MSP ha! That's a good one. Do as you please.
Some of the details are as follows.
The main section, the "T", is made of 1 1/4" sq X 1/8" tubing. The rest of the pieces are 1"sq X 1/8". I'm at work so I cannot give out all the lengths right now.
The center main tube is 12" long. The cross main tube should be 14" long. I say should be cause mine is 13" (don't ask why) and I feel 14 will work out better and not be too long. The tubes are square cut and butt welded together. I have some aluminum picture frame corner clamps that I use to hold it all in alignment and tack weld as much as possible before removing the clamps.
The adjustment bolts are cut from all thread rod. I THINK the front ones are 6" total length, and the rear one is 5", those are 5/16" rod. The main screw for the elevation is made from 3/8" thread rod. The handles (except for the clamp for length adjustment) are made fron 1/2"1/2" square tubing. I drilled the appropiate size hole and used the same clamps to align them, then welded all around it. The nuts are grade 5 flange nuts, spot welded onto the tubing. Make sure you drill those holes larger than the bolt. Ie, for 1/4" bolt go at least 5/16" hole to allow for some off center placement of the nut when welding.
The one plastic handle is a 1/4" rosette handle with the appropiate 1/4" bolt pressed into it. This was for convienience.
I use a lot of different tools to cut with, but most of the square or angle cuts are done with my Radial Arm saw using a metal cutting blade. If you do not have this capability, no biggie just square cut everything and weld accordingly. For instance, the 1" tubing for the rear rest had a 45 degree notch cut in it, then bent to a 90degree angle and welded. The square cut does the same thing, but leave a few more edjes to trim and leaves an opening at the end of the tube. No big deal.
The main adjustment screw turn in a 3/8" "T" nut (you'll need two of them), most often used for woodworking. I flattened the barbs on it and welded it onto an "L" shapped piecs of metal with a 7/16" hole cut in it. I also welded a piece of 1/4" thread rod under the "T" nut to hold the elevation arms onto it.
I drilled a 1/4" hole in the main elevation arm to allow the bolts for the other end of the arms to bolt to. Use nylon washers at these points or you'll make it bind when adjusting and screw up your paint job too, trust me.
The second "T" nut goes near the front end of the thread rod through another "L" bracket that holds the thread rod in place. This "T" is brazed in place, TO THE THREAD ROD, NOT THE "L" BRACKET. The other end of the thread rod is held in place by the hole drilled through the verticle post that the elevation arm pivots on. There is a nut on the end of this rod with a nylon lock ring in it to keep the clearances the same.
I used 5/16" steel rod for the rear cradle and 1 1/2" flat metal for the front. I'd suggest to make the front at least 2" metal for better/more seating area for your sandbag.
Well that's all for now gotta get back to work.
If ya need more holler, you know where to find me. :grin:
