C96 bbl

[maddmaxx]

Have a C96 Mauser .30 in excellent shape, except the barrel. Someone put a liner in it at one time or another, and did a lousey job. How should it be fixed? If at all possible, I would prefer a liner, but one that stays in place. Would acra-glass work on this? I've only had experience w/it on .22's. Any ideas welcome!        maddmaxx

[John Traveler]

Howdy, Maxx!

I've relined C96 barrels, but used only soft solder, not Accraglas or epoxy.

If your barrel is already re-lined, re-boring to 9mm or .38 Super is out because it's too large.  You have to reline.

The old liner is removed by softening the solder or epoxy heating in a 400 degree oven and driving it out with a rod.  A propane torch also works if you are careful.  Try to protect the receiver locking surfaces from torch heat.

This is a relatively hot pistol cartridge, and a close fit is required.  If the old liner came loose, try cleaning ALL the old epoxy off with heat and solvent, fluxing and tinning BOTH the bore and liner, and resoldering.  It's not that difficult, but the solder must have clean surfaces to adhere.

Let us know how it works.

John

[Mikey]

Maxx:  there is a place in New York, on Long Island (can't remember the name now) that reworks the Broomhandle.  I don't know if they re-barrel but that sounds like it would be an option.  Every now and then you see their add in the Shotgun News and I will keep an eye out for it for you.  

John Traveler has given you some real good advice and with that in mind I do not know if it would be better (or possible) to re-barrel or to reline it as John advised.  I'll keep looking for that ad.  Mikey.

[gunnut69]

The mauser pistol is made with the barrel integral with the top frame.  I have seen them rebarreled but would think the tolerances, metal left after bored and threaded for the barrel, are pretty tight.  Relining is a much better option in my opinion, plus you keep the pistol looking as original as possible.  John has pretty much given the advice I would have.  Soldering in a liner for a 9x19 is a bit touchy.  The higher pressures create more stresses on the liner and failures happen..  Good luck..  
ps-one could always send it to redmans.  They make most of the liners anyway and do really fine work.

[John Traveler]

I've seen C96 rebarreling jobs and have done a few myself.

Gunut69 is right...rebarreling the C96 barrel extension and a replacement barrel is a bear of a job.  Not much room for machining error.  Plus, that barrel extension was forged from relatively mild steel.  It's rather soft.  That's why re-barrels are usually silver soldered in place.  The long barrel shank resulting from cutting off the old barrel where it's maximum diameter the extension. Use a modern steel rifled blank made from 4130 or 4140 steel.  I examined one re-lining job that used a mild steel liner.  A dozen shots later, the chamber was bulged, ruining it.

John

[maddmaxx]

Thanks for all the input.  Always glad to get it on some new problem. John, you said "silver solder". Did you mean tin, or high temp silver solder?   MM

[John Traveler]

MaddMaxx,

"Silver solder" as used in gunsmithing work is a silver-bearing high temperature melting solder.  Not the "soft solder" tin-lead alloys used for sheet metal or electronics work.

Brazing is also a correct term to describe silver soldering, because the joint metal comes out with a brass color.  It's an old process, even used by Springfield Armory in making it's post Civil War .50-70 rifles from old .58 caliber barrels.  For the C96 re-barrel use silver solder for strength (smaller surface area).  For the re-line, use soft solder (more surface area).

John

[maddmaxx]

Hey, thanks again. I'm getting psyched up and itching!