Author Topic: Stevens Model 67 20 Gauge Pump shotgun (Read 6554 times)

Rogmatt · « **on:** May 22, 2004, 07:26:36 AM »

Are parts from Stevens 30 and Stevens 77 like the forearm, stock, barrels, interchangable with the Stevens 67 Pump.Thanks for any help

Rogmatt · « **Reply #1 on:** May 22, 2004, 02:19:20 PM »

It has a top safety. My 10 yr old son saw it at a shop and has been wanting a 20 ga. pump so he asked for it. Plain barrel long (28 or 30") looked like full choke. If i had the barrel chopped & crowned to about 22", would that get me to cylinder bore? which I would not mind. Going to be shooting clays and small game at close range so would rather have the more open bore. It seems to be in good shape. We are going to re-blue with Oxpho, and refinish the wood. Your opinion on durability of this gun and the barrel issue? Thanks for any help & I hope I have not stumped the panel.

papajohn428 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 23, 2004, 07:41:01 AM »

Rogmatt, I can tell you that reliability and durability are not an issue if the gun is anything like mine. I found it used in a pawn shop about fifteen years ago, and it's as tight as the day I got it. The forearm has a little wobble to it, but that's normal. My son and I use it to bust rolling clays on the ground, and the stray magpie or three. I buy a lot of W-W bulk 7-1/2 shells in 20 gauge, probably 400-500 rounds a year, and the gun gets cleaned about once a year, whether it needs it or not. :wink:

Mine came with a long barrel, something like 28 inches, so I had it cut to 20, and a new bead sight put on. So it's basically a cylinder bore gun now, and that's fine with me. Mine, BTW, has the safety in the trigger guard, not on top. I'd prefer the tang safety, if it were up to me.

As for parts interchangeability, you've stumped me, I have never needed parts, so I never looked into it. You could try www.e-gunparts.com and see if they offer anything you need. I have considered restocking it, but I'd be doing that myself, from a suitable piece of Maple. Hope this helps.

PJ

gunnut69 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 23, 2004, 09:51:45 AM »

Removing even 2-3 inches of barrel is certain to remove all the choke.. The Savage pumps you mentioned are all quite similar and there should be some interchangeability.. Of course most parts such as you mentioned are regularly available from suppliers so I wonder why bother.. unless you have something you wish to interchange.. While these are not expensive weapons they seem to work well. I've had several in with damaged ejectors. The ejector is held against the left inside wall of the action by a single screw from the outside.. This screw works loose with some frequency and the ejector is allowed to move inward. The allows the bolt to impact the rear of the ejector and shear off the screw... sometimes also loosing the ejector itself.. All parts are available and a tiny bit of blue Locktite eliminates the problem or at least so it seems. A 24 or 26 inch tube(assuming 28 or 20 inches to start with) would leave a nice sight plain and good balance and would remove all traces of the choke. Screw in choke tubes may be possible but are a bit pricey to install... although they would add to the versatility..

Rogmatt · « **Reply #4 on:** May 24, 2004, 01:45:10 PM »

Thanks Gentlemen, Geat info.

cjcocn · « **Reply #5 on:** May 25, 2004, 02:44:31 AM »

Gunnut69

When you talk about screws holding ejectors in place I am a bit confused. I have a Stevens Model 67 (12 ga) and on the left is my extractor, which is held in place with a spring and plunger.

Are the 20 ga model 67s different? Or were you talking about a different manufacturer?

Thanks! :grin:

gunnut69 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 25, 2004, 09:06:46 AM »

cjcocn
On the Savage 67 the ejector is part of an assembly. The ejector and spring are retained in the ejector box. The entire assebly is retained by the screw I mentioned. If the screw loosens the ejector box(housing) will be sheared from the inside of the receiver. I believe if you'll look at the weapon again or a parts diagram you will see the screw I speak of. The assembly is held together in the ejector box by a pin(sometimes a roll pin).

cjcocn · « **Reply #7 on:** May 25, 2004, 12:06:22 PM »

Gunnut69

Now here is a perfect example of why you can call yourself gunnut and I am simply cjcocn :oops: :oops: :oops: ..... thanks for clearing that up for me!

I see the ejector screw now (I am at home w/ my 67).

Thanks for setting me straight on this!

CJ

Rogmatt · « **Reply #8 on:** May 26, 2004, 01:55:44 AM »

cjcocn, tell me more about your 67 and your experiences with it. Thanks, maybe even a pic. will post his 20 soon.

cjcocn · « **Reply #9 on:** May 28, 2004, 05:00:07 AM »

http://www.hunt101.com/showphoto.php?photo=164482&size=big&password=&sort=1&thecat=

Here is the pic. If it is too hard to make out (lack of clarity) then I can take a better one.

I only received this shotgun last year from a relative that did not want to register under the new Canadian firearms registry laws. I used it last fall and it agreed with me, although I did find that there seemed to be a sticking point during the pumping action.

I had planned on buying another pump, so when the ejector went on the Stevens I was okay $-wise to come in off the lake and buy an 870 when I ordered the Stevens ejector (right in the middle of duck hunting season - man, was I glad that I was saving up!).

When the ejector came in I replaced it, then took the Stevens out for one more hunt, but only fired a few shots as my 870 has a rib on it and I found that I had already adjusted myself to shoot with the 870. I had my 870 with me as well, so switched shotguns before heading off onto the lake.

My better half will start duck hunting this year and I would almost consider letting her use the Stevens, but there are two things that preclude her from shooting with this shotgun. First, she requires a youth stock, and second, I do not want her to learn to shoot with a shotgun that has a sticking point.

