Ok, here goes....
Given that Colt is too 'spensive (which I agree with BTW) and Rugers don't suit yer taste yer left with clones. Absolutely all of them are pretty good guns these days! I am particularly fond of the Uberti Clones which are imported under a number of brand names, including EMF. I've got a pard who often shoots clean matches with the Cabelas Millenium Revolvers too! (now that's cheap AND good) USAF is making Colt clones in America, but prices are still a bit steep there.
However, there other considerations! Like Remmies!
I shoot 1875 Remington Clones from Uberti and absolutely LOVE them! And I think EMF is still selling the 1890 Remmie clones, for the pard who likes a shorter barrel with a less muzzle heavy feel and the pointability of the Remmies! There are also the Open Tops and Conversions of the 1860 Army to consider as well as the break top S&Ws. I think they are asking WAY too much for the S&Ws though. And finally there are the 1858 Remingtons with the R&D conversion cylinders to turn them into .45 Colt shooters! Cool but the cylinders cost more than the guns! :eek:
Actually, the best suggestion I can give you is to go to a couple of shoots, take a box of CAS loads in .45 and try some of the guns there. Rest assured the pards will be glad to let you take their guns fer a short spin! Especially if yer nice enuff to leave the empty hulls with the gunowner! :lol:
Regarding POA/POI and single actions: Any gunsmith worthy of the name can adjust POI on a single action. It's a simple process of barrel turning and adjusting the front sight height! DON"T try to adjust POI by bending the front sight, it WILL break if you do this. Period!
CAS ranges: Most revolver targets will be well over 12" x 12" (and I mean WELL over) and they will be located anywhere from 7 to 20 yards from the shooter. Actually 20 yards is rare believe it or not! Carbine targets will be from 10 to 50 yards most of the time, with most being about 15 yards away. Scatterguns will be shooting from 7 to 20 yards tops!
That Rossi: You will never go wrong with one of those! They are the work horse of CAS! The 92 action is bull strong too, capable of handling .44 mag pressures and up. In fact they are currently being chambered in .454 Casull! In .45 it would make you a great dual purpose gun for deer hunting and CAS. (terminal ballistics of warm .45 Colt loads in a carbine are nearly identicle to 30-30 loads at 100 yards) The biggest drawback to the 92 is that they are a butt pain to strip. I only do a complete tear down of mine a couple of times a year. However there is a quick & easy method that I recommend for regularly schedualed cleaning. Place a fired cartridge case in the chamber, close the action, then clean from the muzzle like a front stuffer. (don't try this trick with a bottle necked chambering, you'll end up getting a jag stuck in the case!!) Then remove the butt stock (one screw) and hose out the action with your favorite cleaning solvent, spray with your favorite gun oil, and put the stock back on! Pretty simple! :-) By the way, if you get that Rossi we can put you on to a website or two that will explain the trick to complete tear down & reassembly and even how to slick the action up so it's smooth as butter.
Scattergun: I'm going to deviate from common advise here. I still think you should go with a twelve bore! My reasoning is, the smaller framed 20 gauge guns seem to kick as hard as the 12 gauge, especially with the warmer loads needed to put down popper targets. In twelve gauge you get a heavier gun that seems easier on the shoulder when loaded with those cheap field loads from Wally World. And the 3 dram loads in twelves will put em down with more authority than a warm 20 gauge. Another place I tend to step away from the crowd is in scattergun barrels. I like a full length barrel gun! The sawed off guns may make a difference to the speed demons at the leading edge of CAS, but I've yet to see the average pard who really benefits from using a short barrel scattergun. Also I see a lot of pards who've bought sawed offs end up putting another $150.00 or more in them to have screw in chokes installed. With a full length barrel in modified and full you're ahead of the game there. With poppers I hammer the first with the modified barrel and then take my time getting on the flyer with the full choke barrel and grab those bonus seconds everytime!
I reckon a good shooter would do just the opposite and use the full on the popper and the modified to nail the bird just as it comes out of the launcher!
Those are my thoughts! Worth purdy much wat ya paid fer em! :wink: