The rimless .280 is way too tricky for home jobs. The problem is a gauging one.
Deej, if we don't go into details, nobody really learns anything.
Seems like anybody who's much into reloading ought to be able to handle this job. And if he messes it up, the worst that happens is that he ends up with a wildcat like the 7mm JRS instead of an improved chamber.
How I'd do it:
1.Get the reamer and the AI go gage.
2. Figure out how much reamer should be sticking out of the breech when finished, and
plan on stopping about 50 thous short. Everybody who reloads at least has an accurate
caliber with a depth gage on the back of it, right?
3. You're going to have to stop reaming when one of the following happens:
a: The 280AI go gage sits flush with the breech.
b: A short factory round (Remington) starts going in farther than it did originally.
My factory chamber will take a Remington 0.003 to 0.004" past the breech, so I
would not want the improved chamber to let one drop more than .006" past flush.
4. When you're within 50 thousandths, stop and check every five thous until you've
got the AI go gage within 0.020 of flush. Then proceed 0.002 at a time until one of the
endpoints in step 3 is reached. Ideally you will end up with a chamber that will accept
the go gage without increasing the headspace on the factory round, but I would expect
the factory round to start moving deeper before the go gage is entirely flush. If you look
at a fired case under a loupe, you will likely see a little ring at the base of the neck where
the 40 degree shoulder transitions into a 17 degree shoulder because the factory
shoulder wasn't entirely removed, but that will not hurt anything.
If you don't take it slowly and end up with a too long chamber, you can still seat bullets into the rifling to safely form cases with a light load, but you should restamp the barrel markings and never fire anything but your own custom formed cases in the gun.
Mitch.