Author Topic: What grit sizes for fire lapping???  (Read 1466 times)

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Offline bufflernickl

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« on: July 14, 2004, 09:17:36 AM »
I want to fire lap my 6.5 Swede barrel. I understand the technique, but havne't been able to find what grits are normally used. I have the bullets I will use, and an assortment of abrasives; I don't want to buy a kit.

I have Al Oxide in 25 micron, 12, 7, and 5, plus Ce Oxide in 3 micron. For reference, 25 micron is a step finer than 600 grit carborundum. I expect that 20 bullets each with impregnations of 25, 12, and 5 would work out, but would like to have *some* idea of what the kits use.

I have carburundum in coarser grits than above, but I expect that these are *too* coarse.

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Offline gunnut69

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2004, 04:25:18 PM »
The NECO kit in the Brownells catalog shows grits of 220-400-800-1200.  I'm assuming the 220-and 400 grits are for restoring badly damaged bores. I'd not reccommend anything courser than 600-800 usnless there's real damage alrerady there.
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Offline bufflernickl

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2004, 11:42:30 PM »
Thanks, GN,

This barrel looks pretty good; just has a century of crud that JB and Sweet's  won't quite remove. Based on your information, I'd guess my planned sequence of 25, 12, 5 will work out well. I might need more bullets at 5 micron than at the coarser grits.

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Offline Mikey

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2004, 02:51:08 AM »
bufflernickl:  be very careful not to ruin the barrel of that rifle with too coarse a grit.  Drop on down to the Veral Smith forum and read some of the posts there about firelapping barrels.   Smith will tellya that using the wrong compound, shooting the lapping loads too fast or not cleaning after each round will ruin that barrel.  

Also, Marshall Stanton of Beartooth Bullets has written very informative volumes about firelapping barrels and the kits he sells contain Clover Compound, a 320 grit abrasive.  I would not expect a coarser abrasive to firelap any quicker but rather ruin the barrel.  HTH.  Mikey.

Offline gunnut69

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2004, 08:18:47 PM »
Firelapping is a pretty extreme method for cleaning a rifle. I'd give some of the ammonia based solvents a try first. Something like Sweets 7.62...  and use a brush of course. My experince is somewhat limited but most of these old Swedes were made for long 160 grain bullets fo the throats are plenty long as is and firelapping will push that throat even longer.
gunnut69--
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"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline bufflernickl

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2004, 02:48:16 AM »
Thanks for your concern, GN.

I really plan only to polish the bore. I put in over an hour polishing w/ JB, and then some long soaking with Sweet's.

All this work is just to find out if the barrel is capable of good shooting, as all other Swedes I've been associated with would do. If this is a good bbl. then I will rechamber to 6.5-284 just to get a tight neck and new shorter throat.

I plan to bump the test bullets out to meet that old long throating before test shooting with the current chamber.

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Offline gunnut69

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2004, 05:43:50 AM »
That sound like a plan. What rifle are we talking about now. I would surely advise against a 6.5-284 on a Swedish 96/38 action. I wouldn't feel comfartable with that combination. Too much pressure in that action.  Not that the steel wouldn't hold but if anything lets go the gas handling characteristics of the action are not to good. You will most likely end up with a face full of gas. Pray you've safety glasses on,...  Perhaps a turkish 98 with the small thread diameter barrel..  on a 98 action. In any case best of luck!
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline bufflernickl

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2004, 06:02:43 AM »
GN,

How I wish I had a Turkish or a Siamese action... no, it's a '96 Swede. Fortunately, I am the one who gets to control the chamber pressure, not the ammo mfgrs.

have you looked at SAAMI on the 6.5X55? The rifle is "rated" for the same pressures as the 98. If it will take these with the orig cart then it will take the same pressures with the wildcat. Thousands have been converted to 6.5-06, and shot at higher pressures than I'd ever use with the -284, and I've never heard of one letting go. Further, the '96 breech lockup is to that of the later Mausers; only the lack of the rear safety lug woiuld indicate any "weaker" action, and that lug comes into use only in an already disastrous overpressure condition, so it is irrelevant to determination of safe working pressures.

