Author Topic: Ultrahunter laminate stock stain (Read 1034 times)

Tractorsaw1 · « **on:** May 28, 2013, 02:19:43 AM »

I picked up a target varmit forend from gsi & I am ready to apply a finish. I was wondering if anyone has tried to match the stain on the cinnamon laminate thumbhole butstock? I did a test in the barrel channel of poly & it is too light. I did some searching here but didn't really see anyone trying to match the stain that comes on these stocks. Thanks I will post up some pictures when complete.

Dinny · « **Reply #1 on:** May 28, 2013, 04:16:36 PM »

There may not be any stain on them, it just may be the natural color coming through a clearish finish. That's the way my blonde laminates are.

Thanks, Dinny

Tractorsaw1 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 29, 2013, 12:59:14 AM »

Thanks Dinny, thats what I was hoping for, but it has some type of stain. I didn't get a chance to take picture last night, but the poly didn't get any darker after 24 hours. I guess I am going to try a walnut type stain although I am don't have a lot of "test" areas left.

HWB13 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 29, 2013, 02:10:23 AM »

You may have to mix your own. I use min-wax stains. Back in the days when I used to do contracting I had to mix a stain so a set of antique doors all matched after repairs. Just make sure the base stains is mixed real well before you start. All my stain cans have nuts and bolts in the bottom so when they are spun all the pigment comes off the bottom and gets mixed into the oil. Test on another board. Use hard wood if you have it or if you have to you can use a clean pine board just remember that the differnt woods absorb differntly. get it close then test on the channel. You might start with the gunstock stain it is probally closes to the color your looking for.

moto357 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 29, 2013, 02:15:38 AM »

seems to me those varmit forends from GSI are a bit on the long side, I cut close to two inches off mine I think. not apples to apples but mine is the black laminate and it doesn't match the thumbhole black laminate perfectly. my guess is they get their laminates from someplace different?

good luck and don't forget, we like pictures

oldsoldja · « **Reply #5 on:** May 29, 2013, 02:29:15 AM »

occasionally i do some matching of wood colors for myself or others in their houses, and ive found these 'dyes' from general to mix nice in clears. Its like candy apple color then, the more clear you put on the more color you get. Ive layered some also like a dark stain with a light dye on top gives a color that looks deep and some will wonder how you did it. http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/water-base-wood-stains-dyes/waterbase-wood-dye-stains#.UaXztkDVDyo

you can dye the wood and then clear or color your clear after. This is real nice for touchups too.

of course youll need oil based if your going that route.

these photos are of generals waterbased colors mixed in minwax polycrylic waterbased clear. Pretty tough stuff. Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish[/font][/color]

cwlongshot · « **Reply #6 on:** May 29, 2013, 03:40:33 AM »

To the best of my knoledge there is NO stain on any of the laminated stocks. Just finish.

You can get a deeper color by using different finishes. Poly, especially water based poly changes the woods color the least. The oil poly will be deeper.
Personally I do t like poly for my gun stocks. I like linseed, Lin speed, Tru oil or tung oils. All of those will darken as they are applied and multiple coats will be needed and will darken a bit everytime.

CW

Tractorsaw1 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 29, 2013, 05:13:00 AM »

Thanks for more input guys. I will try the oil type finishes. I will post up some pictures tonight of what I am working with. As far as the forend length, I liked the fact it was longer & had more of a positive finger groove, which is what led me to that one to start with. This is a 24" barrel & would look to big on a 22" or shorter. I have a lot of time hand working this thing at this point to not get the finish to be at least close & believe me the wood is not sanded perfect. I wasn't real hip on finishing a stock also & I am glad I didn't buy both even though that would of been the best match - lot more to sand on. Thanks again

LaOtto222 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 29, 2013, 05:58:01 AM »

You might try to thin the Poly urethane with 50% mineral spirits. It will penetrate the laminated wood better and possibly darken it a little more. Poly Urethane generally gives a "golden" hue to the wood rather than darken. I bought my fore ends through H&R and they matched the Ultra butt stock perfectly. Just some random thoughts. My avatar has the Ultra stock and fore end.

