Author Topic: Neck Sizing  (Read 485 times)

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Offline revchopp

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Neck Sizing
« on: March 09, 2004, 03:39:24 AM »
:D Hello all.
I am new to reloading so my question may seem a little stupid to all you old pros out there.  I am loading for 243Win, 25-06Rem, and 300Win Mag.  I have several loading manuals including the new Hornady manual.  In that manual it tells that using neck sizing dies result in more accurate loads and case life is greatly enhanced.  I understand that you cannot use neck sizing dies for autoloading, pump, or lever action rifles.  So for I am using nothing but neck sizing dies in the calibers stated.  Why doesn't everyone use neck sizing dies for bolt action rifles? Am I overlooking something?
 :D
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Offline ButlerFord45

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Neck Sizing
« Reply #1 on: March 09, 2004, 04:56:39 AM »
As you continue to use the cases, they grow, eventually you'll have to full length resize and trim.  Many folks full length resize for functional reliability specially for hunting puropses ie. 12 point 400# buck and you cant get the bullet to chamber because it is too tight or too long.
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Offline Jerry Lester

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Neck Sizing
« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2004, 07:09:04 AM »
Like BF45 said, eventually(depending on your load), you'll have to full length size to get the loads to chamber.

I've used "dedicated" neck dies for several different calibers, but in all honesty, unless you're using one of the higher end dies with a supporting sleeve that lines up your case in the die, you're likely causing your loads to have more run-out than if you full length sized every time.

A way better alternative in my opinion is to use a full length die to partial size the case. This solves several problems with things like run-out, and chamber alignment, as well as(if you're carefull with your adjustment) head spacing.

Your manuals will give a lot better detailed instruction on this than I can here, but I can give you an exellent tip for adjusting your die for this type of proccess.

Use a set of the flat feeler gages. They're marked in thousandths, and because they're flat, wide, and consistant, you can use them between the die, and shell holder to adjust your dies for partial sizing. When you set up your dies this way, they'll always turn out loads that'll chamber easily, line up perfectly with the bore, and will generally have less run-out than loads assembled with a neck die.

Offline longwinters

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Neck Sizing
« Reply #3 on: March 09, 2004, 11:52:54 AM »
Hmmm, I started reloading last year and thought I understood the resizing methods.  But now Jerry has me wondering.  I use regular RCBS full-length dies.  But according to the reloading manuals the only difference between setting up for full-length vs. neck-sizing is about a nickels width between the shell holder and the die.  Is this actually "partial sizing of the case"?  

long
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Offline ihookem

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Neck Sizing
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2004, 12:22:51 PM »
Longwinters, when you necksize with a full length, you are resizing the case a little bit. I think Midway sells neck sizeing dies. I never really noticed the difference in case life or accuracy though,not even in my bull barrel Remington. The neck is what seems to split first anyway. P.s Glad to hear you didn't drown in the snow yet.

Offline hogship

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Neck Sizing
« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2004, 02:11:46 PM »
It makes no difference what kind of dies you use to neck size, the neck still has to be prepared the same way for either.

Whether you're using a collet (Lee) or sizer/expander ball, it is this portion of the procedure that results in the largest contribution to an out-of-round condition.

All of my neck size dies are Redding. I guess I was happy with the first one, so no need to switch! It is important to note that using neck lube (I use mica) and cycling your press with uniform pressure and doing it the same way, repeatedly, is the key to producing cases with the least possible neck runout.

I use a NECO gauge for testing bullet and neck runout. I'm not sure they make those anymore, but it's one fine instrument for checking runout.

I haven't used a Lee collet neck sizer, but I've heard good things about them. I may give one a try, the next time I'm in the market for a neck sizer.

For those of you with an obsession with concentricity, you might want to consider neck turning.

Here's a photo of the NECO tool..... Note: This particular .308 cartridge has .0003" (three ten thousandths) bullet run out......not too bad! It's been neck turned with Sinclair Phase II tool, neck sized on Redding neck size die, and 190gr Sierra match king bullet was seated with Redding micrometer competition seat die.

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Offline jhm

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Neck Sizing
« Reply #6 on: March 09, 2004, 02:33:08 PM »
Longwinters ;  For almost 30 years the way you have described the difference between full length and neck is the way we always did it, but I am sure over the years someone has come up with a better way to do it, however I will stay with the same way you described as it has always worked for me, and if you can find the washers that yopu could get that was the thickness of the difference of a 38 special and the 357 mag. and use it between the die and the press you will be necksizing also :D    JIM

Offline Dave in WV

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Neck Sizing
« Reply #7 on: March 09, 2004, 02:56:16 PM »
revchopp, for the .243 & 25-06 I recommend RCBS X dies. They come with good directions and elimiminate trimming the cases after the initial first time to get all the cases the same length to setup the resize die. My son and I both use them for our .243s.
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Offline Jerry Lester

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Neck Sizing
« Reply #8 on: March 09, 2004, 08:32:17 PM »
Quote from: longwinters
Hmmm, I started reloading last year and thought I understood the resizing methods.  But now Jerry has me wondering.  I use regular RCBS full-length dies.  But according to the reloading manuals the only difference between setting up for full-length vs. neck-sizing is about a nickels width between the shell holder and the die.  Is this actually "partial sizing of the case"?  

long


The way you're doing it is just fine for most rifles. I wouldn't actually use a nickel though as it's not the same thickness all the way around. as long as you're sizing enough of the neck to hold the bullet properly, you're doing fine.

The reason I started using the method I do now, is because I came across a rifle that after the cases were partial sized, they wouldn't even come close to chambering back in the gun. I traced it back to the chamber being slightly over sized in diameter. When I partial sized with your method, it pushed the shoulder forward a little, and then the cases wouldn't chamber at all. I put up with full length sizing till I finally sat down, and figured out how to partial size, and make it work. I started sizing the cases a little more each time, till I found my "sweet spot" where they chambered easily again, and stopped there. Groups shrunk a little, and I was pleased.

I have a Ruger 77 MK-II in 223 caliber now, that's the same way. If you partial size, you couldn't drive the dang cases back into the chamber with a hammer! LOL! I set my sizing die .012" (if memory serves me right), from the shell holder, and the cases "just" chamber snugly. This little Ruger is also very accurate, contrary to the rap that Rugers generally get.