Stuck Cases in 454 SRH

[Patriot_1776]

I need a diagnosis on a problem that has plagued me with my 454 Super Redhawk.  After firing Hornady factory ammo, the cases seem to stick quite a bit. :?   When I reloaded using H110 starting loads from the Speer Reloaders Manual #13, they still stuck, so that rules out any sort of pressure problem.  I changed powder brands to Win. 296, which has less oomph than H110, and the cases still stick but not as bad.  I think the problem lies in the roughness in the cylinder chambers; because after cleaning throughly with a nylon brush, and vigorous scrubbing, they still seemed to have a rough appearance.  Also the fired casings have a scratched appearance too.  Could it mean I need to have the cylinder chambers polished slightly or is the problem elswhere?  Your responses on this problem will be greatly appreciated.  Patriot

P.S.  I am using the 300gr. Hornady XTP bullets, and I don't think these are the problem because even as was previously stated, Hornady factory loads also stuck pretty good. (Either way, I have to use a wood shooting block to pound the extractor rod, which I really don't like doing.) :!:

[De41mag]

Patriot;

Your problem is a common one in Rugers in the 454 cartridge. I've seen it stated in various shooting mags. I can't remember if it was the green finish or that you can shoot 45LC's in them, which in a Freedom Arms they recommend against it. Any way I'd call Ruger and ask them about it. They are pretty good about helping their owners out. I know I've had very good service from them in the past. Good Luck.

Dennis  

[Graybeard]

The problem is common to both Taurus RB and Ruger SRH in .454 Casull. Happens almost exclusively with Hornady made cases. They make the brass softer than anyone else does. They claim this is to the benefit of the reloader as softer brass lasts longer. Me I don't think so.

You really have two choices in this. You can polish the chambers to a fairly high polish and the problem will go away. Or you can dump the junk Hornady brass and get some Star Line. With my RB I took the latter approach.

I've gone over this problem at length with the folks at both Hornady and Taurus. Not Ruger as I don't own one. Neither will budge. Both say the other needs to make a change. Neither is going to.

I fired ammo from the same box in the FA83 with absolutely no sticking but in the RB it has to be knocked out. No other brand of ammo or cases have stuck in my RB but Hornady. So far as I know only the Taurus RB and Ruger SRH have this problem as the chamber walls in both are usually pretty rough on purpose. This reduces back thrust.

Just buy you some other brand of ammo and/or cases and the problem will go away. Or polish your chambers smooth and use the Hornady stuff.

[oso45-70]

Patriot1776
Look at it this way, If you are using starting loads now and are having trouble just think whats going to happen when you make some monster loads. Like Greybeard throw that brass away and get some thing that you can enjoy. You could very well screw up your crane and i know you don't want to do that. Get you some star brass and enjoy you hand cannon.
Good luck..............Joe..........

[Patriot_1776]

Thanks all for your help and input on this problem.  One thing I did forget to mention is that I do use the Starline brass and they still stick somewhat.  1,000 apologies for this late detail, but does that still mean I would need to have it looked at? :?   I love this cannon and really want it to perform flawlessly; any further points are welcome.   Patriot

[Graybeard]

If Starline brass is sticking then you either have seriously flawed chambers or you're loading way too danged hot. What do the insides of your chambers look like? Are they extremely rough? What load are you using?

[Patriot_1776]

Graybeard,

      The inside of my chambers looks like hundreds of very fine hairline rings 3/4 the way down, like a finely machined tube of metal, you know?  Then, the other 1/4 the way to the end of the chamber/cylinder is very smooth and quite shiny.  Also, on the other 3/4, there is a very slight "frosty" look, like just fired and you see a sort of "dusting" of carbon, but its not carbon; it is as clean as I can get it in there.  The loads I used are the starting loads from the Speer reloading manual #13. They are: 32gr. H110,  w/300gr bullet; 30gr. Win. 296, w/300gr. bullet; the bullets are the Hornady 300gr. XTP.  What makes me further think it is not pressure, is when I deprime that casings. The primer does not look as if it was stressed in any way and the casehead stamps don't look deformed or changed.   Patriot

[Graybeard]

The loads I used are the starting loads from the Speer reloading manual #13. They are: 32gr. H110, w/300gr bullet; 30gr. Win. 296, w/300gr. bullet; the bullets are the Hornady 300gr. XTP. What makes me further think it is not pressure, is when I deprime that casings. The primer does not look as if it was stressed in any way and the casehead stamps don't look deformed or changed. Patriot

I think you had to have misread that manual, 32 grains of H110 is some kinda warm load. For sure NOT a starter load. More like a MAX load. The Hornady manual maxes at 31.4 grains. I'd rather trust the bullet maker than some other bullet maker to tell me what to load. Also remember that the Hornady 300 XTP has two different crimping cannelure points. The one closest to nose intrudes more on case capacity and loads for the other cannelure are NOT SAFE when crimping in it.  I've used it but sure didn't like it. Accuracy wasn't as good as the one I settled on which is 29.5 grains.

BUT your real problem is the chamber area. Your description of it is exactly what I expected. Polish it smooth and your problems will go away. You should be able to do this using an oversize bore mop with JB Bore Paste. Chuck it up in a drill and run it in and out a bit. JB is a really mild abraive so you shouldn't be able to do any real harm but do go slowly and look often to see when you've got it smooth. Don't use any really aggressive abrasives or you might go too far too soon.

[Patriot_1776]

You should be able to do this using an oversize bore mop with JB Bore Paste. Chuck it up in a drill and run it in and out a bit. JB is a really mild abraive so you shouldn't be able to do any real harm but do go slowly and look often to see when you've got it smooth.

Ok, I'll give it a try.  By the way, what size bore mop do you recommend, and where is the best place to order JB Bore Paste?  Thanks a lot :grin:  Patriot

[oso45-70]

Patriot_1776
If you have some bore cloth, Cut some strips and wrap it around a 45 cal
swab and it will do the same thing, But check it often so as not to do too much.

Another thing i forgot to say yesterday, I to think your loads are a little hot. If you have another manual i would do some more checking to make sure your not too hot. The only time i have trouble with mine is if i push it too hard.

Good luck..........Joe..........