Good Luck and Good Shooting

Tractorsaw1 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 30, 2013, 01:12:17 PM »

Ok i finally got the pictures. Do you guys thank that true oil can darken it enough? These pictures are not the greatest

HWB13 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 30, 2013, 03:15:18 PM »

It's a tough call, I don't think so

cwlongshot · « **Reply #11 on:** May 30, 2013, 03:20:52 PM »

Quote from: Tractorsaw1 on May 30, 2013, 01:12:17 PM

Ok i finally got the pictures. Do you guys thank that true oil can darken it enough? These pictures are the greatest

TEST IT!!! Under the barrel where it will not be sceen....

CW

HWB13 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 30, 2013, 03:53:06 PM »

We don't do thumbholes here, my wife is right handed but left eye dominate and shots lefty, but I do like the color of the stock and the shape of the fore end. GOOD LUCK

Tractorsaw1 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 31, 2013, 01:34:15 AM »

ok, I will need to sand out the poly in the barrel channel & test it. Thanks for the input. I am assuming after a few coats in the barrel channel it will be decision time again?

Tractorsaw1 · « **Reply #14 on:** May 31, 2013, 06:24:14 PM »

I picked up a birchwood casey stock finishing kit on the way home. This is the first coat of stain, I think it is pretty close, may need another coat tomorrow, will see. The walnut stain in the kit is a concentrate, wow I could do probably 10 full length stocks with that stuff. There is some grain that stood up Ill have to steel wool down.

theratdog · « **Reply #15 on:** May 31, 2013, 07:32:34 PM »

i have used the birch wood water base stain works real well and does not effect finish and drying time.

Tractorsaw1 · « **Reply #16 on:** June 01, 2013, 02:17:47 AM »

Wonder how many nuts in the bottle? Man it sure is some black stuff. I used some years ago to finish a muzzleloader kit my wife got me. It is funny how that black stuff can make a stock brown. Did you let the stain dry 24 hours before the tru oil?

HWB13 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 01, 2013, 05:31:25 AM »

if it is water based 24 hours, oil I wipe dry and let stand at least 12 hours. Seperate the first coat oil because you will get stain to raise into the finish. you dont want to contaminate the rest of the oil.

Tractorsaw1 · « **Reply #18 on:** June 01, 2013, 06:52:46 AM »

Do I need to wait 24 hours if I am going to apply more stain? I don't know that it is dark enough yet?

HWB13 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 01, 2013, 03:19:57 PM »

normally a couple of hours between is fine.

Tractorsaw1 · « **Reply #20 on:** June 15, 2013, 05:05:47 AM »

Well it is not an exact match, but close enough for me. It has been a slow go on all the true oil coats. Think I am at coat 7 or 8. After the second coat of stain & the first coat of true oil it was too dark. Some light 400 grit sand paper really made the laminate stand out. How long does everyone let the last coat dry before trying to dull down the glossy sheen? WD40 & oooo steel wool treatment. Is 24 hours good before trying to dull it down or should I wait longer? If it stays sunny today I will try & get it out in the sun this afternoon. Last true oil coat went on last night. Thanks

gcrank1 · « **Reply #21 on:** June 15, 2013, 07:59:45 AM »

I want last top coat to have a good week in dry conditions before even thinking about going at it. The longer you have the harder it will get and avoid the dreaded 'soft underneath and start over' syndrome.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #22 on:** June 15, 2013, 08:10:23 AM »

I like at least a week and a month ain't too long!!!!

CW

HWB13 · « **Reply #23 on:** June 16, 2013, 01:40:24 AM »

I agree with CW and Crank, give it time to harden. But I am looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Tractorsaw1 · « **Reply #24 on:** June 17, 2013, 01:46:34 AM »

It matches better when it is dulled down. The one picture seems like the gloss really makes it look a lot lighter, but its pretty close.

Tractorsaw1 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 17, 2013, 01:47:14 AM »

2nd picture