Author Topic: Screw in chock tube removal  (Read 557 times)

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Offline pastorp

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Screw in chock tube removal
« on: May 28, 2021, 11:31:42 AM »
I let my grandson use my 20 gauge Benelli M1 super 90. I had the barrel cut to just over 18” years ago and threaded for truchokes. Well it’s a modified choke now. I’ve soaked
The barrel in kroll and tried ever thing I know to break it lose.

Any ideas?
Byron

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Offline Dee

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Re: Screw in chock tube removal
« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2021, 11:39:11 AM »
I would put the barrel in a padded vise, put pressure on the choke wrench and at the same time tap down with a light hammer.
You may all go to hell, I will go to Texas. Davy Crockett

Offline Ranger99

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Re: Screw in chock tube removal
« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2021, 12:35:32 PM »
I would put the barrel in a padded vise, put pressure on the choke wrench and at the same time tap down with a light hammer.

^ ^ ^ this for one thing
You might hit it with a heat gun
since it's been soaking in the
oil.   Just don't use a torch or too
much heat or the rib might come
loose.
I'd suggest a coat of anti seize on
the next tube.
There's a whole lot of people that
won't use any because it's messy if you're
not careful with it,  but I've yet to hear of
anybody that uses anti seize sticking a
tube
18 MINUTES.  . . . . . .

Offline neckisred

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Re: Screw in chock tube removal
« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2021, 01:24:35 PM »
I'd try a heat gun or a plumbers torch, just be careful. If you can get a helper to keep pressure on the wrench while your heating, all the better. Make sure your not squeezing the tube in the vice.

Offline Dee

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Re: Screw in chock tube removal
« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2021, 01:28:52 PM »
The torch would be my last choice it the bluing is a concern. By doing what I described, you ar causing the threads to break contact each time you tap it with the hammer.
The method works for tightening, or loosening screws also.
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Offline Land_Owner

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Re: Screw in chock tube removal
« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2021, 11:08:59 PM »
You can FREEZE the barrel to create a greater temperature differential (Delta T) as an aid to softening the corrosion when heating the tube.  Freezing compresses the steel choke and the tube.  One hundred and fifty (150) degrees (hair dryer) to twenty five (25) degrees (freezer) is a better Delta T than 150 degrees to one hundred and twenty (120) degrees, which is room temp in a Florida Garage.

Gentle heat (hair dryer) expands the frozen tube before thermal expansions settles into the choke tube.  Expansion and contraction will mechanically soften the Kroll soaked corrosion.  This cycle can be done multiple times.  Then gently hammer and torque.

I use the hair dryer as an example, because your spouse probably has one and it will be less likely to "burn" the barrel, though it probably can.  I would not heat my barrel to the full extent of the dryer. Cycling multiple times will most likely give you a favorable result.  Patience Grasshopper...

Offline Lloyd Smale

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Re: Screw in chock tube removal
« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2021, 01:15:38 AM »
that would be my first attempt
You can FREEZE the barrel to create a greater temperature differential (Delta T) as an aid to softening the corrosion when heating the tube.  Freezing compresses the steel choke and the tube.  One hundred and fifty (150) degrees (hair dryer) to twenty five (25) degrees (freezer) is a better Delta T than 150 degrees to one hundred and twenty (120) degrees, which is room temp in a Florida Garage.

Gentle heat (hair dryer) expands the frozen tube before thermal expansions settles into the choke tube.  Expansion and contraction will mechanically soften the Kroll soaked corrosion.  This cycle can be done multiple times.  Then gently hammer and torque.

I use the hair dryer as an example, because your spouse probably has one and it will be less likely to "burn" the barrel, though it probably can.  I would not heat my barrel to the full extent of the dryer. Cycling multiple times will most likely give you a favorable result.  Patience Grasshopper...
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Offline wtxbadger

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Re: Screw in chock tube removal
« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2021, 08:26:54 AM »
A padded vise and with the choke wrench and a light hammer actually tap in the direction of tightening the tube first a couple of times and then try tapping it back the other way to loosen it and back it out.

Might sound crazy actually running it further in and then trying to back it out but it has worked for me on engine bolts including exhaust manifold bolts and studs.
wtxbadger