Author Topic: Advice on finishing a stock (Read 543 times)

Pinkerton · « **on:** February 23, 2004, 12:55:12 PM »

I just bought this months special @ gunstocksinc, fiddle back maple. After sanding what should I put on the wood to bring out the grain and protect the wood without making the coloring of the wood to dark?

Thanks all.

onesonek · « **Reply #1 on:** February 23, 2004, 03:39:30 PM »

I prefer an oil finish myself. Either 100% Tung oil, or Danish oil. Some say Tung is best, but I'm not so sure. To me Danish is just as durable, and somewhat easier to work with. While, Tung has more luster. Tung is generally more costly( be sure it's pure with no additives). Tung I'm not sure of, but Danish comes in shades varying, from almost clear to almost black. The nice thing about oil is , minor dings can sanded and oil touched up, with out any change in appearance. I usually do a light restore coat every year.

Bullseye · « **Reply #2 on:** February 23, 2004, 04:38:54 PM »

I just finished one of their walnut stocks. I stained it, then used brush on polyurethane for a couple coats and then put on two coats of wipe on polyurethane.

Catfish · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2004, 11:50:01 AM »

For an easy to apply and rugged finish that looks pretty goog too, I like Polyurethane. It`s the easiest to apply and probibly the most durable.

Pinkerton · « **Reply #4 on:** February 24, 2004, 02:16:26 PM »

Thanks everybody, I appreciate the help. One More question, would a combination of light oil like tung or danish first and covered with polyurethane be a good way to go?

Thanks

Bullseye · « **Reply #5 on:** February 24, 2004, 04:49:30 PM »

I am not sure you would want to mix them. I think I would go one way or the other.

onesonek · « **Reply #6 on:** February 24, 2004, 04:50:13 PM »

If you want a shiny stock, yes. But for weather protection, it's not needed. Tung or Danish oil (NOT linseed or any linseed based product, anybody tells you linseed is ok, needs to be slapped silly than they already are. It don't have any place on gun wood) buffed with a terry towel has a warm luster that brings out the grain. Try it, if you want it to have more shine. Apply urethane after 72 hours drying time. These oils actually form a deep seal, and the only thing that I know of that is better in protection is epoxy over oil. I just don't trust anything else when it comes to moisture.

stratocaster · « **Reply #7 on:** February 25, 2004, 02:52:37 AM »

I have finished many stocks with a combination of modified tung oil and poly. Mix 3 parts mineral spirits to one part tung oil. It will be real thin, but that is what you want. Brush this on with a sponge brush. This will really bring out the grain. You can do more than 1 coat if you wish. Once this is FULLY dry, I usually use Minwax spray on poly. Spray a couple of coats. Once dry, rub it down with varying grades of steel wool starting with 0 and ending up with 0000. This will give a real nice mirror like base. Do the above 2 or 3 more times. Next use Minwax wipe on poly for 5 - 10 coats. Use 0000 steel wool in-between each coat. Don't forget to wipe down the stock with a tac cloth before apply the next layer of poly.

Flash · « **Reply #8 on:** February 25, 2004, 04:16:05 AM »

I guess that I should be slapped silly since I've been using linseed oil for the past 30 years. When ever I buy an old "Shooter", it gets stripped and coated with boiled linseed oil. I don't like my guns shining like a new penny but I do like the hardening protection that linseed provides.

onesonek · « **Reply #9 on:** February 25, 2004, 02:37:19 PM »

Well no direct offense or attack Flash, and with all due respect, linseed does not "cure" like Danish or Tung. According to Mfgr's, linseed never completely dries and continues penetrate and actually can soften wood. That last sentence is out of an old stockmaker supply catalog. The slapped silly part is a quote from my great-uncle, whom was a gunsmith and stockmaker his whole life. A career that started before the 270 was a glint in Winchester's eye. While technology has changed in how these oil are produced. Their chemical make-up has not.
I found alot of this out, when my G-uncle dicovered I refinished an old 22, using linseed. His words were, "darn boy didn't they teach you anything woodshop" .
Well, as I said, no offense meant. Just stating the words of old stockmaker, which I have adhered to.

Flash · « **Reply #10 on:** February 25, 2004, 03:13:50 PM »

Actually, woodshop is where I learned to use linseed oil and when I shared the new discovery with my dad, I learned that he had been using it on his gunstocksas well. I will dispute the softening effect since it hardens like a rock on the top of the can and around the lid. I need pliers to open it.