So, I'll be safe (there are 3 other Swedes in the family and we reload for all them) with my wildcat; still, if you want to ship me that Turkish action in a hurry, I'll be happy to use it.. I'll even buy a new barrel for it :-)

Thanks again/buffler
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Offline savageT

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2004, 06:43:28 AM »
I pray you will think about firelapping only as a last resort!!!!

Can't you assemble a home-made electric cleaning rod (1/8" dia. steel rod with simple electrical tape wrapped @ bottom and a couple more along the bore length to isolate the rod from the bore) using two C-cells, a couple wireleads and clips.  I've used household ammonia to go after the copper and powder fouling in my Swede and it worked quite well.  I'm sure it would do allot less harm to that 6.5mm bore than the firelapping. I'm even afraid to use J-B Compound on mine????
Jim
savageT........Have you hugged a '99 lately?

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Offline bufflernickl

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #9 on: July 16, 2004, 07:35:44 AM »
OK, Savage,

you've got my attention. I think of bore lapping as a way of improving accuracy, and I had thought of fire lapping as another way of lapping. Your caution made me think that maybe my assumption was faulty.

Here's what I found:

Making the Surplus! Homemade Electronic Bore Cleaner

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/copperout/index.asp

Reckon I'll give it a try as it is easier, cheaper, and safer.

Cheers/buffler
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Offline savageT

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #10 on: July 16, 2004, 07:49:55 AM »
Quote from: bufflernickl
OK, Savage,

you've got my attention. I think of bore lapping as a way of improving accuracy, and I had thought of fire lapping as another way of lapping. Your caution made me think that maybe my assumption was faulty.

Here's what I found:

Making the Surplus! Homemade Electronic Bore Cleaner

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/copperout/index.asp

Reckon I'll give it a try as it is easier, cheaper, and safer.

Cheers/buffler


Great Idea!  Let us know how it works out.  The bore cleaner featured in this article is a little more complicated than the one one I made but Knock Yourself Out!  I found that I still had to use allot of patches after the elec. bore cleaner to rid it of smut left behind.  I used Ed's Red and it worked VERY well.  Good Luck!!!
Jim
savageT........Have you hugged a '99 lately?

Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most.

Offline gunnut69

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #11 on: July 16, 2004, 09:34:55 PM »
I must differ with your assurtions of the strength of the small ring actions. Of them the swedes are the best but they simply lack the larger diameter of the 98 design both in the outside diameter of the ring and the barrel shank diameter.  But that's not the real problem. the 96's don't handle escaping high pressure gas as they should. They don't have the deflection ledge on the bolt shroud, the baffle on the firing pin, or as extensive a venting system as the 98. If a primer lets go you may well loose an eye.  Also one must take into consideration what might happen should that weapon get into the hands of someone using stronger loads.. At least the lack of factory ammo makes the latter less likely. Also I must admit to never having seen a 96 mauser altered to a 30-06 length round. I can't see how they would fit..  Have you an web address for the SAAMI information you quoted, I would vertainly be interested in doing a bit of research on that sight.  Thanks and good luck!
gunnut69--
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"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline bufflernickl

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2004, 10:09:38 AM »
GN,

as I mentioned on another thread, I've been thinking how to answer your reply. I hope always to base my assertions on data that is both factual and correct; something at which maybe I don't always succeed. But I think I can for this reply.

Let me say again that I appreciate and respect your concern for safety. That is a fine attribute for a moderator, and of course for any gun nut. Below, I'll put your reply segments in quotes since the forum doesn't seem to allow selective font changes.


"I must differ with your assertions of the strength of the small ring actions. Of them the swedes are the best but they simply lack the larger diameter of the 98 design both in the outside diameter of the ring and the barrel shank diameter." Later segment: "Have you an web address for the SAAMI information you quoted, I would certainly be interested in doing a bit of research on that site."

