Author Topic: 35 remington to 358 winchester (Read 2000 times)

littledog · « **on:** June 29, 2013, 11:55:25 AM »

I found a 35 Remington / 444 Marlin combo for $270.00 with free shipping I have read where the 35 R can be reamed to 358 Winchester or 35 whelen I understand the reaming part but does the extractor need changed for the new caliber can someone recommend a good gunsmith remarking the caliber is important to me my family pass down their guns I don’t want a great grandchild getting hurt some day As I understand 358 win brass can be made by fire forming 308 brass is that right?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #1 on:** June 29, 2013, 12:32:03 PM »

CW's 35 Rem rechamber to 356 Win(rimmed 358 Win) by hand is in the FAQs, lots of details there to be read, no need to send to a smith.

I have a set of steel stamps for rent(same as the reamers) if you want to mark it yourself. 308 Win brass works fine for the 358, the 35 Rem extractor can be modified or you can order a 30-06/308/243 extractor from H&R or Numrich if you don't want to mess with it.

Tim

petemi · « **Reply #2 on:** June 29, 2013, 12:48:43 PM »

I can't recommend a gunsmith, but along with several other members here I have a .356/.358 Handi. 4D Reamer Rentals, a sponsor here, has the reamer. With the .35, you can do it by hand at home. cwlongshot did that and I am sure will share his experience. Mine was reamed from a .357 Magnum. The extractor used was a slightly modified .30-30 extractor. Done properly, the handi will extract and shoot both .356 and .358 Winchester. The .356 head spaces on the rim and the .358 on the shoulder. The beauty of the Handi is you can load pointed bullets, load the .356 to .358 levels and load them both to close to .35 Whelen. Yes you can make either brass easily from .307 and .308. Do a search here, and I'm sure Dinny and jeepmann1948 will be along also to help. Along with cw, they have a lot of experience at this. I almost for got to mention, the .356/.358 is one of my favorite rifles. I cut mine to 18 inches and put it on a laminated stock for a little extra weight. The stout loads I shoot pack a punch both ways

Tim might be able to help you with identifying the barrel caliber. He did my .445 from .44. Oops, I see you have. Thanks Tim.

I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

Pete

cudatruck · « **Reply #3 on:** June 29, 2013, 01:06:45 PM »

around here new rifles are goin for about 329.00! sending a frame in to have a new barrel fitted is about 160.00? so any way you look at it that rifle is a steal and you are getting a free barrel with it!

Dinny · « **Reply #4 on:** June 30, 2013, 08:02:32 AM »

I really like 35cal rifles. I have a few 357 Maxis, a 356Win and a 35 Whelen. The 356/358Win is a very capable, reasonable cartridge that will handle just about any NA animal when loaded right.

Thanks, Dinny

Couger · « **Reply #5 on:** July 01, 2013, 10:55:42 AM »

Can't add much that others haven't already said about the .35Rem and .358win especially.

Both are EXCELLENT whitetail and deep woods rounds!

Brass?

During normal years when tyrant-Obastid isn't in the Whitehouse and all ammo components are being bought before they land on a retail shelf,

Winchester makes annual runs of brass for the .358Win but also the .356Win!

Of course Remington also offers .35R and .358W brass .... in the form of ammo.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 31, 2014, 04:08:34 PM »

I know I'd be happy with 35 Rem and 444 as is.
I could load the 35Rem down to 38Spl or on up to full house and if I needed more thwackin' go to the 444, which could also be loaded down to 44Russian on up to top.
Those two and a 22LR and a scattergun would be the all round set.

ceadersavage2 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 31, 2014, 04:48:26 PM »

And I read some place on the 444 you can fired 44 mag in this Calibre .

quickdtoo · « **Reply #8 on:** January 31, 2014, 05:20:55 PM »

Quote from: ceadersavage2 on January 31, 2014, 04:48:26 PM

And I read some place on the 444 you can fired 44 mag in this Calibre .

You could at your own peril, the 444 isn't an extended 44 mag as many think, the case head is bigger.

