Light 308 bullet load wanted

[35Whelen]

I've been shooting cast bullets in my little FR-8 .308 carbine for some years now. I've used the 311291 moulds exclusively;  a RN for general shooting, cast of water quenched wheelweights and a 311291 HP cast of air-cooled wheelweights for hunting (with this bullet, my 13 year old daughter has killed 3 deer with 3 shots in the last 3 years). Either bullet with 18-20 grs. of Alliant 2400 shoots magnificently, better than jacketed bullets in many cases. ANYHOW, I'd like a recommendation on a light bullet load. Maybe a 100 gr. +/- roundnose or flatpoint plainbase at around 1000-1200 fps. Any suggestions?
  Thanks!!
   Greg

[Nobade]

There are lots of bullets designed for the 30 carbine that will work. Lyman 311410 comes to mind if you want as plain base design. The Lee 115gr. flatnose gascheck design works well also. For loads, around 6 grains of Bullseye or similar or 10gr. Unique or similar will get you in the range you're looking for. And no fillers, please.

[Leftoverdj]

I second the Lyman 311410 suggestion. It has shot very well for me in such loads out to 100 yards. Lighter bullets have pooped out by 50 yards.

If what you are looking for is a squirrel load, the Hornady swaged 90 grain .314 SWCs sized to .311 give 1" or less groups at 25 yards. Think I was using 8 grains of Unique in the .308 case. That's attractive since you don't need to buy a mould for the little bit you will shoot such loads.

[haroldclark]

35 Whelen,  I have used a 170 grain gas checked bullet for 15 years with 10 grains of IMR SR 7625 (shotgun powder).  It will go about 1200 fps from a 24" barrel.  The bullet that I have used is similar to Lyman 311041 that is a 173 grain gas checked flat nose.  I used it in a 20" Sako Carbine rifle and 1" groups were the norm.

I have even used 13 grains of 7625 with equal success.  I always allow the bullet to engage the lands.  Your bulet may not engage.  

The longer bullet will stay stabilized better at low velocities.

Lots of luck.

Harold Clark

[Leftoverdj]

I just kicked the .30 cal Tumble Lube mould group buy thread back to the top for you. If you are interested, you could get in touch with Lar and ask if he ordered any extras.

A bunch of us went in together to design and buy a plain base mould especially for cheap plinking with .30 cals. It's a bit heavier than you had in mind, but it should be a lot more accurate at the longer ranges.

[35Whelen]

I dug out an old Ideal 311467 mould I had nearly forgotten. Casts a 187 gr. Loverin type bullet. Rather than invest in a new mold I think I'll try this one. I undersyand the Loverin bullets can be very accurate.
 Thanks for the help, guys.

[haroldclark]

Now that sounds like a real great bullet.  The Lyman has a pointed/rounded nose.  I have a Saeco #315 which is of the similar style, except that it has a round/flat nose.  Mine weighs out at 173 grains with wheel weights and Linotype mixture.  

I think you will be very happy with that bullet design.  You should use a gas check as it is designed, though.  I have tried going bare bottom and it will work with gallery loads, but for 1500 to 2000 fps, you gotta have the gas check.

Harold Clark

[Larry Gibson]

35Whelen

If you don't want to cast I second the vote for the Hornady 90 gr swaged SWC.  If you cast look at Lee's 314-90-TL, particulary in 6 cavity.  I started out with the Hornadys but have the Lee mould now and I can cast quite a lot of bullets very quickly.  I spray them with Dillon case lube and then size them .311 for use in .308 bores (.314 for use in .311/312 borses).  I push them through the Lee sizer base first which keeps the bases square.  I mostly use recovered range lead to cast them with.  I shoot them by the thousands.

In the .308 I load them over 3.2 gr of Bullseye.  These will run about 900 fps out of your FR8 (they do out of mine).  Accuracy, given a good bore will be 1 to 1.5" all day long at 50 yards.  Great for small kids, plinking, and smalll game hunting.

I use deadicated cases (well marked) that are fire formed.  I drill the flash holes out with a #28 drill which lets the flash reach the powder quickly with very uniform ignition regardless of powder "position".  It also prevents the primer explosition from pushing the case forward decreasing the headspace dimension of the case and causing misfires after several uses.  I also use a .31 M die after neck sizing the cases.  

Larry Gibson

[Leftoverdj]

Larry, how do you mark your altered cases?  I've never found a method I was completely happy with.