Dayton Traister cock-on-open kit for Swede Mauser

[MGMorden]

Hi.  I have a sporterized Swede Mauser that I was thinking of converting to cock-on-open.  The Dayton Traister kit for this on Brownells lists it as including a new cocking piece and a new striker spring.  On the Dayton Traister site, they have the kit including those two and a new trigger as well, but all parts are also available seperately.  

Now, my Mauser already has a Bold Optima trigger installed so I don't want to  replace that.  I also have an extra-power Wolff striker spring installed.  It's working well so if possible I don't want to replace it either.  I was just wondering, are any of you familiar enough with this kit to know whether or not the replacement spring is required for the conversion to work.  If it isn't, I'll just get the new cocking piece.   Thanks.

[savageT]

Ask Mikey to PM you.....I know he's had experience in converting a Swede to cock on opening.  Good Luck, I wish I had another Swede like that to sporterize myself.
Jim

[Larry Gibson]

MGMorden

I have installed perhaps 12-15 of them, some for myself with most of them for others.  I currently have three SR Mausers that I've converted, a M96, a M95 and a M1916(93).  Two have replacement triggers and one original military.  I have never had a problem with any of them. All conversions I've done have not exhibited any sign of a "weakened bolt" as is claimed happens.  The conversion is easy enough to do if you understand the function of cocking on opening.  A bench grinder and Moto tool with appropriate bits is all that is required.  It helps to have a M70 bolt handy for comparison and as a model.  Go slow and grind the cam surface as close to that resembling the M70s as you can.  Polish the cam surface well after shaping.  Also polish the cam surface on the cocking piece and makes sure the surfaces mate up correctly.  The top of the cocking piece will have to be set back for the safety to engage also; just shape it like the top of the original cocking piece and the safety will engage as required (remember the safe cams the cocking piece off the sear slightly).  I use a very fine lapping compound on the threads and then work the bolt (assembled) with no trigger installed in the action about 150-200 times - then I clean it an lube before final assemply.  It really smooths things up and bolt lift (cocking) is much improved. I have found the new striker spring not to be necessary on the M96.  The lock time of this conversion is very simular to that of the M70 and I've not had any problem with misfires using the original striker spring and cocking is much easier.  It is well worth the effort to do on any sporterized SR M93 - M96 Mauser.  Hope this helps.

Larry Gibson