Author Topic: It looks like GrampaMike's got the bug, real bad! (Read 639 times)

GrampaMike · « **Reply #1 on:** May 20, 2004, 07:07:32 AM »

I believe I do....

Questor · « **Reply #2 on:** May 20, 2004, 08:54:16 AM »

Start shopping for gun safes now.

GrampaMike · « **Reply #3 on:** May 20, 2004, 09:20:27 AM »

Funny that you say that... my best friend just said that to me yesterday... what brand should I get?

Mike

Questor · « **Reply #4 on:** May 20, 2004, 09:40:37 AM »

It depends on what's available in your area. I'm fortunate enough to live near a safe store that had a lot to choose from. I got a Liberty because it had a really nice interior, decent fire resistance, and is built to last. The exterior has a plain finish. It was $1400 installed. That's about $500 cheaper than some of the comparable ones with a fancier glossy exterior.

What I learned in shopping is that it definitely pays to shop around.

Don't get one of those metal cabinet things. Get a real safe. Get one bigger than you think you'll need. Mine has a lot of horizontal shelf space so I can lay my handguns and barrels right on them. Buy it from someone who can install it. Don't hire a piano mover to do the installation, they don't know how to manange safes.

There are two investments that more enthusiastic shooters should make:
1) A good safe
2) A good spotting scope

Good doesn't necessarily mean "most expensive", either. It just means good for your purposes.

Questor · « **Reply #5 on:** May 20, 2004, 09:43:05 AM »

By the way, what do you shoot?

GrampaMike · « **Reply #6 on:** May 20, 2004, 10:55:21 AM »

Ruger SA revolvers (22, 357 Mag, 44 Mag, 45 Colt)
Ruger#3 (45-70)
TC Contender (22LR, 357 Max, 414 SM)
H&R/NEF rifles (17HMR, 223, 357 Mag, 44 Mag)

Thanks for the "Safe" advice, I will do that as soon as I find someplace that sales AND installs.

Mike

Jim M · « **Reply #7 on:** May 20, 2004, 01:02:54 PM »

If you get a safe, be sure to pay attention to the weight and check out your location to see if it needs shored up. You also need to look at the delivery path to make sure the floor will support it. A lot of people don't think about that. My brother in law had so many bullets stored for reloading that he noticed the floor sagging and had to shore it up.

Donna · « **Reply #8 on:** May 20, 2004, 01:24:58 PM »

Hello Mike,

I agree with Questor on the safe, its good insurance. I installed my own safe after it was delivered. Drilled four 5/8 holes in each corner of the safe about 3 inches in from any wall of the safe. Then drilled four holes in my concrete slab of a foundation and sunk a lead anchor in each hole and with several oversize steel washers ran the bolts through the safe in to the anchors. If the safe is fire rated, which it should be, it wont hurt the fire rating being on a concrete floor and greatly increases the security of your precious collection of firearms. But I dont have any idea how professional installer would install a safe; this is just what I did. Good luck to you.

Donna

Duffy · « **Reply #9 on:** May 20, 2004, 04:43:32 PM »

On the safe, look at the size that will fit all your stuff and then at least Double it!

They are also nice for putting your other valuables in while your away from home for extended periods. Good place for vehicle titles keepsake pictures insurance policys, jewlery, coins ect. If a person was ever to build a house, that should be mandatory to build a walk in safe off of the foundation.

GrampaMike · « **Reply #10 on:** May 21, 2004, 03:30:17 AM »

Looks like I better get 2 or 3 safes...

Dusty Miller · « **Reply #11 on:** May 21, 2004, 09:10:26 PM »

I bought a Kodiak safe a few years back and had a bad time getting it to open on a regular basis. So, I removed the lock mechanism and sent it off to Kodiak (Fresno, CA) and asked them to fix it. After a wait of several weeks I gave them a call and got accused of drilling holes in the base plate. Of course I never got a drill CLOSE to that lock mechanism but they wouldn't budge. I then took the door off and drove it downtown (Modesto) to Bill's Safe and Lock and had a new lock installed for a decent price and now it's as good as new. However, I'm dead set against ever doing business with Kodiake Gunsafes ever again.

Questor · « **Reply #12 on:** May 24, 2004, 09:02:07 AM »

Donna, you went beyond what I did. The need for movers in my case was that they had to move it upstairs-- a task I wasn't about to undertake. It took some skilled work to get it around those corners and up those stairs to its final destination.

A Golden Rod air dryer is a good idea. It keeps rust from forming by keeping the air circulating. It's a cheap add-on.

Thomas Krupinski · « **Reply #13 on:** May 24, 2004, 09:27:21 AM »

Mike,

Depending upon how much land you have, for the price of a few good safes you might be about to put up a secure building that will not only be able to handle the firearms, but all of the other stuff also.

GrampaMike · « **Reply #14 on:** May 24, 2004, 09:42:51 AM »

Tom, think you might have a good idea there... will give it some thought. I am in the process of designing a separate building (20x32) to be the woodworking shop. Mike

Thomas Krupinski · « **Reply #15 on:** May 24, 2004, 10:20:54 AM »

Mike,

I built a 36x36 for my shop when I retired and you will have a good excuse to buy a wire feed welder to armor a piece of that with steel from a scrap yard. Steel and concrete will make a good safe together with a couple of good dogs.

Questor · « **Reply #16 on:** May 24, 2004, 11:58:04 AM »

I thought about digging an underground bunker about 1500 feet below the surface, and using blast hardened concreate with a sophisticated ventilation system suitable for defending against nuclear attack. Nothing is too good for my guns. And being deep underground is a great way to avoid being distracted while reloading. There wasn't anything in the zoning laws against it.

But I never got around to it. Maybe next year.