? ABOUT A M44

[BIGBOREFAN]

I just might buy me a M44 at Dunhams for 79.95 but I have a question. Was these guns checked by a gunsmith before. Do I need a gunsmith to check headspace before I shoot it. I would think since a retail chain is selling something like this that it would be safe to shoot.. Am I wrong should I have it checked. I'm kinda knew to military rifles but have been intrigued by them since I met my brother-n-law who really likes them. Plus there way cheap to shoot. Also I have heard rumors they kick really bad and also that they do not kick that bad at all. Whats the scoop.


BBF

[NRAJOE]

Maybe I'm wrong, but I never bother to have them checked...especially if the bolt matches up with the other serial numbers. I got an M38...a M44...and a 91/30 and didn't check any of them. If it really bothers you, have them checked. Mine are all arsenal refinished...I think they check the headspace at the arsenal, but I might be wrong...wouldn't be the first time... :oops:  :shock:  :grin:

[Big Blue]

I'd agree with NRAJOE, if the numbers match, the headspace should be fine, if they don't, have it checked. I don't feel these rifles kick much at all, but recoil sensativity can be subjective. Matching numbers usually command a higher price than nonmatching, but can save you on the gunsmith fees. These guns are well worth their price. I have a nice M38 with laminated stock, that looks like it was made last year, not the 61 years it has been around. If you don't like the guns they have to offer, check the local gun shows for a good deal.
Don

[Robert357]

The Century imported ones were supose to be reassenaled firearms, and put in good shape.  I know that the MN 1891/30 I bought from Big 5 had a Century import tag on it.  I did not check head spacing anymore than using real ammo and examining it after firing.

Before you by buy an M44 or an M38, consider if you will be happy with lots of muzzle flash.  I opted for the MN 1891/30 and am very happy, it has a lot less muzzle flash, is just a little longer, and seems a bit more accurate, based on what other folks seem to be able to do at the local range.

No matter what you do, I would memorized the dates of the Russian wars and then try to get an MN with a manufactured date that was either before the war with Finland and before WWII or after the end of WWII, so that the steel and materials used in the rifle are not war-time shortage quality.

[BIGBOREFAN]

Thanks for the replies and the info guys. You have been a big help.


BBF

[ajj]

Am I correct that this round headspaces on the rim and therefore is less likely to be substantially loose than a rimless cartridge? I've heard some SMLE fans talk about putting one strip of Scotch tape over the primer of a cartridge and then seeing if the bolt will close. See the gunsmith if it does. Does this make sense? I'm asking, not advising. Thanks.

[1911crazy]

All military surplus guns should be headspace checked wether you do it or not is up to you.  I have purchased both "Field Headspace Gages" and  "No-Go Headspace gages".   When rebarreling and using a chamber reamers you need the Go Gage. You can use just the field gage thats the last test to see if it fails before it needs to be taking out of action and repaired.  The bolt lugs can wear into the reciever too causing the bullet case to be setback out of the chamber far enough to where the case can rupture.  Of course if the gun has seen a lot of use too but who knows for sure so by checking the headspace we know for sure if its safe to shoot or not.  If it fails the No-Go Gage it may pass the Field Gage test and still be ok to shoot.  If your going to buy one headspace gage buy the "Field Gage" or take it to your gunsmith it just takes minutes to test and be sure your safe.  It also pays off to check the gun right away to see if its bad or good so you can take it back and get another one to replace it.  When I realized how important this check is to do I ordered all the headspace gages for all my surplups its about the cost of one surplup to be safe.  If you do it or not is up to you.                                      BigBill

[His lordship.]

I have owned quite a few surplus rifles over the years, and your letter reminds me of my first rifle, a Spanish Mauser 98, and my fears about having it checked as I was 18 years old at the time.  

I did have a gunsmith check it before I fired it, but after that I made a rule that if in doubt about ammo or the rifle, bench it, making sure it is safely aimed down range, and pull your face to the left and away from it when firing the gun.  If the rifle explodes, it usually will blow up and to the right, or back, either way your face is away.

I still use this method when test firing the first round of questionable military ammo, or a new surplus rifle.  I also scrutinize the fired case to check it for bulging, splits, etc.

I have owned 3 Mosin Nagants, and they are average in recoil with the steel butt plates, I use a slip on butt pad to make em' smooth shooting in the recoil dept.

[kevin.303]

i recently bought an M44 as well and when i fired it she gave a fairly good thump at the shoulder. it helps to make sure that all bolts are tightened and some one told me that the 7.62 is fairly hot as far military ammo goes and a heavy bullet in a carbine barrel will kick a lot more then out of a regular rifle barrel. who was it that had the same experiance?

[Mikey]

Kevin 303 - I have had the same experience with my brother's M44.  She thumped, alright, and as did you I also tightened up all the screws.  I also found out that there appeared to be quite a bit of extra room in the stock for the action, so to improve accuracy I bedded the beast and that also helped with the 'thumpin'.  I guess the extra 'play' allowed for a bit of additional 'set back' when it recoiled.  But, it be fixed now!  And you are correct about that caliber - the military loads are hot enough but when you add a 200 gn bullet to the equation of a light rifle and short barrel, it's gonna thump ya.  Mikey.