Yamaha 9.9 hp. Metal screw from H*** in plastic part - won't come out.

[Land_Owner]

2006 9.9 MSH 682K S 1041179

All right Wrench Turners.  Here's one ==>

A metal screw from h*** (#32 in picture below), keeps a broken plastic piece  (#31) on a plastic shaft (#24), for control of forward, neutral, and reverse.  The screw WILL NOT back out - and I HAVE TRIED.  A huge screwdriver, well fitted to the slot in the screw head, cannot turn this screw more than a few hundredths of an inch.  I held #24 in location while my son torqued on #32 - nothing.  He held its location and I TORQUED on #32 - twice.  I got 0.02" (+/-) of total rotation. 

I can't grab it with any wrench.  None of my Phillips screwdrivers are long enough, and if I had one it would not engage the screw any better than the huge Standard screwdriver already used.

I have tried counter rotation (tightening) and nothing.  I have Kroil oil that I have not tried.  I am at a loss for what to try next...the "assembly" is held in place through holes in the casting.  There is no removal to work this out at the vice on the bench.

[BUGEYE]

WD-40 is your friend.

[Land_Owner]

I cannot imagine that WD40 would work its way in there when "significant torque" does not get it done.  I am not opposed to trying though...

[Dee]

Would a small crescent on the screwdriver tip help, or do you have a standard screwdriver that a box end wrench will fit over?

[O-mega]

Soak it with kroil, then use a stubby screwdriver or one of these attachments.

[Land_Owner]

I am soaking it in Kroil - the superfine penetrating oil with a unique smell.  Adding torque might work, or "explode" the whole mess (twist off the screw head), at which point I will have a mess and need four or five parts (small parts, plastic parts, and keeper screws).  The fact that the engine will NOT go back into reverse gear keeps the metal screw from coming to the top where I could get more "purchase" and torque on it.  I may need three (3) sets of hands to undo this one screw.

[O-mega]

I am soaking it in Kroil - the superfine penetrating oil with a unique smell.  Adding torque might work, or "explode" the whole mess (twist off the screw head), at which point I will have a mess and need four or five parts (small parts, plastic parts, and keeper screws).  The fact that the engine will NOT go back into reverse gear keeps the metal screw from coming to the top where I could get more "purchase" and torque on it.  I may need three (3) sets of hands to undo this one screw.

If you use a hammer drill/impact wrench with that attachment, it will give it torque in small amounts at a time.  It can jar it loose easier, but of course it can break it if it gets too much.  I see no reason for this to be reverse threaded, but I would try and verify that before giving it too much torque one way or the other.

[neckisred]

If you can access the screw in part #24, maybe remove part #24 and slide out the assembly so you can work on it easier? I'd bet a call or visit to a Yamaha shop will answer your question

[Graybeard]

Maybe you should try turning it the OTHER way. Maybe it has different threads than you are assuming it has. What can it hurt to try?

[neckisred]

You could also try a soldering iron to heat the screw. My guess is the screws in that assembly are not meant to be removed, only to secure the parts to the shaft permanently. I also suspect those parts are not available individually and the replacement is a complete assembly. Thats why I suggested a call or visit to the dealer.

[Land_Owner]

Guess ya'll missed this part...

I have tried counter rotation (tightening) and nothing.

I can heat it with a soldering iron - if it comes to that.  It can't be tight if it's liquid...so the meme goes.

I will contact the local Yamaha Dealer and inquire of their Mechanic with regard to this "assembly".  Part #32 HAS to come OUT and #31 HAS to come OFF, because part #24 is installed through holes in the cast body (see illustration).

[neckisred]

My bad LO. I mistook part #27+#28 for part #24. Looks like a lot going on in there with limited access. Hopefully the Yamaha mechanic will have a simple solution.

[Lloyd Smale]

used to work on lots of moto cross bikes and alot of the case screws wouldnt budge without a hammer blow impact driver. Usually one or two raps with the hammer broke them loose.

[Land_Owner]

This is the Control Arm for Forward, Neutral, and Reverse.  There IS a lot going on with this simple mechanism. 

Yamaha Dealer locally said to use heat, not impact, on this 5mm long screw, and confirmed Red Lock-tite was used to hold-fast (YOU BET YOUR BIPPY IT DOES!).

Online parts shopping confirms it to be a machine screw with right hand threads.  Dealer said to cycle through four or five times with soldering iron heat and kroil, then try torque without impact.  Impact tends to snap off the screw head, he said  :-(  Oh No Mr. Bill!

[ironglow]

.
  I was about to say..but Lloyd beat me to it..and old timers trick.  Tap on the screwdriver handle with a hammer, while applying torque (if the situation allows it) .  ..But then,  you may have tried that already.

[BUGEYE]

Don't get it too hot, the vapors of kroil is flammable. 

