Browning 1885 Stock Repair/Refinish

[CheapShot]

I own a low wall in .243 which is my main deer rifle. The other day I took it out to the range, and unfortunately the gun was knocked off the bench and the forearm of the stock cracked. It is a small crack at the schnabel tip. The wood didn't break off, but I could peel it back with my hand if I so desired. A couple of questions: 1.) What would be the best method to glue this back ( what type of glue, etc.) 2.) while I am at it, and because the finish is scratched in a couple of places, what would it take to lessen the gloss of the heavy poly finish Browning uses? I am not thinkng of stripping the finish, but perhaps sanding it lightly and applying a more satin finish. 3.) How complex is it to take the stock off the Model 1885? I know the inner workings of the gun are a nightmare, but what about simply removing the stock?

Thanks for any advice.

[gunnut69]

I plan on writing an article for GB's ezine on stock repair.  I use the slow set DevCon twin tube epoxy from WalMart..  Mask the forearm completely except for a very narrow strip -1/8  on each side of the crack.  This will prevent the epoxy from damaging the finish which is inevitable if the masking tape is not used.  Using craft tooth picks (larger than norm and flat, tapered) pry the crack open slightly and insert a toothpick to keep it open.  Mix a bit of the epoxy and and using a toothpick as a dropper allow a tinybit of the epoxy to drizzle slowly into the crack.  Hold the stock in a vise so that gravity will pull the glue into the furtherest recesses of the crack.  When no more will run into the crack, use a compressed air blow gun to force the glue to the deepest recesses of the crack.  Then remove the toothpick(s) holding the crack open and clamp the it completely shut using surgical tubing wrapped around the wood to close the crack..  Wrap several times.  The more wraps the more pressure is applied.  When the crack is completely closed stop wrapping.  When dry sand the glue down lightly using the tape to help protect the surrounding finish.  A very sharp knife may be used to remove some of the excess glue if down just after the glue kicks over and is still a bit rubbery.  Remove the tape and sand the stock with 220 open coat paper lightly to level the finish.  If there were knicks in the finish that didn't penetrate and dent the wood, they can simply be treated as one would a chip in an automotive finish.  Sand lightly with a block to feather the edges of the chip and blend with the rest of the finish.  Give the stock a caot of polyurethane.  I prefer the rub on variety as it's much easier to use.  I apply with my hands just as I would oil.  After it's dry any defects will stand out glaringly.  Pollish them out with 0000 to 000 steel wool.  When perfectly smooth a couple of coats of poly will tie the finish together.  If you prefer an eggshell finish, buff lightly with 0000 steel wool and apply a wax to the finish.  Does the wood have any dents or knicks?  If so we can talk about removing them before the finsih touchup.  One last thing..  Polyurethanes use materials added to them to improve their resistanct to sunlight.  These material actually tint the poly a tiny bit.  Sometimes the different materials will show up the patched areas.  A couple of final coats given to the entire stock as the final procedure will blend all together and make our repars nearly impossible to see.  I the differences are great enough one may have to put a couple of coats of finish on the buttstock to match the colors.  Be sure to rough up any poly finish with steel wool prior to top coating and wipe the steel wooled surface with a rag dampened with mineral spirits to remove all traces of oil.,.  Good luck... and watch for the article, I'll try to explain some of the tricks I use to repair damaged stocks.