I've combined two sentences that weren't together in your post, but they work well together with my answer. The SAAMI information was gotten from a "conglomeration site" like Steve's Pages or Hawk's; I didn't bookmark it, but indeed, you'll enjoy researching either :-) Here is the relevant section of the chart:

6.5x55     45,000
7mm Mauser     51,000        
7mm Rem Magnum    61,000       
7mm Weatherby Mag    65,000       
7mm-08    61,000       
70-30 Waters    45,000       
7.62x39    45,000       
8mm Mauser    35,000

Well, it didn't format particularly well, but maybe it will be usable. This is one example of cold facts conflicting with our dearly-held notions. You see, the "stronger" large-ring Mauser was "designed" for a lower pressure cartridge than were the small ring ones (tongue-in-cheek). Of course, LR rifles were later chambered for 7X57. But look, the 7mm has the highest operating pressure of any of the three shown. And, that cart. was used in the 93 and 95 Mausers. While it is unarguable that a larger receiver ring makes a stronger action, at least in the receiver ring :-) Strength of that ring isn't really relevant. PO Ackley (forget which book or article) tells of experiments in strength of chamber sections. As I remember, his experiments showed that a very thin cylinder of barrel steel, 1/8" or less, as I remember, was sufficient to contain the combustion pressures of a modern high-velocity cartridge. And, this was during the era of the .270Win with its 65,000 psi pressure limit. It is plain that the diameter of the receiver ring (in Mausers of the series we are discussing) has no bearing upon whether the action is strong enough for any cartridge we're going to put in one, plus a great deal extra strength left over for accidents. Finally on that topic, when did you ever read or hear of a Mauser action being blown apart in the reciever ring *except* from a plugged barrel or an inadvertent charge of bullseye instead of a normal-for-caliber powder? It just don't happen!!!! In the 60s I saw varminters shoot 6.5-06 rifles made from any of the common Mauser actions, day-after-day, using charges that flattened the primer like it had been hammered on an anvil... had to be over 65,000psi. They weren't even close to rupturing the barrel cylinder, let alone the receiver ring. So, let's use these fine small-ring actions and have fun; they are plenty strong.


"But that's not the real problem. the 96's don't handle escaping high pressure gas as they should. They don't have the deflection ledge on the bolt shroud, the baffle on the firing pin, or as extensive a venting system as the 98. If a primer lets go you may well lose an eye."

Here you are exactly correct... they don't handle escaping gas as well as the 98. However, why does gas escape? Standing by my assertions above, I'll aver that it isn't from broken actions. It is *nearly always* from poor (excessive) headspace and/or lack of attention to the condition of cases. The Mauser action retains the cart case to below the position of the web. So, escaping gas always is a result of carelessness. Shame on me if I let my cases stretch and separate. If I do, I'll have to rely upon shooting gases to save that eye. So, on that point, I'll continue to shoot my Swede, 91, 93, 95, etc. and recommend them to others.

"Also one must take into consideration what might happen should that weapon get into the hands of someone using stronger loads.. At least the lack of factory ammo makes the latter less likely."

True that last!!! But, he'd have to be shooting some mighty special loads to get into trouble, if what I've said above is credible.


"Also I must admit to never having seen a 96 mauser altered to a 30-06 length round. I can't see how they would fit."

They've been done in their thousands, likely tens of thousands; all the discussed actions are the same operating length. We are mostly past the day of wholesale sporterizations and conversions on surplus actions... it casts more these days to do a full sporterization (even without rechambering) than to buy a good used Win70 or Rem700. But, in the 50s and 60s, this was cheap shooting; everyone has a few of these in his rack. I've seen every Mauser from the 91 Belgian/Argentine (commonly rechambered to .303-06, though folks mostly didn't bother with the 7.65 mm bullets; just fill 'er up with .30-06 fodder and lay down your fire!!!! :-) to the 98, and in every caliber from .22 to .375, and likely smaller and larger were done as well. Another one of my conversions is a 93 SR action rebarreled to .225Win, and the loads I shoot are easily 65,000psi. I do watch my cases.

