Revolver barrel removal

[Tad Houston]

I bought a used ruger old army, and the there is a little bit of crud and rust between the barrel and the frame that is very hard to get to. How hard would it be to remove the barrel to get at this spot better? I am afraid if i dont do something about it, it could get out of hand like cancer. Thanks-Tad

[Flint]

There is a frame tool from Brownells to hold and rotate the frame with without bending or twisting the frame, but it's expensive.  You need a pair of wooden blocks with grooves for the barrel, and resin for traction, and a good vise.  A wood tool similar to a hammer handle, shaped at the top to contact the cylinder window edges with even pressure.  If you don't have the equipment, let a gunsmith do it.  There is a shop manual out now by Jerry Kuhnhausen on the Ruger Single Actions, and if it's as good as his manuals on the Smith & Wessons and Colts, it's worth your getting.

[John Traveler]

I've rebarrelled many Ruger Blackhawk revolvers using only the barrel  block and hammer handle method.  NO problems in bending that single-action frame.  Those heat treated Ruger investment castings really ARE rugged!

A 2"x2" hardwood handle is even better than a hammer handle.  The barrel can be held using either lead or aluminum blocks in a heavy duty bench vise.  Make a barrel index mark first, so that you can easily align the barrel/frame later.

The Brownell's frame holding blocks are an espensive accessory, but still not really necessary unless you work on the smaller double action revolvers such as the S&W "J" frame size.

HTH
John

[Iowegan]

Removing the barrel to clean under it is a bit of an overkill. I would just get some Sweet's or other good cleaner and soak it down. After you let it sit for a few hours, the crud will come right off. Be careful if it is a blued gun, you'll need a solvent that will not damage the bluing.

You may also have flame cutting on the top strap, just above the forcing cone. This may look like crud but no amount of cleaning will remove it.

[Tad Houston]

Your right , i think removing the barrel is over kill. i got some rust remover, but it also removes the blue so i have to be very careful with that. I just want to know the extent of the rust so it wont keep getting worse. is there a way to reblue in a crack like that and still look ok? I would like to stop the rust from getting worse. Thanks all- Tad

[Flint]

Cold blues will not prevent rust, a real hot blue is the only way, and the blueing salts that get into the crack, particularly if it has opened from rust, will create more corrosion if you can't wash it out.  Actually, rust prevents rust, and hot blue is black oxide, which technically is rust.  If you flush the affected area with a good penetrating oil, and or Breakfree, the rust will stop spreading, and protect from increase.  If you are worried about deep pitting you can't see, then pull the barrel and inspect it.  Oil and anti-seize should protect it after reassembly once you've wire brushed the scale out.  Patina rust is a good finish, just remove scale.  Patina rust is hard and better than blueing for protecting the surface, as long as it is oiled.