Installing new barrel on Colt New Service Revolver

[stuffit]

I have obtained a replacement barrel for a .45 Long Colt New Service barrel.  The old barrel sort of "unscrewed" itself, for reasons yet undetermnined.  On inspection there was a defective forcing cone, hence this project.  The replacement is an original N/S barrel, and in good condition.  The threads are correct for the frame, and starting the barrel is easily done.  However, it does began to get kind of tight about 2/3's the way in.  Now I'm an old shooter (65), and reloader etc, but my metal working skills are not extensive to somewhat understate the case.  I hope some knowledgeable person might give me some pointers in regarding to what tools and equipment I will need to do the installation of the new barrel.  On the surface, it appears simple, but I was lucky to get the replacement barrel, as they are not common, and I well know that there are possibly many pitfalls that I, in blissful ignorance might fall into.  Any information or suggestions will be kindly taken.
Best Regards,
stuffit

[gunnut69]

Installing a barrel on any revolver is pretty much the same.  the reason your barrel starts getting tight before it's seated is the threads.  They taper the threads just a bit to help with positive alignment.  The barrels shoulder is faced off to allow the sight to come up verticle.  This should leave the barrel extension a bit too long to allow the cylinder to close.  I use a pull thru cutter to shorten the barrel extension to allow the cylinder to close and to set the barrel/cylinder gap.  The throat is cut the same way with a tapered cutter pulled by a drive rod through the bore. The depth of throat is set with a caliber specific plug guage. All of these tools are availabel from Brownells.. since the barrel on the revolver loosened and unscrewed irself, I'd definitely check the barrel ring on the frame. Overly hot loads among other things can crack the frame at that point.  allowing the barrel to become loose and unscrew..  This cracking can be quite difficult to find and a magnofulx is a  good idea.  Lacking access to that one can soak the front revolver frame in gasoline or mineral spirits for a time.  Then remove from the bath and wipe dry. The crack will show as the solvent creeps from it onto the dry frame metal. Not as good as a magbaflux but very telling.  The tooling can be substituted for by a lathe and a bit of knowlesge but if only doing a single piece, is a bit expensive.  It's the kind of job I usually reccomend be taken to a smith because he's likely to have most of the tooling in shop..

[stuffit]

gunnut69,
Thank you for your kind response to my inquiry here.  It is all good information and very useful.  I had little expectation of receiving such a comprehensive response at all, much less so soon.  Thank you again
Best Regards,
stuffit