Author Topic: Testfiring Brass frame 1851 .36 cal. Load suggestions?  (Read 695 times)

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Offline stoney pete

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Testfiring Brass frame 1851 .36 cal. Load suggestions?
« on: April 01, 2004, 03:14:04 AM »
:D   Gonna test fire for accuracy my 1851 Navy.  Never shot .36 before and I'm not interested in using filler.  What's a good load?

Stoney (who's using Pyrodex P :eek: ) Pete
"Certainty of death. Small chance of success. What are we waiting for?" - Gimli, Lord of the Rings, Return of the King.

Offline MOGorilla

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Testfiring Brass frame 1851 .36 cal. Load
« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2004, 07:15:33 AM »
I have a steel frame, but I use 18 grains-pyrodex, true BP is as rare as frog hair around here, a wonder wad and a .376 ball.  This is the largest ball I found without ordering.   I was getting pretty much poa out of the box with mine-pietta, incase you were wondering.   I don't use lube/grease over the ball.  I do use bore butter on the cylinder pin before shooting.  I have put~150 rounds in an afternoon and had no trouble with fouling.    Enjoy.

Offline Gatofeo

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Testfiring Brass frame 1851 .36 cal. Load
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2004, 12:55:16 PM »
I use up to 24 grains of Pyrodex --- by volume as compared to Goex FFFG black powder --- in my Colt 2nd generation 1851 Navy.
I use this occasionally, as I have a fair amount of black powder on hand and I'm burning up some old stock of Pyrodex P by plinking.
I should think that your brass-framed 1851 Navy could easily take 20 grains of Pyrodex (again, by FFFG volume, not true weight).
If you don't wish to use a loose filler, such as corn meal or cream of wheat, then use two felt wads under the ball. The felt wads should be soaked in a lubricant before use.
My favorite lubricant is a home-brew of 1 part canning paraffin, 1 part mutton tallow (or lard) and 1/2 part of beeswax. All amounts are by weight. I suggest using a kitchen scale to measure 200/200/100 grams of ingredients and placing in a quart Mason jar.
Place the jar in three or four inches of boiling water. When all ingredients are melted, stir with a clean stick or disposable chopstick. Allow to cool at room temperature.
Now, get a clean tuna can. Place two heaping Tablespoons of lubricant in the can at very low heat. Just enough to melt the lubricant. Add 100 wads. Stir them into the melted lubricant until they are well-soaked. Allow to cool at room temperature. Snap a plastic, pet lid over the can and you now have a great container to take them to the range.
If the above is too much trouble, melt some Crisco and soak the wads in that.
At the range, charge each chamber. Seat the greased wad (or two, in this instance) atop the charge as a separate operation. Then seat the ball firmly on the seated wad. No lubricant is needed over the ball if you use a well-greased wad.
Do not use petroleum-based greases and lubricants. When coupled with black powder, they typically leave a hard, tar-like fouling.
Use a ball of .380 inch if you can. It will be more accurate. Such balls are sold by Warren Muzzleloading of Arkansas at www.warrenmuzzleloading.com
Remember, all Colts typically shoot high. At 25 yards, they often shoot 6 to 8 inches high, slighly lower at 50 yards. Most shoot dead-on at 75 to 100 yards. So, at the 25 yard range you'll have to aim below the intended target.
Ensure the wedge is tight in your revolver. Use a nylon-faced hammer or small mallet to tap it in or out, or you'll mar the wedge and area around it.
The use of two, well-greased wads should leave your bore very clean. I use one wad over 24 grains of FFFG black powder so you should have room for two wads if you use 20 grains equivalent.
"A hit with a .22 is better than a miss with a .44."

Offline stoney pete

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Testfiring Brass frame 1851 .36 cal. Load
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2004, 03:18:37 AM »
Thanks gents.  One of these days I'll actually take this gun out and shoot it.

Stoney ( what's not had time and weather co-operate in 3 weeks) Pete
"Certainty of death. Small chance of success. What are we waiting for?" - Gimli, Lord of the Rings, Return of the King.