Subject: TD Load data, Lube Recipe
Hi All,
As promised here are some chrono numbers (ref: prev posted load details)
.sorry this took so long
. been unavailable.
Swiss 2f/RCBS 500BPS
10 shots
Avg Vel 1173
ES 10.09
SD 3.46
GOEX Cart/Lym 457125
Avg Vel 1150
ES 11.34
SD 4.0
Two fouling shots were fired then deleted from chrono and the strings of ten fired
.blow tube was used. Expect vel increase of about 20-25 fps from clean bore. And just to clarify things, the purpose of these loads is to produce the most accurate straight BP target load. Im not trying to duplicate the Govt issue round. Spence Wolf already did that in his book which I have. Highly recommended by the way! If I could get my desired results without a blow tube I would be thrilled as I consider the blow tube a necessary nuisance for precision target work. I dont like it but it works.
The Sw2F (Not 1 ½
. I want to be clear on this) in my experience is a fairly hot powder. Definitely more so than the GOEX Cart lot I have. I have not tried Sw 1 ½ in the trapdoor. I did try Sw2F with the 457125 and vel was approaching 1300 fps with unacceptable ES. Unnecessary recoil too. Vertical stringing at the longer distances. Good accuracy out to 200m though and would probably be a real nice hunting load.
And Now
. The Lube:
Some who read this may never have played kitchen chemist with lubes and I think some cautions are appropriate. Hot liquid waxes will burn us humans and if spilled on the heat source will burn very vigorously so use some common sense
think through what you are about to do to eliminate harsh surprises. Mix the ingredience in a Pyrex type measuring cup that is large enough to contain the mix when it saponifies as the Murphys Oil Soap is added. This is a chemical reaction with lots of bubbling, foaming and additional heat produced. Melt the waxes in a proper glass container(s) placed in a pan of near boiling water. Dont melt the waxes in a pan directly on the heat source. You may start a fire! Pour the Murphys in slowly and this is best done for safetys sake somewhere NOT over or next to the heat source
. there might be a boil-over.
OK
.
In a sufficiently large Pyrex type measuring cup
.put the following three substances.
4oz (liquid volume/melted) reasonably clean Beeswax
2oz Bayberry Wax
2oz Neats-foot Oil (Not Neats-foot Compound)
Stir
.then:
SLOWLY add 2oz (volume) of Murphys Oil Soap
. The reaction will start.
When it stops and the mix is still liquid add 8cc of dry powdered graphite. I used two dips of a Lee 4cc Powder Dipper for this. Stir as the lube solidifies to keep the graphite powder evenly distributed.
I think it best to let the lube cure for a day or so to make sure the reaction is really over. The stuff seems to stay warm quite a bit longer than expected which to me means the reaction is not completely over. The finished lube is about the consistency of modeling clay and can be rolled into a sausage sized log that is easily stuffed into a lube/sizer
no hole needed like in the sticks of commercially bought lube. I dont think JR1 will work as a pan lube. Ive never pan lubed but the word is that saponified lubes dont remelt properly. JR1 is my initials and the 1 to designate my first homemade keeper lube that seems to work as well as SPG
at least it does in the conditions I normally shoot in.
I should add that I use a compatible bore dressing made of equal parts beeswax, Bayberry Wax, and Neatsfoot Oil (NO Murphys Oil Soap)
its like Bore Butter in consistency. Add a bit of graphite powder while still liquid
. whatever looks good.
I also clean the bore with water to which a small amount of Murphys Oil Soap has been added. A few damp patches, a few dry patches and then a patch of the bore dressing run back and forth. Just before shooting Ill run a dry patch through the bore to remove the excess making sure there is no slippery stuff in the chamber area. When storing the rifle Ill run some Break Free thru the bore.
Have Fun,
Hoppy