It has been a long time since I have examined a 6.5-06 based upon a 96/38 rifle, so I went to the shop last night and cycled a few .270Win rounds through my Swede (of course, the bullets wouldn't chamber). They worked a treat. I seem to remember that with longer bullets in larger calibers the ejector has to be ground back to allow a loaded round to pass the front ring upon ejection. That might be necessary with smaller calibers as well if the bullets were seated out really far. Also, I remember that for some conversions, the magazine box had to be lengthened, but that ain't gonna be needed with a 6.5.

Anyway, I hope you keep the spirit of safety alive, but I also hope that you don't allow unnecessarily-stiff requirements on the topic to keep you from enjoying some good, clean, safe fun :-)

Best/buffler
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Offline clodbuster

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homemade electric barrel cleaner
« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2004, 02:07:33 PM »
Bufflrnickle  I built one of those contraptions and it worked great.  It really shows which guns I wasn't getting clean.  My Savage99 in 308 whick I shoot quite a bit and all of a sudden started going alll over the paper, well, it was full of it.  Fouling that is.  I was using Ballistic silvertips and the black stuff coating the bullets didn't come out with normal cleaning.  I can't wait to get out to the range with it.  Can't find anything small enough to plug a .22 barrel with, anyone got an idea???????????
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Offline gunnut69

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2004, 09:53:21 PM »
If I reemember Ackleys book found the mauser to handle high pressures the poorest of all the military rifles. It didn't blow up but the logs imprinted and the action was ruined at pressures well below what even the springfield took in stride. He also as have most of the old guard gunsmiths said the small ring actions were unsafe to rebarrel to high intensity rounds. I have said before I've seen few 98s blown up, but I've seen a bunch ruined by high pressure. The closest to blowing a mauser I've ever seen was a 93 that had the bolt face cracked completely around it's circumference. It was still being used! Yes it is safe to rebore a 6.5x55 to a round with as large an increase in powder capacity as the 6.5-06. If you load to sane pressures it really matters little how much space the case has. Kinda like putting a 300 WinMag in a 94 winchester. It could be done and as long as the prssures were kept to 30-30 levels it would be safe, but to knowingly create a dangerous situation makes you responsible for the damages. I to have seen 98s stretched to take long rounds even to the 300H&H but to do so the magazine much be cut out in front and the bottom locking lug abutment shortened. Was it safe. Not really. A check showed the lower lug abutment had set back, imprinted and the upper was containing the pressure. The reason for the inquirey was the top lug was imprinting also. The rifle was ruined. It did not blow up. I believe it was unsafe. Whoever built that weapon had failed to allow any safety margin and the result was dangerous. The swedes are great rifles and are fairly close to the 98 in absolute strength, they just lack the 98s safe features. That makes them unsuitable for high pressures. Will the hold. Probably at least for a while. Swedish steel is good stuff..(some spanish 93-95's have questionable steel) perhaps even better than the mauser supplied steels. I would still never reccomend it be rebarreled to a high pressure cartridge. To do otherwise is not being 'overly stiif'. It's the normal caution any gunsmith has to bring to the trade. I sincerely hope that your experiences with 65,000 psi loads in small rings, or large rings, are always pleasant, BUT I'd reccommend you never shoot with out safety glasses..
gunnut69--
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Offline bufflernickl

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What grit sizes for fire lapping???
« Reply #15 on: July 19, 2004, 01:43:24 AM »
Good morning GN,

Yes, good stuff. We use glasses when shooting *anythng* except primitive archery and atlatl :-)

I plan to load this 6.5-280 Imp 40* (.270/.280 case I'm using is a bit longer than .30-06 case) to 52-54Kcup maximum. I don't need all the performance that the case offers, so my working load might be lower than that. I'm confident that the action will stand such pressures indefinitely.

Well, today's the day I'm going to cut metal. I'll report results in a new thread!!!

Cheers/buffler
Cheers/buffler

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