Author Topic: Another cleaning question before I start (Read 1324 times)

TOMMYY01 · « **on:** October 14, 2004, 07:57:48 AM »

Well, I got TC #13 bore cleaner, TC natural lube 1000 plus, and Knight breech plug grease. After I remove the breech plug, do I go ahead and use the bore cleaner? Followed by the natural lube 1000 plus and grease up the breech plug and basically that's it? I want to start off right and just keep the same regimen. :? All of this stuff above is all natural. Like I said I haven't fired it yet. I 'll take it to the range monday. I appreciate your help again.

tommy

savageT · « **Reply #1 on:** October 14, 2004, 01:32:03 PM »

tommie,
Please, Cardinal Rule in muzzle loading has always been "make sure everything you use is non-petroleum based"......Bah Humbug!
I say if you want to clean and lube properly, use the best products and stick with what works. If you like petroleum based lubes, then just make certain to clean the bore with a degreaser like windex or alcohol before loading it up with powder. Before loading the first time after cleaning, always snap a couple percussion caps off to make certan it's clear and ready to load.

Jim

MSP Ret · « **Reply #2 on:** October 14, 2004, 02:19:34 PM »

I had a friend who knew all there was to know about shooting, hunting, and cleaning guns. He shot one of my ML's a few years ago and liked it so much he went out and bought one and shot it. He cleaned it after shooting the BP with Hoppes and a brush the wiped it down with oil on a swab. A couple of months later when he told me about his new gun (better and more expensive than mine of course), I asked him how he had cleaned it and tried to tell him the proper way to clean a BP firearm, with lots of hot water and a bit of soap. He said he cleaned it just like he cleaned his rifles and shotguns and would not listen to me. The next fall we went to the range together and he complained he had trouble loading his gun and saw that mine was easier to load and the ball did not have to be hammered down the length of the barrel. Well it wasn't the patch being too tight, his whole bore was so pitted and eaten up it was a waste. He has since purchased a new in-line (about $500!!!) and uses all-natural lube and cleans with hot water as I suggested. I can still shoot as well as him with my 15-20 year old TC Renegade!!!....<><.... :?

P.S - Can't use Huntsmans or Sidekicks here in Massachusetts!!! Any of you people that think you might vote for Kerry, think about this, if that habitual liar gets in, he will have your guns as well as mine (good luck!) as soon as he can get the UN in to try to take them!!! If you do not believe this look at Australia (Theresa Hienz is involved politically through a familial "straw" and financially in that debacle). Then look at what is happening in Mass!!! Our fine Gov. has called for Kerrys resignation as Senator but Kerry ignores him and it never gets any national press... :x

ogo · « **Reply #3 on:** October 14, 2004, 06:38:12 PM »

MSP Ret has very very good advice ,clean with hot soap and water,and most important advice''''''IF you would like to keep cleaning that gun.Vote for Mr Bush.****************ogo

bubba · « **Reply #4 on:** October 15, 2004, 12:38:54 AM »

I have had guys bring me their guns when they have had problems. In my area I am known as the muzzleloading guru. They would tell me their cleaning ways and would use the latest and greatest bp solvent. Anyway to make a long story short, a bucket of hot water and soap and I would show them hot ineffective their solvent was when the brought me a supposed clean gun. It has worked for years and will continue to work. Stick with what works and it will keep working.

TOMMYY01 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 15, 2004, 01:39:36 AM »

Well, I just got through with cleaning both ml. The staghorn first. I cleaned it before I put it away. Or so I thought. Anyway, I put some patches with wonderlube 1000 plus. the first few got what stuff I didn't get the first time. Then to my amazment, it was cleaning the rust out that I did not know was there. I kept that up til there was no more rust. NO MORE PETRO PRODUCTS IN MY ML! Used cva breech grease for the breech plug and put it away. Next was the sidekick. Used tc#13 bore cleaner and there was alot of dirt that I got out. I was surprised that a gun that has never been fired was so dirty. Then, I used the wonderlube 1000 plus on it. Then finished it off with breech plug grease. Now I wait for monday. First the doctor, then get the cat's annual visit, and the off to the range. I'm going to take both to the range. I'll just make sure the staghorn is on. I know you should start with 25 yds. But I might try 50 for my sidekick instead of 25. What would you all suggest?
tommy

nrb · « **Reply #6 on:** October 15, 2004, 02:08:10 AM »

