Author Topic: anneal temps  (Read 559 times)

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Offline thesalos

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anneal temps
« on: February 10, 2014, 12:48:51 AM »
What temp range, Do I use for .308 win? How much of the case needs to be annealed? I use the lead pot method.

Offline JB Weld

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Re: anneal temps
« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2014, 09:44:18 AM »
I do not know about the "lead pot method", so I won't comment on that.

I was taught to use a regular old plumbing torch to anneal the neck on bottle neck rifle casings, and this method needs to be done outside. 

Do this at your own risk ON CASES THAT ARE NOT PRIMED.
 
Set up your torch and have a catch bucket under the flame.

While holding the cartridge by the head (and perpendicular to the flame) rotate the neck of the cartridge in the flame until you just start to feel any heat. 

Drop the cartridge in the bucket.

The neck is now annealed.

It is simple, but it works.
"Captain, my religious belief teaches me to feel as safe in battle as in bed. God has fixed the time for my death. I do not concern myself about that, but to be always ready, no matter when it may overtake me. Captain, that is the way all men should live, and then all would be equally brave."  ~Stonewall Jackson~  24 July 1861

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Offline quickdtoo

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Re: anneal temps
« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2014, 12:42:38 PM »
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Offline black lab

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Re: anneal temps
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2014, 05:02:14 PM »
The Lyman 49th manual cautions against attempts to anneal case necks. "By the time a case neck needs annealing at the neck, other factors have brought about the end of the case's useful safe reloading life." That's good enough for me. Now if your forming new brass for a wildcat, that's a different story. I think the lead pot would be the most uniform temperature control.