel cup from WalMart to replace my soup can...

I made about 50 .530 balls a couple of weekends ago, need to make about a hundred .390s next time...

I just use a Coleman, back the truck up under the car port and have a go at it...

Hellgate · « **Reply #10 on:** May 28, 2013, 06:10:41 AM »

Flintlock,

I used to smelt scrap lead in a coffee can over a propane stove but not all coffee & big soup cans are still sealed once the soldered seam has melted out. There's nothing more annoying than the drip, drip, drip, of a leaky can.

pastorp · « **Reply #11 on:** May 28, 2013, 06:34:20 AM »

Lyman made a small cast iron pot to use on camp stoves years ago and a small ladel with a pour hole made of cast iron as well. That's what I started with.

If I was only casting for a muzzleloader I would still be using it but I moved on to a Potters bottom pour electric pot when I started casting for pistol shooting.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #12 on:** May 28, 2013, 03:47:47 PM »

I think I have been over thinking this. I have a couple hundred 44 rounds balls as well as some 45's. All I really need is something to use to pour the molten lead into the mold. Still don't understand what the wax as flux is for or where I apply it. Do I use it in the mold to keep the lead from sticking to much? Do I need to pre-heat the mold before I pour the lead in or does it even matter? Thanks again for all the information.

flintlock · « **Reply #13 on:** May 28, 2013, 04:09:14 PM »

The wax is put in the lead when melted to help burn off impurities called flux...Some of this can be spooned off and discarded as well...Start with a piece about the size of those .44 caliber balls...I use SnoSeal for this as I also use it for boots and as patch lube...

flintlock · « **Reply #14 on:** May 28, 2013, 04:13:58 PM »

Don't worry about preheating the mould, the hot lead will do that...The first few balls will come out wrinkled but after the mould heats up they will be smooth ...

wormbobskey · « **Reply #15 on:** May 28, 2013, 04:31:16 PM »

Appreciate it sir.

Hellgate · « **Reply #16 on:** May 28, 2013, 04:33:27 PM »

You drop the flux onto the molten lead in the pot to consolidate the impurities onto the surface so you can spoon them out. It will look like dirt floating on top of the shiny pool of lead. Scoop it out and toss it. I put it into a baby food jar and when full I throw the whole thing out in the trash.

I used a long handled iced tea spoon as my dipper for pouring lead into the mold. Wear gloves. The spoon handle gets hot.

You can use a graphite lube spray on the mold (when cold) as a release agent or with a very soft lead pencil you can color the inside of the mold cavity to apply graphite from the pencil to the mold to act as a release agent. Most people use a paper match and "smoke" the interior of the mold cavity to apply a small amount of soot to it as a release agent.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #17 on:** May 28, 2013, 05:10:56 PM »

How long should I wait before opening the mold?

Hellgate · « **Reply #18 on:** May 28, 2013, 07:59:53 PM »

When you see the sprue solidify and then change texture. Sorta like watching it freeze then develop a frost. It only takes a few seconds (3-5) for the hardening process to occur. As the mold heats up it will take more time for the lead to harden before you shear off the sprue and open the mold.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #19 on:** May 29, 2013, 04:27:43 PM »

Picked up a ladel today off ebay for under 10.00 shipped and have an old cast iron pot I can use to melt the lead. Think I'm in business now. Thanks again for all the help. Anymore suggestions and help will always be appreciated.

45-70.gov · « **Reply #20 on:** May 31, 2013, 12:16:08 PM »

Quote from: wormbobskey on May 28, 2013, 05:10:56 PM

How long should I wait before opening the mold?

watch for the shiney to ''frost over''......wait a second and strick it off
too soon and it smears......too late and you need to stike harder and more often

i put little wads of paper in the cavities.....for the first few poors
they smoke in the mold and i throw them into the pot to smoke it too
the hotter it gets the more it smokes
the smoke on the mold surfaces helps it to not stick
the paper thrown back in the pot works like flux,,,,,TO KEEP OXEGEN AWAY FROM THE ALLOY

wormbobskey · « **Reply #21 on:** May 31, 2013, 12:24:23 PM »

Would used trap wax work to flux the lead? I have a 5 or 6 quart pot I use to wax my traps every year. The wax is a dark color from the trap dye. Will this hurt anything? I should be up and running on casting some bullets this upcoming week. Got the pa hunter today and man it sure is purty. Can't wait to shoot some of my own cast bullets. Thanks for all the information, it is truly appreciated. Worm

45-70.gov · « **Reply #22 on:** May 31, 2013, 12:28:31 PM »

i have been casting a long time........25 years ??
wasn't until last year i got a turkey ....WITH A 44 I CAST MYSELF.....it is a good feeling

[got lots of armadillos and possums but they don't count

Bubber · « **Reply #23 on:** June 01, 2013, 05:51:19 PM »

Quote from: wormbobskey on May 31, 2013, 12:24:23 PM

Would used trap wax work to flux the lead? I have a 5 or 6 quart pot I use to wax my traps every year. The wax is a dark color from the trap dye. Will this hurt anything? I should be up and running on casting some bullets this upcoming week. Got the pa hunter today and man it sure is purty. Can't wait to shoot some of my own cast bullets. Thanks for all the information, it is truly appreciated. Worm

Old trap wax is exactly what I use. Chop the black stuff off the bottom of the block befor the traps get waxed in the spring. Anything that could possibly be in there will still float on the lead. Some people use old engin oil. Just somthing to burn the impurities out.

