Author Topic: Glueing on sights  (Read 739 times)

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Offline WoodsRoamer

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Glueing on sights
« on: June 15, 2013, 04:01:32 AM »
Thinking of putting some rifle sights on my 20 Gauge Pardner for better slug accuracy. I've searched the forum for info on this and  found that some were gluing them on with different types of epoxies, The threads I came across the guy's had just put them on but didn't  have much testing time on them. I'm wondering for those of you that have done this how has it held up over time and what was the preferred adhesive. Thanks

Offline woodsrunner

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Re: Glueing on sights
« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2013, 04:28:12 AM »
woodsroamer--I've put a set of muzzleloader sights on a 12 ga. barrel. I used J-B Weld. The sights are plastic of some sort, so there isn't much weight, but they have held up to 3 1/2" loads(a few) and a lot of 3" loads.


Worked for me. Good luck--woodsrunner
Good Hunting--Woodsrunner

Offline scratchmark

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Re: Glueing on sights
« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2013, 02:13:50 PM »
I put a ghost ring sight on a 3 1/2 in 12ga barrel and have killed two birds with it so far without any issues. ive got a 12ga tracker two barrel that JASONF had put ironsights and a scope base on and ive had greal luck with it too. Gorillo glue epoxy 3500lb strength and sanded bluing off where epoxy was to be used.
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Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Glueing on sights
« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2013, 02:21:18 PM »
Metal prep is the key to working with adhesives, sand both mating surfaces to rough them up, degrease and it will work fine.  ;)

Tim
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Offline tmccray45

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Re: Glueing on sights
« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2013, 04:46:18 PM »
Quickdtoo is correct about this one.  (Of course, he usually IS correct . . .)   

I put a rear sight on my 20 gauge, using JB Weld.  I carefully scuffed up the area on the barrel that was going to contact the sight, scuffed up the underside of the sight, applied the Weld, and voila!, it worked.  As memory serves, I used something like 60 -120 grit sandpaper.   Been there for a couple of years.
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Offline WoodsRoamer

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Re: Glueing on sights
« Reply #5 on: June 16, 2013, 02:19:50 AM »
Thanks guys, just the responses I was hoping for. When your gluing on your sights did you use some sort of clamp to secure them in place while drying ?
Thanks again, gonna be a good summer project !

Offline tmccray45

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Re: Glueing on sights
« Reply #6 on: June 16, 2013, 02:27:01 AM »
I don't remember exactly, but pressure might have been applied by using a "rubber band" made out of an old inner tube.   On the other hand, it might have been a c-clamp with light pressure.   I just don't remember.
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Offline bilmac

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Re: Glueing on sights
« Reply #7 on: June 16, 2013, 04:40:14 AM »
I've used JB Weld to put Contender sights on a 20ga shotgun. I didn't clamp it because I bore sighted it as the glue hardened and didn't want to move the sights even a hair. I also glued the front sight on a Marlin 45-70. It has been there for a long time and shot over a 100 rds.

Offline WoodsRoamer

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Re: Glueing on sights
« Reply #8 on: June 16, 2013, 05:32:39 AM »
Thanks again tmccray45 and bilmac.  I'm gonna start looking for a set of sights, any suggestions welcome.

Offline Dinny

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Re: Glueing on sights
« Reply #9 on: June 16, 2013, 09:10:25 AM »
I epoxied a front sight back on my shortened 45-70 barrel using the Goop Automotive Epoxy recommended in the FAQs for adhering barrel shims. The metal was prepped as listed above and the sight held in place by a rubber band wrapped around a few times. I hope to test it with some stout loads soon, so far it holds on just fine for TD loads.

Thanks, Dinny
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Offline bilmac

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Re: Glueing on sights
« Reply #10 on: June 16, 2013, 02:22:36 PM »
There are excellent sights on TC Contender pistols that most people remove to mount a scope. I would try to find a TC website and see if someone would sell a set.

Offline gcrank1

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Re: Glueing on sights
« Reply #11 on: June 19, 2013, 01:14:10 PM »
Stick it on with your choice of adhesive and wrap with black plastic electricians tape carefully from the top down using even pressure on each side so it doesnt shift then come back up and over with a little tension, then let it dry twice as long as the package says before thinking about messing with it.
Works for me.
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