Tim

Quote from: cowboyup453 on June 06, 2009, 08:37:37 AM

I found this pick a while back. This 44 mag was fired in a 444 marlin no by me though.

jeepmann1948 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 01, 2014, 01:19:45 AM »

This conversion has been discussed many times here in the past and probably more in the future.Personally I feel it is a worthy conversion for anyone wanting a medium bore hard hitting cartridge capable of taking anything in the lower 48 states and in the hands of a marksman I would include Alaska as well.
In my experience re-chambering Handi rifles should be done on a lathe with one exception, the 357 Maxi.H&R barrels are quite famous for being drilled off center from the factory.While this is usually not too big a problem it can be aggravated to a problem of extreme off center firing pin strikes an mis-firesby chambering it to a large cartridge. This can be corrected by centering the barrel in a lathe very easily, but not so easy doing it by hand.
I admire the guys that have successfully hand re-chambered their H&R's and toast their success, but I will continue to do mine with a lathe.
George

bucmeister · « **Reply #10 on:** February 02, 2014, 03:25:07 PM »

cwlongshot got a question for you.

In the thread where you chronicled the reaming of your 35Rem to 356/358 I am trying to figure out what was up with your tool setup when you used what looks like a socket and Phillips bit in the tap handle. Was it because the reamer square was to big to fit in your tap handle?

bucmeister · « **Reply #11 on:** February 02, 2014, 03:39:20 PM »

jeepmann1948,

You do make a good point about the firing pin being off center which was the case with the replacement barrel when I got my gun back from the factory after they fixed the trigger and replaced the scored barrel. It fires but is off center, however I don't know that there is much correction that could be accomplished going from 35Rem to 356/358. Have not paid close enough attention to see if it is high or low though it does appear to lock up square.

petemi · « **Reply #12 on:** February 03, 2014, 12:28:34 AM »

The firing pin strikes the primer dead center on only a few of my Handis. The rest are all somewhat off center. I had one that was way out on the rim of the primer. I swapped frames and it brought it almost to dead center.

Pete

bucmeister · « **Reply #13 on:** February 03, 2014, 01:54:47 AM »

petemi, Believe I had read that thread. Maybe as recently as yesterday because it is fresh in my memory.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2014, 02:01:48 AM »

Quote from: bucmeister on February 02, 2014, 03:25:07 PM

cwlongshot got a question for you.

In the thread where you chronicled the reaming of your 35Rem to 356/358 I am trying to figure out what was up with your tool setup when you used what looks like a socket and Phillips bit in the tap handle. Was it because the reamer square was to big to fit in your tap handle?

If I remember I did that to show different methods. I have a couple tap handles. My large one will accept .750.
When I am able I chuck the whole thing up in my drill press with a centering quill to keep things more square. While my press isn't that true. It's far better the. Free hand.

CW

cwlongshot · « **Reply #15 on:** February 03, 2014, 02:04:22 AM »

Quote from: jeepmann1948 on February 01, 2014, 01:19:45 AM

This conversion has been discussed many times here in the past and probably more in the future.Personally I feel it is a worthy conversion for anyone wanting a medium bore hard hitting cartridge capable of taking anything in the lower 48 states and in the hands of a marksman I would include Alaska as well.
In my experience re-chambering Handi rifles should be done on a lathe with one exception, the 357 Maxi.H&R barrels are quite famous for being drilled off center from the factory.While this is usually not too big a problem it can be aggravated to a problem of extreme off center firing pin strikes an mis-firesby chambering it to a large cartridge. This can be corrected by centering the barrel in a lathe very easily, but not so easy doing it by hand.
I admire the guys that have successfully hand re-chambered their H&R's and toast their success, but I will continue to do mine with a lathe.
George

Don't forget the 454 on a 45 colt or the 445 on a 44 mag. These are pretty much same same as 357 maxi on a 357 Magnum.

I agree ALL RE chambers will be better if done on a lathe. But some are not REQUIRED to be.

CW

petemi · « **Reply #16 on:** February 03, 2014, 03:12:50 AM »

Not all are done better on a lathe.....my first .357 Maxi was screwed up by a "gunsmith" on a lathe. Evidently, he had it chatter and chewed up the chamber. I sent it to Larry Trotter and he reamed it to .35 Rem. We did a three way swap and everyone was happy. That was a few years ago. If you can screw up a maxi re-chamber on a lathe, just think of the possibilities with a more serious re-bore or/re-chamber. None of my work went there again.

