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Offline borg1

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Cleaning regimes
« on: September 30, 2004, 11:02:40 AM »
I have recently adopted a new cleaning regime that i thought i'd get opinions on.

After shooting with the barrel still warm, i run a couple of patches from breech to muzzle with Butch's bore shine (ammonia based cleaner).  I'll try to get most of the fouling out, and then follow BBS with a few patches soaked with Kroil so that it will penetrate any remaining fouling, making it easier to remove it once home.  I've talked to a few folks who have said i must use something to neutralize BBS (due to ammonia i guess) or else it will continue to cut.  Some recommend bore scrubber, but this stuff has chlorine-based compounds in it.  As ammonia is a chlorine based compound i fail to see how it would neutralize BBS.

SO -- is following BBS with Kroil necessary to (or actually useful) neutralize any BBS in the bore?  Any other ideas?

Anyway, i do use Kroil after cleaning to protect bore until i shoot again and i highly recommend it.
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Offline Mohawk

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Cleaning regimes
« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2004, 03:04:46 PM »
Hey Borg,

    I think everyone has their own cleaning method. Me, I just shoot the darn thing until sighted-in(only had to once, still shoots great 2 deer and 4 hogs later). After it is shot at the range or in the field I just alternate wet dry patches with WD-40 or Rem Oil until clean. That is it. I guess I like simple, because it works for me. Heck, I still shoot the 150gr. Remington Core-lokts(green box ammo) in my .280 Handi for all my game animals and never had a problem. This includes whitetails, hogs, and mule deer. So, I'm probably no help but gun cleaning solvents and solutions have not progressed past Hoppes #9 and cotton patches in my conservative Republican opinion.... :-)
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Offline savageT

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Cleaning regimes
« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2004, 04:44:22 PM »
I believe with the low concentration of ammonia in Butch's Bore Shine (below 5%) that any good solvent based bore cleaner will neutralize the ammonia.  Actually water is the only neutralizer, but then you're stuck with getting rid of the water!  So I use a good bore cleaner (Ed's Red, or Hoppe's #9) after using any ammonia based cleaner and then coat the bore with CRP, or Kroil as a good penetrating oil preservative.
Jim
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Offline Stan in SC

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bore cleaning
« Reply #3 on: September 30, 2004, 05:25:52 PM »
I shoot a lot of milsurp rifles and my cleaning habits for them have lapped over into my modern rifles and it seems to work good.
I use 50/50 ammonia and water in the bore.Follow that up with Ed's Red and then a final patch with Kroil in the barrel.I don't have any build up of copper.
The final Kroil patch thru an already clean barrel is then used to wipe down the outside of the rifle giving a very light coat.
I do not use WD40 on my rifles.It is not a lubricant,it is a solvent.
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Offline Mohawk

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Cleaning regimes
« Reply #4 on: September 30, 2004, 06:52:21 PM »
WD-40 is a lubricant. I'm reading the can. It is not a solvent.
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Offline Haywire Haywood

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Cleaning regimes
« Reply #5 on: September 30, 2004, 11:05:27 PM »
I'm lazy.  There.... it's out.  I've been cursed with that affliction for a long time.  I wish it wasn't so but ya gotta work with what you're given.   :-)

My BP rifles don't get shot much for just this reason.  Too much of a pain to clean and the rust resulting from letting them sit dirty for a day or 3 is unacceptable.

In view of my disability, I use Wipeout almost exclusively on my smokeless rifles.  Plug the breech with my finger, spray it in from the muzzle till my finger is foamy and lay the rifle horizontal overnight.  The next day (or the day after) I run  3 or 4 dry patches down the bore from the breech end to push all the crud and foam out and I'm done.  One oily patch down the bore then wipe the outside down with same patch and put'em away.

Ian
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Offline Mitch in MI

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Cleaning regimes
« Reply #6 on: October 01, 2004, 01:19:14 AM »
Quote from: Mohawk
WD-40 is a lubricant. I'm reading the can. It is not a solvent.


John Kerry is a hunter and supports the 2nd Amendment to the Constitution. I'm reading his official web site. :P

Seriously, WD40 is a water dispersant, its purpose is to work its way between metal and water. The two main ingredients are kerosene and DMSO.
You want lube? Use Rem Oil.
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Offline Mohawk

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Cleaning regimes
« Reply #7 on: October 01, 2004, 03:05:34 AM »
I read the Rem Oil can, too. It says protectant and lubricant. The WD-40 can says protectant and lubricant. But yes, I've heard all the "horror" stories about WD-40. But, I think that it has more to do with it not being a "gun store" lubricant. Just seems shooters don't like it because it is readily available at any grocery store. I have a old Remington Mohawk 600 .243 that has not been cleaned with anything but WD-40 since we obtained it in 1980. There is not a speck of rust and bluing is 99%. Action is all original and fuctions perfect. Same goes for old police armory model 19 S&W .357 revolvers that have had 15,000rds + of cheap, dirty .38's through them. I still carry one on duty. Unless your gun is in a climate controlled environment(AC), it will get moisture and, as has been stated, it separates water from the metal. Rem Oil is good, but since I shoot their ammo I don't feel I need to spend anymore money on something that does not offer significant advantage, if any, over my grocery store WD-40 just because it has Teflon. Just my experience :-)
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Offline fortress49

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Cleaning regimes
« Reply #8 on: October 01, 2004, 05:23:44 AM »
Hi Borg1,

Not going to offer any recommendations on cleaning, but your statement of ammonia being a chlorine based compound is not correct.  Ammonia has the chemical formula NH3.  Chlorine is Cl2.  Ammonia is on the high end of the PH scale being very basic, while Cl2 is on the low end of the PH scale being very acidic.  So, if a chlorine based solution and an ammonia based solution were mixed, they would neutralize themselves. That is why a bore scrubber if it is chlorine based will neutralize an ammonia solution.  However, in large quantities, this should not be done for safety reasons.  That is why you are not supposed to mix bathroom cleaners such as Parsons ammonia (NH3) with Comet (chlorine based).  The two mixing release toxic fumes.  In a rifle cleaning situation, the amounts are so small that there is no safety concerns other than to do it in a well ventilated area.
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Offline Mac11700

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Cleaning regimes
« Reply #9 on: October 01, 2004, 10:30:49 AM »
When at the range and I'm shooting for groups...I'll have a boresnake with me and make 3 passes thru it between groups...if I have a-lot of fouling and copper in it after I get home...(usually I don't) I'll clean with CR-10 and coat with Rem-oil...if you really want to get the copper out it's a good product to use...and I've found after cleaning with it several times...I get less and less fouling by using it regularly...


Mac
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Offline borg1

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Cleaning regimes
« Reply #10 on: October 01, 2004, 01:58:12 PM »
fortress,

quite right on the chemical make up.  my bad.  its been awhile since i had chemistry class.

Thanks for all the responses...
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Offline Sourdough

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Cleaning regimes
« Reply #11 on: October 01, 2004, 05:05:41 PM »
Call me lazy, but I clean my guns once every six months or so.  Once after break-up, and once before freeze-up.  I shoot some almost daily, especially my Handi 06.  To clean them I use Hopps No 9, a wire bursh, and WD-40.  Due to temp extreames I do not use any grease, or oils.  The WD-40 is used to spray everything before wipping down and putting away.  The WD-40 evaporates leaving no residue to gum up or slow down the action when cold.  Due to the low humidity here in the interior things don't rust.  If I take a gun to the coast, I oil it well first.  But that is rare.
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