[Lloyd Smale]

this is what im refering too. If you work on atvs motorcycles ect its a must have.

https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Impact-Driver-8-Inch-CMMT14104/dp/B07R96M9VW/ref=asc_df_B07R96M9VW?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80470587765863&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584070142262115&psc=1

[Land_Owner]

The weight of that $19.99 Impact Driver is interesting:




There is NO ROOM in the case for hammering that driver to 200 foot-pounds of force, though I understand the concept, and it is a good one - when there is room to work.

Yesterday was a day of cycling the soldering iron as heat and Kroil cooling.  It is 104-degrees in the shade of the garage.  The 5mm machine bolt has not budged any further and I am not quite ready to put an impact tool through the choke hole.  My son is coming over again this afternoon and together we will try a ratchet and bit to impart additional torque.  We should be able to deliver 100 plus foot-pounds without impact.  If that does not free the bolt, then impact.

[neckisred]

Couple more thoughts. I've seen alot of cigarette/cigar lighters that are similar to a miniature butane torch. Very small flame and could probably get you a little more heat than the soldering iron, or maybe cut the broken part with a Dremel to gain more surface to use vice grips on the screw? Once you get a slot cut with the Dremel you could possibly insert a flat screwdriver to break the part?

[Land_Owner]

Yes, I have one of those lighters - with a tiny torch flame.  Getting it in there without melting the part or setting the gas lines on fire is on my mind.  I am also looking at whether I have the hand for putting the Dremel to that bolt.  Cutting it off to the right hand side toward the cast support is the way I would have to go. 

Looking at the totality of part #24, there are a total of three (3) 5mm bolts on that shaft that HAVE to come out to allow room to replace part #31.  I screwed....

[neckisred]

I wouldnt Dremel the screw, just part 31. I wish you luck my friend. Wish I was close enough to help, I enjoy little challenges like that.

[Land_Owner]

In this DIY instance, there is NO WONDER that MECHANIC'S LABOR in Dealer or Shop time is 50%, or more, of the repair cost. Perhaps though, for my own sanity, I should take this to a Dealer or shop and let them find the way home...

[Graybeard]

I'm beginning to think a properly applied .270 Winchester, isn't that your poison of choice?, might be in order. Hey it won't fix the problem but just think of the satisfaction it would give you.

[Land_Owner]

I removed the carburetor and gave myself some breathing room and work space.  Yes 270 Win. is my "Jones", and thank you, but no thank you - AT THIS TIME - Bill for the recommendation.  I feel a solution is near...said the man just before the BIG hammer came out.

The middle screw came out with no problem. They are definitely JIS screws, evidenced by the small indent in the screw head (see inset pic).

I made a montage of the parts in pictures below. #24 is a METAL shaft with a plastic tip on the right hand end (not shown - not a problem - yet).

I tried every tool bit I have. None are JIS. Retooling or other solution is at hand. Offending screw is boogered up some.

The broken part #31 is shown (lower rt. pic). What is the chance, if it was REAL clean, that JB Weld and a dab of petroleum jelly on the metal pin (inserted) would hold the thrust of this linkage?

[Land_Owner]

Heat got the other and the Dremel did the job to a point.  I am left with a few scratches, a removed broken part #31, and ALL but the last remnant of the offending screw(s) off of #24, which is good to reuse.  The replacement parts are ordered.

Now...how to get the remnant screw out?  There isn't sufficient room to get a mini-vide grip on it.  I don't weld.  Maybe my friend could.

I could, with care, Dremel a slot in the remnant, but that isn't assured to get it out with the big standard screw driver.

[Land_Owner]

It has been a GOOD day. The offending screw is OUT of the outboard and new parts are ordered for this control linkage repair.

Side by side (pictured below) is part #32 and #32 MODIFIED. I put a 3/8" machine threaded nut on the stub. My friend zip-welded the nut to the stub and the high heat and 1/4" ratchet "walked it out" smartly.

[Dee]

Ingenious on the nut weld. I'll remember that trick.

[northwoodneil]

I've used that trick a dozen times and it worked every time. I never tried it on a stud that small though. Did he use a TIG welder? I think my MIG or ark welder would have been to much to quick.

[Dee]

I've got a flux core wire welder that's  good a little past 3/8 inch that turned down would handle that nicely.
Rather than buy a quick detachable flashlight mount for my Streamlight tactical, I took the screw out of a low mount scope mount, welded a T on it using an old allen wrench, buffed it out and blued it, put it on the flashlight, and it Works like penicillin used to.

[Ranger99]

Glad it came out without destroying half
the motor
Outboards are just like motorcycles and
ATV'S and lawn mowers and cars and trucks
and ag tractors and everything else you can
name.  They're built for ease of assembly
on an assembly line,  not for ease of repair
or service