Author Topic: 40_X recoil lug in a rimfire??? (Read 501 times)

greer · « **on:** July 22, 2004, 10:28:19 AM »

I'm rebarreling an old CMP 40-X .22 and was wondering if it would be better to just leave the recoil lug out and shoulder the barrel against the action which has been squared up. Seems like that would be one less variable. The action will be bedded into a Stith Predator stock . Thanks. greer

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 22, 2004, 12:20:59 PM »

Most custom accuracy smiths use a specially prepared recoil lug so the lug has a serious effect on accuracy. The only prep the lug/washer needs is to lap or mill the front and back paralell and flat. While a 22 has little recoil there will be some. Perhaps a bedded into the forearm lug with a matching notch in the bottom of the barrel reinforce. with the small amounts of recoil a simple square notch in the bottom of the barrel and bedded full would take the load off the action bolts. I've always found that accuracy suffers if the action bolts touched the stock.

greer · « **Reply #2 on:** July 23, 2004, 02:07:07 AM »

Thanks for the reply. If I use the factory lug I'll have it surface ground. I may also just mill a small notch in the bottom of the reciever and let the bedding form a reverse lug. greer

gunnut69 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 23, 2004, 06:14:13 AM »

I see no reason that wouldn't work. The factory part can easily be salvaged and reused though. As long as the side are flat and parallel it's no big deal. Most of the time though you'll find that the recoil lug/washer is WARPED from the barrel being screwed in so tight. On the production M700 a lot of the lugs are cupped by the stamping process used to make them.. I'd be tempted on a 22 rimfire to mill a slot in the barrel reinforce. The rule as I was taught was to modify the heapest and easiest part to replace. It wouldn't take very much.. You might also consider a barrel bedded rifle. The barrel is bedded then epoxied to it's channel. The action needs no recoil lug the barrels is glued to the stock. It won't be coming out until it's time to replace it... With a 22 target rifle that may be a long time indeed. When it comes time to remove the metal from the wood take advantage of the differences in thermal expansion characteristics. Freeze the hole works and the metal will shrink out of contact with the epoxy. High heat will also cause the epxoy to soften.. Good luck with the project.

greer · « **Reply #4 on:** July 23, 2004, 04:35:38 PM »

gunnut69,
I got the threads cut on the barrel today and milled a 1/2" by 3/16 slot in the bottom of the reciever. I always thought that if you had a good sturdy forearm and a heavy barrel that glueing the barrel in and possibly floating the action should be pretty effective. I think the trend now is long,smaller diameter barrels and tuners. That's what this customer has in mind.
Thanks again, it's awful nice of you to take the time to respond to as many questions as you do. greer

gunnut69 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 24, 2004, 12:16:32 PM »

Good luck! I try to get on once or twice a day. Some might say that's too much!!