use lure to make them attracted to an area, but keep in mind that the concept of "luring" works in same ways as it does for foothold trapping, the idea is to make them step on a certain little section of geography, right over your trap pan.
trail/blind snaring involves setting loop size and height based on how that animal would be moving through a particular geography, with its head up or down, etc.
If you add a drop of certain lure to a weed stem at their nose level, you have to take into consideration that you have redirected their attention, their nose, which of course is on the end of their face and that is generally the part you want entering the snare loop "first".
Putting lure up high, especially a call-type lure, so that the scent is dispersed in such a way that the animal stretches upward its nose to detect the source, direction, etc. will definitely impact how that animal moves through your snare.
In the case of a large bait station, their is plenty of food-type odors, plus urine and other gland odors from other visitors, etc. but the central focus is that large bait pile. I would think an animals nose and face would pretty much be facing straight on toward that attractor on its approach.
Squirting urine on the ground (a few drops) would make the animal drop its head and nose lower to trail this scent, and the loop height would need to be adjusted accordingly...but would certainly work as well.
One benefit of luring is that you momentarily focus the animal's attention on the lure and not so much on the steel loop in its path.
One drawback can be that redirecting its focus on this odor can also cause that animal to change its head position, its stride, etc. and you really have to consider those factors as well.
I have snared successfully with and without lure or bait, and both have merit in certain situations, given the above adjustments to keep in mind.
Jim-NE
