Author Topic: Powder question.  (Read 1039 times)

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Offline JohnDY

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Powder question.
« on: June 29, 2004, 08:44:06 AM »
I am getting ready to start casting my own bullets. I went and ordered all the stuff I need; furnace, moulds, sizing dies, ect.  I will be casting Lee's C309-170-R for my H&R HandiRifle and the CTL312-160-2R for my two 7.7mm type 99 WW2 Japanese service rifles.  Both bullets will be cast using wheel weights.  I intend to develop hunting loads for all three rifles using cast bullets.  What would be the best powder to use for these calibers? I would like to the same powder if possible to cut down on expense.  Any loading data for 7.7's and 160-grain cast bullets would also be appreciated. My Lee loading manual doesn't have any loading data for my Lee mould. Go figure.

Thanks.
JohnDY

Offline FAsmus

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Re: Powder question.
« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2004, 09:47:19 AM »
John,

J:  I am getting ready to start casting my own bullets. .

F:  Go to The Cast Bullet Association web site and join it. They'll give you (sell you?) an excellent book about bullet casting that will answer all these and any number of additional quiestions you will want answers to as soon as you heat up your pot for the first time.

Good afternoon,
Forrest

Offline Leftoverdj

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Powder question.
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2004, 05:07:16 PM »
John, don't count the C312-160-2R out in your Handi either. The near twin C312-155-2R sized .311 shoots wonderfully in my .308.

You did not mention the caliber of your Handi. Doesn't much matter because one of the faster rifle powders will do well in all three of the Handi .30 cals and in the 7.7.  3031 and 4895 are two good choices. H 335 and BL(C)2 will work well. To cut powder costs even more, you can use surplus. WC 844 and WC 846 will work well.

For cast bullet loading info for the 7.7, see the .308 cast bullet info in the first half of Lee's Second edition. Cast bullets are almost always shot at much lower pressure than jacketed and you don't need real exact data. The lower end of the .308 data will work fine.

It has been suggested that you join the Cast Bullet Association. I don't see that membership being of much use to anyone shooting a Handi and two Arisakas. We get them through here trolling for members from time to time and they are way too snotty for me.
It is the duty of the good citizen to love his country and hate his gubmint.

Offline JohnDY

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Powder question.
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2004, 02:12:34 AM »
Leftoverdj,

Thanks for the advice. My Handi is in 30/30.  I have been shooting cast bullets in it that I got off eBay. There were 170g plain base bullets and I was using a load of 7g of Unique. Not a hunting load but were fun to shoot. My kids when thru almost all of the 100 rounds I had loaded up. Can't wait to try out my own.  This will be my son's first year deer hunting and he will be carrying the Handi. :) So we will be shooting a lot this summer.  Practice makes perfect.

As for my 7.7's. I am going to try the starting load in my Lee manual for cast bullets for the .308 Win. Think I going to try either 3031 or BLC(2). Whichever I can get.

I called my friend/auto mechanic/hunting buddy/hunting land owner last night to tell him I will be heading over his place to get some wheel weights and he reminded me he has a .36 .45 and .50 black powder and 30/30 and .30/06 to feed. Looks like I will busy.  :eek:
JohnDY

Offline haroldclark

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Cast bullets
« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2004, 04:47:18 PM »
Hello you guys,

I shoot a bunch of Cast bullets.  I have cast 1605 bullets in the past two afternoons.  These were mostly 30 calibers except for 120 9mm bullets.

For the 30-30 I have used 12.6 grains of Blue Dot with a 150 and a 170 grain gas checked bullet.  I shot the 170 grainer today out to 385 meters in a 16" Thompson Contender barrel.  I hit a bunch of the Turkeys with that load.  It is comfortable to shoot and that makes it more fun.  More economical too.

Another 30-30 load is 20 grains of Reloader 7 and the 170 grain bullet.  It moves a little faster.  Out of my old Savage Bolt action, the load Chronographs at 1648 fps.

I shoot a French Mas 7.5 X 54mm with cast bullets.  I use the 170 with 22 grains of IMR 4227 at 1998 fps.  It is very accurate with modest recoil.

I used gas checks on all my rifle bullets.

30-06  I use the 170 grain Saeco #315 bullet cast of wheel weights with 2% tin added as all of the other bullets listed.

25 grains of Reloader 7 will launch the bullet so accurately you will be amazed at 1800 fps.  See data below:  I copied this from my spreadsheet.

742 Remington 30-06   25 gr Rel 7/Saeco 301 210 gr GC    at 2012 fps
742 Remington 30-06   35 gr Rel 7/Saeco 301 210 gr gc at 2176 fps
742 Remington 30-06   25 gr Rel 7/Saeco 315/ 170 gr. GC 1811 fps

My 30-06 is a Remington 742 Semi Auto.  Most people would laugh and they do, until the see it shoot.  It has been named "The 742 BR" by the locals at our range.

Keep casting those bullets.

Harold Clark

Offline JohnDY

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Powder question.
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2004, 01:19:55 PM »
Thanks for additional Info. I'm going to print this tread out. Reading the post I came up with a question. I've got a 10 pound melter. If I melt down 10 pounds of wheel weights how much 50/50 solder should I add to get the needed amount of tin?

BTW, took the day off and took a coworker fishing. No keepers but still beats work. Got home and UPS guy had left something by the door.  :grin: It was my bullet casting stuff I had ordered. Looks like I may give it a try tomorrow. I will try and post pictures of my first attempt.
JohnDY

Offline Nobade

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Powder question.
« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2004, 03:10:08 AM »
Well, since nobody has mentioned IMR 4759 I guess I will. That stuff (and its close cousin AA5744) work well in an incredibly wide assortment of rifle and pistol rounds and usually provide fine accuracy with cast bullet loads if you're not trying for max speeds. As for the solder, you want to shoot for a max of 2% tin in your melt. It doesn't take much, try 1/4 pound to start and see how you like the fillout. Don't add too much since it won't work any better and will inhibit hardening if you're water dropping your bullets (which I recommend for rifle bullets)
"Give me a lever long enough, and a place to stand, and I'll break the lever."

Offline Leftoverdj

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Powder question.
« Reply #7 on: July 03, 2004, 06:47:46 AM »
John, avoid melting WW in your casting pot. Use a junk cast iron or steel pot to do cleanup in first. You don't want any of the crud to get into your pot. Cleaning out a clogged spout is a nasty chore and you don't want that stuff getting in your bullets either.
It is the duty of the good citizen to love his country and hate his gubmint.

Offline haroldclark

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Powders
« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2004, 04:28:26 AM »
Nobade is correct about the IMR4759 being an excellent and versatle powder.  Aslo, AA XMP 5744 is excellent too.  I have used both in years past.  I think the 5744 has changed slightly in the recent years.

Both of those powders are a shot cut stick type of powder.  They feed rather well through most powder dispensors and exceptionally well through the Dillon Machine.

Offline calvon

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Casting lead bullets
« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2004, 06:06:40 AM »
Lead is a carcinogen. Avoid ingesting it into your body. Be sure you have good air ventilation while casting. Wash your hands after handling lead.

Get a copy of Veral Smith's book, 'Jacketed Performance with Cast Bullets'. It covers casting from a to z.