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Like the previous poster related, the marlin 336's can be charge level sensative. I've had several Marlins all w/microgroove bbl. The only one that just would not meet my expectations was a 1894 in .44Mag. with cast bullets (non-gas checked)
A .45/70 (w/ballard style rifling) was the consistently most accruate with all loads but wouldn't do much better than 1.25" with best loads. It was just too much gun for my use, and was a little too heavy; I traded it for a Ruger .22 Hornet!!
I presently have a M-336 in .35 Rem. that is my favorite rifle out of all I have. (certainly not the nicest either!) I like Marlins levers as I'm right handed but shoot longguns left handed due to left dominant eye. Handling is best available w/ ambidextrous guns IMO.
It is finicky, but with the loads it likes, is a real tack-driver (3shots<1"@ 100yds!). I also had a 336-A ('75-76 mfg.) in .30/30 w/24"bbl. Both had similar charactistics:
1. Be sure that both the fore-end band screws are real snug and lock-tited. (be careful, the metal is soft and screws booger easy)
2. Use either Federal or Winchester brass , and trim to "exact" length (Impt. as bad crimp can ruin otherwise good ammo) Always check brass every time after sizing and before priming. Trim to equal lenght of other brass in "batch" if more than .004" longer. Not as critical if you use Lee Factory crimp die (I recommend you do!), but don't allow cases to exceed Max. spec's. Brass is usually good for 5 or so loadingsbefore trimming. Discard after 15x regardless.
3. Powders aren't that critical as long as approiate to bullet weight/cartridge. Best accuracy is usually at about 5% below listed max.
4. Start at 5% below recommended START charges, and work up to max. for gun (this is indicated by extraction becoming "sticky", when encountered- consider 1.0gr below this point to be max. for your rifle)
I'm usually satisfied with 2"-3shot groups @100yds from my lever-marlins, and tend to push velocities till accuracy falls to this point. However, this is my criteria, as velocity is more important to me for flatter trajectories and bullet performance.
I've had outstanding performance from my .30/30's with the following powder/bullet combinations:
125FNHP Sierra/ 35.0gr H322 @ 2,625fps (24"bbl)
130Speer HP/34.0gr IMR4320 @ 2,500fps (est.-22" bbl Rem788-One hole accuracy!!!) Load single in lever w/tube magazine.
150FN Speer/ 31.0gr IMR3031@ 2,350fps (24"bbl)
150RN Hornady/ 33.0gr H4895@ 2,400fps (24"bbl) very accurate too
Best load with .35 for accuracy is with BL-C2
200RN Rem. Cl or 200RN Hornady w/39.0gr BL-C2 @ 2,100fps 1"or less
" " w/41.0gr BL-C2 @ 2,200 1.5"
" " w/40.0 H4895 @2,250 1.5"
180RN Speer w/43.0 H335 @2,500 2" 3-shots
This 180 is a big game devastater, performs better than .30/06 to 200yds.
The .30/30 Marlin is rechamberable to Ackley Imp.. OAL remains same; taper, shoulder, and neck change. Improvement will be 100fps +/-.
No experience with this, but I'm looking for a "clean" Glenfield 30AS (20"bbl w/half magazine to do one of these conversions). If 30/30 AI dosen't please, will re-barrel to 7-30 Waters.
Keep trying with the accuracy, it just takes some experimenting to find combination that causes the right "VIBES" in your barrel.