Pete

tom548 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 03, 2014, 03:40:24 AM »

Blaming the lathe is like blaming the gun when some one gets shot. I have a few barrels some one (different people) did by hand and all are egg shaped at the rear of the chamber. You need to really pay attention when using a lathe or by hand when reaming.
I bought the same combo and made the 356/358 conversion. It shoots great and is deadly on bear and deer. If you are going to shoot .358 win ammo them be carefull about how deep you ream the chamber, as too deep will cause miss fires.

hoytcanon · « **Reply #18 on:** February 03, 2014, 04:08:34 AM »

I have seen many chambers screwed up by a hand ream job... If using a live pilot reamer in a caliber that allows it to engage the bore prior to beginning the cut, you can be confident in a concentric, chatter-free cut... Examples would be the aforementioned .357 Max from .357 Mag, .445 SM from .44 RM, I would also include the K-H from Hornet. I would not consider the .358 from .35 Rem in this same category, I did one by hand with a square gauge on the shank and was not happy with the results... There is a fair amount of material that needs to be removed "before" the pilot engages the bore... My brass used in this gun cannot be chambered in any of my other .358's without full length sizing... I subsequently did a second .358 from .35 Rem on a lathe and was much more satisfied with the results... I can now use the brass in my .358 Handi, .358 BLR and .358 M77 AW. It is worth the extra time and/or expense to do it "right." IMO.

petemi · « **Reply #19 on:** February 03, 2014, 04:14:48 AM »

Yeah, that shoulder has got to be right there for the .358. jeepmann1948 did mine and it is perfect for both .356 and .358 shooting and extracting. He ain't a "Professional Gunsmith", but he's the best one I know. Locally, I have two "make believe" gunsmiths. I wouldn't trust either one to mount a scope correctly.

The Handi .356/.358 is a powerhouse. If you want or need to, you can push a bullet right up there with the .35 Whelen and .30-06/

http://www.leverguns.com/articles/paco/358_wcf.htm

Pete

bucmeister · « **Reply #20 on:** February 03, 2014, 07:48:15 AM »

Was able to come up with a couple hundred new in bag 356 brass back in late 2012 so prefer to set it up for that and will likely never mess with it as a 358 other than just to prove that it will work. I am getting 2300 fps with the Speer 180 fp out of the 35Rem so I doubt I will be pushing the pills much faster with it as a 358/358, I just want the rimmed round to fight against the ftf tendencies of the Handi platform.

No doubt it is not the lathe but the lathe operator. Even if the lathe is suspect the operator should still know not to use it.

bucmeister · « **Reply #21 on:** February 03, 2014, 07:56:19 AM »

Sounds like I need to shoot jeepman1948 a pm to discuss some arrangements. If memory serves he is in TX which means we are at least on the same end of the country (south). One reason I was looking forward to having the gentleman that passed away helping me do it mine was getting to see he shop and seeing the job done etc.

revbc · « **Reply #22 on:** February 03, 2014, 08:31:06 AM »

Buc,

What powder you using to get the 2300 in the 35. I've been playing with 4198 and have just gotten up in that range. Don't think I'm going to push it anymore.

My 356 goes plenty fast with 4895,

Trying to decide if I want to ream my new 35 to 356 or just keep it original.

bucmeister · « **Reply #23 on:** February 03, 2014, 09:16:38 AM »

It is RL7 if I am recalling correctly. It is some of the Super 35 loads that I came across a while back. If I did this correctly it should show in the attachment.

bucmeister · « **Reply #24 on:** February 03, 2014, 09:22:45 AM »

Also have an old Speer manual that shows a rather peppy load with RL-11 for the 35, but I don't remember how much powder or which bullet.

The Super 35 load is not showing any signs of pressure that I can tell. I am at the beginning load shown.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #25 on:** February 03, 2014, 09:35:29 AM »

Bobby, I dont remember which 35 you just got, 357Mag or 35Rem? With one already set up for some high performance you might want to consider the other dedicated to sub-sonics or cast bullet reduced velo loads while the other is the jacketed rock&roller?
Ive been having big fun with my 357Mag at sub-sonic as a walkabout gun even though I have some trials and notes into that seated out bullet to low end 357Max level. If I need/want more bean I can go to a 'bigger' cartridge.

revbc · « **Reply #26 on:** February 03, 2014, 10:12:54 AM »

It's a 35 Rem. Not a handi though............opps

gcrank1 · « **Reply #27 on:** February 03, 2014, 10:21:33 AM »

I forgive you

bucmeister · « **Reply #28 on:** February 03, 2014, 12:38:44 PM »

Quote from: revbc on February 03, 2014, 10:12:54 AM

It's a 35 Rem. Not a handi though............opps

Did you get one of the CVA Scout rifles in the 35 Rem?

revbc · « **Reply #29 on:** February 03, 2014, 05:49:49 PM »

That's what they say................but you know I must plead the 5th, don't want to loose the secret "handishake"