I pick up a lot of jacketed pistol bullets from a dirt bank near home. When I get a coffee can full of them I throw them in an old cast iron laddle a little at a time and melt the lead out. Spoon the empty jackets out and throw more in. Since the lead coming out is dirty with dirt and other organics, when I get a laddle full I flux the crap out of it with the wax, a couple time if needed, and pour it into an old steel 4" pipe fitting I use as an ingot mold and start the process over. When I need a few more roundballs I just grab a few of my ingots, drop them in the melt pot and make a pile of pretty little spheres.

It isn't hard or complicated. Treat the melt like you would a bucket of melted trap wax. Moisture is bad and avoid making it splash. The lead will do the same thing wax will and it is a lot hotter. The first 3-5 balls will look bad untill everything gets hot. If you screw one up, throw it back in the melt and procede untill you get a system that works for you.

This winter take your smokepole out and call in a coyote and shoot it with one of your home cast balls. It is very satifying.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #24 on:** June 03, 2013, 11:18:25 AM »

I used an old tin can I use for annealing nuts I build snares with. Once I got the lead melted down I added a chunk of wax to it and skimmed off the debri from the top. I cast about 30 round balls yesterday and was very happy with the results. I bought 10 pounds of print lead off of ebay and should be casting again by the weekend. Haven't got to shoot the T/C yet, but will plan a trip to my buddies soon to shoot it. The can is a little to small for my liking and I wasn't set up right to be very comfortable, but will plan better in the future. If all turns out well I plan to cast some Lee bullets as well. Thanks for all the information.

Winter Hawk · « **Reply #25 on:** June 03, 2013, 05:11:51 PM »

Mike,

I need to cast some .490 balls here in the next couple of days. Give me a call and maybe we can get together and do a bunch. Great deal on the PA Hunter, you lucky dog! I had one years ago and stupidly traded it off. It was probably the best M/L rifle I have had. Is yours flint? When I bought mine, that was all that they made, designed for Pennsylvania's flint only deer season. I understand that they later made some with percussion locks is why I ask.

-Kees-

Victor3 · « **Reply #26 on:** June 04, 2013, 01:00:51 AM »

Quote from: wormbobskey on June 03, 2013, 11:18:25 AM

I used an old tin can I use for annealing nuts I build snares with. Once I got the lead melted down I added a chunk of wax to it and skimmed off the debri from the top. I cast about 30 round balls yesterday and was very happy with the results. I bought 10 pounds of print lead off of ebay and should be casting again by the weekend. Haven't got to shoot the T/C yet, but will plan a trip to my buddies soon to shoot it. The can is a little to small for my liking and I wasn't set up right to be very comfortable, but will plan better in the future. If all turns out well I plan to cast some Lee bullets as well. Thanks for all the information.

If by "print lead" you mean linotype, I wouldn't use it for casting BP bullets. Balls are okay but linotype is way too hard for anything with an expanding skirt.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #27 on:** June 05, 2013, 03:35:08 PM »

Hey Kees, anytime you want to come over we'll fire up the propane stove and start casting. I cast just over 100 round balls the other day as well as a few lee bullets. Still not sure how to find out what the weight is for them maxi-type bullets. The rifle is percussion and has the round to octangnal barrel. She sure is purty too. Jerry here in town told me he has plenty of softer type lead if I want to trade the linotype lead I bought off of ebay. Aside from just playing around with the lee mold I only planned of casting round balls so I may keep the lead I have coming. It should be here Thursday or Friday. Like said earlier today Kees your always welcome to come over and we'll cast a bunch of bullets. Aside from picking up some pillow ticking for patches I have everything I need to do some shooting as well.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #28 on:** June 08, 2013, 03:52:25 PM »

Got the linotype lead the other day and fired up the propane stove. Won't be buying anymore of that stuff. Definitely had a lot of nasty debris in it and there was a layer that was all clumped together that I had to skim off before I could get to the molten lead underneath. Is this typical of that type of lead or was there something I was doing wrong. The round balls also had a purple cast to them. Is this from the ink? I've cast a couple hundred so far and it has gotten a lot easier. Now all I need is some decent lead and I'll be good to go.