Author Topic: Cold Blue (Read 926 times)

Prince of Wales · « **on:** March 23, 2004, 11:29:53 AM »

Can anyone tell what product might give a reasonable result. I know cold blue is a no no. Also know that it is not going to be near equal to hot tanked blue. I just want a referal to a product that might be worth the time and money to apply.
Right now I am leaning toward Brownells Cream Blue finish. For about $13 the entire kit is provided. Are better products available?
Thanks and good luck. POW

m14dan · « **Reply #1 on:** March 23, 2004, 01:18:00 PM »

I don't know if it's better but I have used birchwood casey super blue on numerous small jobs over the years and it works great. It even works on stainless gas cylinders on m-1's and m-14's. I just found out it doesn't work on stainless rifle barrels though. Must be a different alloy.

Flint · « **Reply #2 on:** March 23, 2004, 02:58:52 PM »

Try this, it is much more permanent and worked for me. http://www.stuffyoucanbuy.com/BlueWonderGunBlue.html

Shorty · « **Reply #3 on:** March 23, 2004, 03:06:34 PM »

'Can't recommend a brand, but, a couple o' hints.
A less-than-polished finish takes it better. There's more surface area to "absorb" the bluing.
Warm the metal first. Just below boiling temperature. You can run it under straight hot water from the tap or play a torch over it.

smoji · « **Reply #4 on:** March 23, 2004, 03:34:01 PM »

I have tried several kinds of cold blue including the Blue Wonder product. Most are pretty reliable for small parts and bits but much less so for whole gun bluing with the regular type steels.
The only one I have used that is reliable, both for parts and for whole gun treatment, is Oxpho-Blue liquid from Brownells.
It is remarkably durable and easy to apply. It is very forgiving if preparation is not perfect and can even be applied, with effect, through a film of dirt and oil. Of course, if the metal is marked, the marks will still be there.
Different guns can require different application techniques because of differences in metal hardness or alloy, but the product is inexpensive and goes a long way. A four ounce bottle will blue several guns.

longwinters · « **Reply #5 on:** March 23, 2004, 03:36:41 PM »

Welcome Smoji, nice to have you onboard.

long

Prince of Wales · « **Reply #6 on:** March 24, 2004, 06:28:01 AM »

Thanks everyone. Good responses. Its a Savage 99 and the bottom of the action is so smooth it looks nickle plated. best of luck. POW

smoji · « **Reply #7 on:** March 24, 2004, 10:49:13 AM »

Actually, I just finished bluing a Savage 99C with Oxpho-Blue last night.
The barrel takes the blue exceptionally well. The receiver is quite hard and takes a little more attention and a bit different technique but the results are very good.. Customer was most pleased.

Vernon Drake · « **Reply #8 on:** March 24, 2004, 12:07:02 PM »

The advice about not having it too shiny is good, as it is harder to get a lasting finish. I have sometimes used two or three different products on one job as the steel varies. I usually warm the metal pretty good and if I have a spot that doesn't want to take I'll use some real fine steel wool with the bluing & polish it in that way. I have used Brownell's products and use a lot of 44-40 too. The best I found for matching in and not leaving a "joining mark" is High-Tech Pro Gun Blue made in Scarborough, Canada, but sad to say can't find a current supplier. That and followed up with 44-40 has worked several times.

Prince of Wales · « **Reply #9 on:** March 24, 2004, 12:12:44 PM »

smoji would you care to elaborate on the different technique you mention? Thanks. POW

smoji · « **Reply #10 on:** March 24, 2004, 04:02:21 PM »

As for preparation, this was a job of "make it blue, leave the marks" so I just used Scotch Brite abrasive sheet, Grade A-VFN to remove what was left of the original blue and to blend the fine marks, then rinsed it all with alcohol.
It is helpful to have one of those little squirt bottles to dispense the blue.
For the barrel:
1) wet a pad of soft , absorbent cloth (I use those blue shop paper towels) with the blue and apply with long,even strokes so as to wet the entire barrel.
Don't worry about overlaps, that doesn't seem to be an issue with this product.
2) wipe dry.
3) allow to sit for a few minutes and then card off the remaining film with steel wool. I prefer '0000" but have used '00' with good results. You can lean on the '0000' wool all you want and the bluing ain't coming off but be a little more cautious with the '00'.
4) repeat steps 1 thru 3 a couple more times.

For the rest of the gun, except the lever if it is colour case hardened:
1) to start, follow the instructions as for the barrel.
2) prepare a new application pad and a larger pad which will serve as a drier.
3) put a drop or two of the blue on the application pad and take up that pad in one hand and the drying pad in the other and, with the gun held securely in a vise, begin the dance. ( it is important the pad be just barely damp. If it is too wet, this procedure will not work)
Lightly pass the bluing pad over the receiver and be following it immediately with the drying pad. You will see that you are laying on the merest of film on each pass but it does accumulate and eventually you begin to realize that it is gradually darkening as you work. Work your way over the entire receiver and every so often, go over it with the steel wool and check your progress.
All this goes faster than it sounds. It's also that kind of mindless chore, like cutting grass, that can provide a relaxing respite from the tensions of the day. Brownell's provides pretty good instructions free of charge and other tips are available in the Gunsmith Kinks series.
After you are satisfied, oil her up and go play.

Prince of Wales · « **Reply #11 on:** March 25, 2004, 06:57:00 AM »

Thanks smoji. POW

gunnut69 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 25, 2004, 06:15:44 PM »

OxphoBlue is really great stuff and can be applied several ways. I usually just keep the surface wet with the product until it is no longer getting darker. Wipe dry and burnish (polish) with the steel wool..(0000 or 000). the 00 can remove some bluing. After wiping dry a haze will sometimes form, this will burnsh away. A new applicator is needed fairly often. I use makeup application pads from the local wally world and a cheap stainless locking forceps from china. Bought tham at a flea market. The Squirt bottle is a very good idea, Brownells sells several types. Tip-- a number 60 drilled hole thru the cap will keep bottles with a pickup submerged in a liquid from puking that liquid all over the place when the atmospheric pressure changes. When trying to squirt out the liquid simply place your finger over the drilled holed and the bottle will dispense as usual... Heat will help the bluing process to a degree but it is not a good idea to breath the vapors of this stuff boiling. Experiment if the material doesn't want to color. I've found that sometimes the first application won't color the steel but the second,third etc, do.. I believe the first simply 'etched' the surface of the steel allowing the next applications to 'bite'.