Author Topic: Crimping for a 30-30 reload  (Read 669 times)

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Offline Johnboy1948

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Crimping for a 30-30 reload
« on: April 18, 2004, 06:06:46 AM »
One of my reloading books says to crimp the bullet in a separate operation from the bullet seating. The book does not say why. (This is a bullet with a cannelure and I am reloading for a Winchester 94 lever action.) I have Redding equipment and it has the ability to crimp as it seats the bullet. Please educate the great unwashed one here.

thanks,
John :?
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Offline Mac11700

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Crimping for a 30-30 reload
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2004, 08:07:04 AM »
Johnboy1948:

Most of the time this pertains to reloading cast bullets and  as you seat them into the case you don't shave lead from the bullet,some of the dies have tighter expander balls on them and don't allow the bullet to go into the case without shaving the lead... Also  crimping seperatly you can watch your crimp better and adjust it to your desired tension easier.

It doesn't mean you can't seat and crimp at the same time...only some prefere doing it seperatly.

If you are using a collet type die...like the Lee then you can rotate the case to ensure even tension around the bullet.This also can decrease the bullet run out...making it more concentric...the more every thing is in-line the more accurate a round you have made....

Mac
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Offline handirifle

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Crimping for a 30-30 reload
« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2004, 12:59:41 PM »
johnboy
I would most definately crimp that load.  You shoud do so for ANY lever action load.  Not doing so might allow recoil to cause a bullet to be pushed back too far in the case and dramatically increase pressures.

If you were loading for a Handi, it's not necessary, except some powders burn more consistantly with crimped loads.  This doesn't matter if it's cast or jacketed.

My Handi shoots factory ammo more accurately in the 30-30 than my reloads and I suspect the crimp is a major reason why.

I'd suggest getting a Lee factory crimp die.  This allows the bullet seating die to do what it does best, seat the bullet.  I've never been real happy with crimps from my seating dies.
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Offline Big Blue

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Crimping for a 30-30 reload
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2004, 02:33:26 PM »
I'd like to second that vote for the Lee Factory Crimp Die. Since the first time I've used one, I have bought them for every caliber I crimp. Easy to use, and to control the amount of crimp.
Don

Offline safetysheriff

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Crimping for a 30-30 reload
« Reply #4 on: April 20, 2004, 03:12:14 PM »
Crimping as a separate step eliminates the pushing on the projectile while the crimp is tightening up around the bullet which crimping operation then tries to keep the bullet from moving.....while you are seating it........etc.etc.etc.      

If the bullet is seated, the seating stem backed out, and then the case is crimped with a bullet sitting still you will have less tendency to bulge the neck or shoulder of the brass.     Some of that bulging you may not even recognize without measuring the brass' neck just before the crimping is done.    In other words, set up a die to seat and crimp in one operation, then back it out the thickness of a penny or nickle, then run the cartridge up into the die and back it out and measure the cartridge neck....then run the die down all the way into the press and run the ram up to seat and crimp in one step.    See if you don't get a neck measurement that has increased after the second operation just below/behind the crimp......which can compromise accuracy to some degree.

I do some seating and crimping in one step....but not always, because of the tendency for some dies to cause neck or shoulder problems like I've described.      I am not a fan of Lee products, but I do use their factory crimp-type dies.....seemingly with very good accuracy.    

Good luck.
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