Author Topic: Stuck case problem! (Read 2406 times)

WVHILLBILLY · « **on:** March 07, 2004, 01:45:56 AM »

After shooting a round in my Ultra Varmint 243, I often have to tap out the case with a very slight tap from a cleaning rod

. I am using a load that is at max but it also done it under max load also. My loads show no other pressure signs. Is this a weak extractor or my loads too hot?

Thanks,
WVHILLBILLY :sniper:

Duce · « **Reply #1 on:** March 07, 2004, 02:32:15 AM »

WVHB: Is your chamber squeeky clean, seems that from the factory they use a metal prep about like pine tar!!! Sometimes a good thorough cleaning is all it takes. Next it might be prudent to back off your loads some. As a last resort you may have to polish the chamber. Good Luck: <>< :grin: Duce:

stevex · « **Reply #2 on:** March 07, 2004, 03:58:18 AM »

wvhillbilly,

I had the same thing when I bought my Ultra223.It upset me dearly because I went to the range to sight it in and on the second shot a casing stuck in the chamber.I had no rod or anything to get it out.I went home and used a cleaning rod to gently tap out the case.I then thoroughly cleaned the rifle and chamber with Hoppes solvent and oil.Then I used a large patch and dried all the oil out of the chamber.It has worked fine ever since.

AZ223 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 07, 2004, 07:32:18 AM »

My 223 Ultra stuck like crazy (3-4 out of 10 shots) when I first got it, but even that first time out, didn't stick at all with Winchester ammo. I read a few posts elsewhere on the problem, then took it apart and cleaned it thoroughly. The one thing I do is ALWAYS make sure the chamber is clean & dry; now it shoots everything I run through it and haven't had one stick since. Also, I was advised to avoid Wolf ammo in the Handi's; the cases are coated, which then melts when you fire them and they stick real bad.

dread · « **Reply #4 on:** March 08, 2004, 08:59:28 PM »

I had a live round stuck in my NEF 30-30. I put oil down the barrel and let it saturate overnight. Next day I got a brass rod and gently tapped it out. It was a reload and the brass was "Sears". I was happy the round came out but I am concerned about that happening again. Very scary situation.

Big Blue · « **Reply #5 on:** March 08, 2004, 11:38:08 PM »

I remember some posts on the old site about this. The problem seemed to be related to either the ejector, or the chamber. The answer to both was cleaning. The ejector can be cleaned with a brake cleaner, but use the type that's non chlorinated, and clean it good with bore cleaner and oil afterwards. If the chamber is causing problems try using Flitz polish and a tite patch to polish the chamber a bit, again use the bore cleaner and oil when your done. This seems to be just another of the Handi quirks that pop up, and make these rifles more interesting.
Don

tscott · « **Reply #6 on:** March 09, 2004, 10:39:35 AM »

I to recall the other site, from where I learned a lot...
The cleaning got it close, but when I did the toothpaste on the shell
casing with a small screwdriver shoved in the primer hole, and rotated
in the chamber.... now that was the ticket!!!!

dread · « **Reply #7 on:** March 09, 2004, 12:38:30 PM »

Not wanting to sound facetious, but what brand of toothpaste was used in the bore? Some have what seems like abrasives in them and others don't feel that way. Just wondered as I will try it.

WVHILLBILLY · « **Reply #8 on:** March 09, 2004, 03:46:33 PM »

Yeah! I'm with DREAD, What brand of toothpaste? :grin:

WVHILLBILLY

tscott · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2004, 04:52:16 PM »

Crest!
Funny, when I was in basic training after getting drafted, we used toothpaste as a finish in the bore to make it shine before inspection.
Shine wouldn't last long, and we wouldn't leave it in the barrel of those old m14's....

handirifle · « **Reply #10 on:** March 10, 2004, 06:41:20 PM »

Wasn't there a post somewhere about taking apart the extractor and de-burring it too? Where was that? Seems like it had pics too.