Well I promised a post when I started shooting the Savage and here it is........
I originally planned to make each mod and shoot before and after to record any improvements, this was the plan in a perfect world with lots of time and energy. Unfortunately my current job provided neither so things were done more all at once and range work (for me in the backyard at a bench) was done between bad weather which is common this time of year.
First thing was go over gun and check it out......four observations -
The accu trigger thats supposed to adjust down to 2 1/2# is bottomed out and still about 3 1/4#. Thats not bad for hunting but would like it better around 2 1/2# for load development and target shooting. This is the second Savage ML'er that tested over three at lightest setting out of box. I called Savage and inquired into getting alighter spring to move the pull weight down and was given the runaround and finally told no that these triggers were only serviced by Savage at their factory. This is my third accu trigger gun and they are all well over the stated weight as per Savage add copy. Oh well I'll remove the spring and clip to the desired weight and remake the tail on it for adjustment.
The stock is real close to the barrel on one side and looks good on the other.
The gun is quite barrel heavy with poor balance.
The ramrod is the same old plastic noodle that was supposed to be replaced with a stiffer fiberglass in the accu trigger guns.....both new guns are not supplied with updated RR. I know I can have Savage ship me one but I probably wouldn't like it much either.
Fit and finish are fine and with gun in tow I head for the local gunsmith to have some mods preformed. I had two inches removed from the barrel to shorten and lighten it along with restoring a little balance, I had the barrel recrowned with an 11 degree target crown that looks just like a funnel on the end and will be easy when pouring powder in it. I have him fill the blind magazine hole in the stock and glass bed the action and recoil lug from the bolt to the barrel nut. Last I have him fill the screw hole the rear site screw left and waited for his call.
When the gun was ready I picked it up and installed a XS power rod of solid alumunum shortened to the new barrel length. I made a bullet starter by cutting a 223 brass in half and drilling out the primer for a screw to drop in and go thru, than I filled the case with epoxy and pushed the end of the SST bullet into it with grease on it. When hard I removed the bullet and had a perfect shaped brass bullet starter for the RR end that fits thru the thimble. I took the stock off and sanded the tight side out to give the barrel channel equal room on each side the barrel. I cleaned the barrel well with solvent and a bronze brush and ended with taking a sabot and filling the side grooves with JB bore paste and shooting it out. Another thorough cleaning and I was range ready.
Day One....I begin shooting with VV N110 powder - Remington primers - and 250gr Hornady SST sabots. After getting on paper I notice it is vertical stringing at 50yds by about 2" and at 100yds it opens up to about 4" of high and low shot strings. The bolt will not slide back when lifted to the top and needs to be tapped with a rubber mallet Grrrrrrrr.......this is not going well at all.
Day Two.....I have posted my problems on the Savage ML'er message board and among the myrid answers I notice two posters (Mike and RB) are saying pitch the primers and try some different brands. I drive the 30 miles to the nearest supplier and score some Winchester (the only brand he stocks). Start with 42 grains of N110 and the gun comes to life with the bullet stringing gone and bolt working smoothly :>) I ease up to 42.5 grains and the groups tighten more with no recoil at all to speak of. Last two groups are .750 and .685 for three shots at 100yds. At fifty it shoots three sabots thru the same hole!
I'm sure with only two sessions under its belt the gun will still tune a little tighter and this is just with one powder and bullet combo, and only adjusting charge weight. I tried some AA5744 at 44 grains and it wouldn't group under 2" and the gun didn't seem to like it nearly as much.
The balance of the gun isn't perfect but a world better than out of the box, if I could go back I would have had 3" cut rather than 2". The SST's load tight but not bad and the bullet starter works great. I did have to use off-set inserts in the signature rings to center the Conquest reticle and keep it near the adjustment center. I still want to lighten the trigger about 1/2# more on low setting for target work now that I see its accuracy potential.
Final.....I believe it will shoot 1/2" groups at 2300fps with very mild recoil (about like my 7mm-08) and the SST's are the ticket in mine for the velocity I want to push them as well as the VV N110 being the best powder for straight loads (with the results I'm getting I doubt I will try the IMR SR4759). I will play with some reverse duplex loads of IMR 4198 and N110 when I'm done as well as fine tuning the weight of my powder charges. I will post up some pics of the crown and bedding when the film is developed as well as a pic of the gun on the bench. Will also chrono the final accuracy loads I arrive at and give its velocity in the 22" barrel (probably about 50fps slower than 24" factory length)
I'm very happy with the gun all in all and would reccommend one to anyone........if you don't want to do a lot of tuning and playing you could try one of the Henry Ball guns that Randy is selling to start about where I'm at with my bedding and tuning mods. Remember if you bed, just skim it up to and around the pillars but keep the action setting on them, and bed good around the recoil lug. Tighten the forward action screw first and then tighten the front trigger guard action screw last. Make sure the rear tang and barrel are floating. I load with the sabot petals at the same place each shot.
AND DON"T USE REMINGTON PRIMERS!!!!!!