I will probably replace the stock and touch up the blueing, then keep it for future considerations.

I should add that, in spite of the sticking point during the pump phase, I did really well with this shotgun and we really got along (as was evidenced by our success with ducks .... :grin: ).

gunnut69 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 28, 2004, 10:05:40 AM »

cjcocn-
There shouldn't be a discernable 'sticking' point in the action of your savage.. I would dig into the action and see what's going on. Where is this hang up. At the initiation of the unlock sequence, during the slide travel or on the return.. If during the unlock phase, does the action unlock a bit then pause, requiring extra effort to continue?? Perhaps we can decipher the problem..

cjcocn · « **Reply #11 on:** May 28, 2004, 10:57:00 AM »

hmmm .... decipher the problem???

Excellent! I will take it with me camping and fire a few rounds to help me remember where the sticking point is. I will post my findings at the end of the trip and we can go from there :grin:

Thanks :grin: :grin: :grin:

gunnut69 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 28, 2004, 03:12:14 PM »

It doesn't stick unless it's fired? How about dry firing, does that produce the hesitation?

Rogmatt · « **Reply #13 on:** May 29, 2004, 04:07:25 AM »

This 20 ga. does not have the recoil pad. Are they available aftermarket? Would the 30, 77, & 67 stock be the same. Looks like it is. Maybe I will check egunparts. I know 20 does not kick much for an adult. But my 10 year old's 20 ga single shot kicks too much for him and he would like a pump with a recoil pad. He is different from my 14 yr old son who will shoot a 10 ga. SS at 13 yrs old and his first shotgun was a 12 ga at 12 yrs old. Trying to keep the 10 year old comfortable until he is bigger. He had quit going hunting & to the range with us because he did not like the recoil, and the .410 to wimpy for him (crazy). So I think I have found the right combination for him now.

cjcocn · « **Reply #14 on:** May 29, 2004, 06:42:14 AM »

Gunnut69

I cycled the pump action and the sticking point is right at the end of the pumping action (when the action is fully open). I will remove the action to see if I can see any wear marks. Other than that I will wait for your response.

Thanks

Rogmatt

It should be a relatively inexpensive job as all that is done is the new recoil pad is sanded down to fit. If there is a smith in your area you may want to call for an estimate.

http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/installrecoilpad.html

It sounds like you are willing to give it a go yourself, so I included the above link that has instructions on how to do it yourself.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Store/StoreHome.aspx

I did not find a listing for a recoil pad specific to your firearm, but the above link will give you alot of choices. Brownells has recoil pads that have an adjustable mounting hole, if need be.

Hope this helps.

cjcocn · « **Reply #15 on:** May 29, 2004, 06:49:06 AM »

http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=589280E&MC=

Numerich lists a stock with recoil pad at the above link.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 29, 2004, 09:59:25 AM »

Sticking 67--
Check to see if the ejector box is dragging on anything. Also remember the ejector is compressed a bit in the ejector box by the pump stroke. This occurs fairly far back in the cycle. Check to be ccertain the ejector retension screw is tight, the ejector is not dragging in the ejector box and the pin that retains the ejector in the box is not dragging on the bolt..

Recoil pad-
I always reccomend the Decelerator pads made by Pachmeyers. The rubber material is softer than the normal rubber used in recoil pads. They are easy to install if you have access to a power sander. A tip- Freeze the pad for several hours before grinding(sanding) to fit. The soft rubber will be firmer and will sand nicer. Also a tiny bit of WD40 will slick up the edges of the pad after fitting.

PAndy · « **Reply #17 on:** June 04, 2004, 01:06:48 AM »

gunnut, I don't very often see discussion on these shotguns. I have one in 12 gauge with the tang safety. With a short barrel, tubes, a paint job, and a Weaver side mount for scope...it is quite the turkey blaster. Except the trigger stinks, both in the amount of creep and also in the shape and orientation. Anyway, did you ever yank the trigger group out of one of these shotguns and play around with it?

gunnut69 · « **Reply #18 on:** June 04, 2004, 08:32:26 AM »

I've never worked the trigger in a 67. Looking at the parts diagram I can see a few design issues but none that preclude at least an improved trigger pull. A decent smith should be able to lighten the pull and clean it up.. This is not a job for an ametuer though.. It uses an extension of the trigger to trip the sear. This usually makes removing the slack a bit of a pain. Good luck!

Rogmatt · « **Reply #19 on:** June 04, 2004, 12:33:11 PM »

GN69 , finally picked up the Stevens 67 20 ga. pump today for my son. 28 " barrel Series "E" .Serial# E430664. does the barrel come off. I don't think it does. It seems to be secured to the receiver. It appears to be Mod or IC fixed choke. Also, is it normal for the brass to stick out of the mag tub about 1/2" and not stay completely in. It cycles fine. We shot it at the range about 50 shells. busted clays. We are now going to to tear it down, refinish wood, reblue. Will post pic when done.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #20 on:** June 05, 2004, 10:58:48 AM »

The shell exits the magazine and is intercepted by the primary shell stop. When the bolt starts moving back the primary stop releases and the shell is spit onto the carrier. The secondary shell stop keeps reamining shells totally in the magazine until the lifter is raised by the bolts forward motion and the bolt pushes the shell off the lifter in to the chamber. When the bolt is nearly locked the secondary stop releases the shell in the magazine and it is stopped by the primary shell stop. We are ready to start over... Sounds much more complex than it really is..