I have several mls and have evolved in my cleaning procedure. First, you need to know what you are cleaning. Years ago we only had blackpowder and derivatives and caps for charging and these give corrosive salts as products. You need water to flush out these salts and the natural lubes did well to help neutralize and residual. Today we have better choices in noncorrosive powders and 209 primers so that the residues after fireing are not as corrosive. I still flush with hot water but I now use modern lubricants for the bores and breech plugs as well as the rest of the metal surfaces. I have had no problems with modern lubes and I recommend them.

best , nrb

TOMMYY01 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 16, 2004, 12:47:48 PM »

I'm curious, you guys say to clean it with hot soap and water. Earlier you said to not use water because of it getting it it\nto the pores. So what is the deal? :? I want to make sure I can season the barrel so it will last me a long time. Give me some feed back , please!
tommy

Primer · « **Reply #8 on:** October 16, 2004, 02:07:41 PM »

TOMMYY01

I know that a lot of this seem contradictive,and confusing....but it isn't bad once you realize that there are 2-3 schools of thought on the BEST way to treat the barrel on a muzzle loader. :roll:

Truth is: Most of them work just fine,.. as long as one uses reasonable care and judgement while cleaning the muzzleloader bore.

The one thing you/I want to avoid is trapping any water into the micro-pores present in a steel bore. This can usually happen when moisture is present and one TRAPS it in the pores by coating over it with oil or bees wax/oil (like Bore Butter). Not a good thing.

On my side lock guns, I use hot soapy water to clean, then rinse and dry best I can while barrel is still warm. ( don't let sit around while you eat dinner :grin: before finishing this project or barrel will rust) Next ,I follow almost immediately with a very damp patch of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (drug store for a buck fifty).
I do this so that any molecules of water lingering inside barrel will be saturated/replaced with alcohol. A few dry patches and alcohol has displaced any water and flashed off......also stopping any rust from starting.

After this process, you can have at it with your Bore Butter coating/ or your favorite high tech oils with teflon. ( I personally prefer the latter as feel that they chemically offer better corrosion protection than bees wax with olive/mineral oil. This is after all 2004!

For my N.E.F.....thats a different story because I prefer loose 777 synthetic powder and clean my scoped barrel (off the gun) with Rusty Duck Black Off solvent most of the time...dry...and finish with Break Free CLP for storage.
Soap & water also works just fine as long as you dry and alcohol the barrel before applying your trusted final coating.

Only thing to remember if you use todays modern oils is this: Wipe bore before shooting with a solvent ( alcohol, lighter fluid, paint thinner,...even windex,windshield washer fluid, vodka :grin: ,or anything that will remove traces of the oil ).

Sorry for the novel,but hope this helps.

lik2hunt · « **Reply #9 on:** October 16, 2004, 03:52:10 PM »

Rubbing alcohol.....yea...wow great idea. I never thought about it but I use it for so many other applications to displace moisture. I still prefer no water in my barrel, but mine is the blued version and I wouldn't hesitate to use soapy water in a stainless one.

bubba · « **Reply #10 on:** October 17, 2004, 12:35:25 AM »

Mine are all blued and I use hot soapy water. Just have to be sure it is droed well afer. I have never had a rusting problem.

sgrogg · « **Reply #11 on:** October 18, 2004, 01:05:56 PM »

So, suppose I'm using a scoped sidekick with 777 and powerbelts. How would you recommend I clean that setup? In addition to the questions about soap & water, solvents, etc., I'm also wondering how you would do it considering this is a scoped gun. Would you have to remove the barrel? Clean from breech end or bore? Etc., etc. If you guys would give me a detailed step by step instruction I'd really appreciate it. Also, what does the Huntsman/Sidekick owners manual have to say about cleaning. Thanks in advance for your help. Sgrogg

nrb · « **Reply #12 on:** October 19, 2004, 12:33:10 AM »

I do not remove my scope for cleaning my Huntsman. First, I remove the loading rod, unscrew the forend, and remove the barrel from the action. I keep the scope lens covers on to keep them free of spatter. Clamp the barrel, muzzle down, in a WorkMate with a catch pot beneath the muzzle. Apply wrench to breech plug and unscrew taking care not to touch scope. Put breech plug in catch pot. Spray liquid cleaner (your choice I use Simple Green) into breech and over breech plug. Use old toothbrush to brush away grease and dirt. Fit wet patch to cleaning rod and push through from breech to muzzle int catch pot. Repeat as necessary. When all gunk is loose, unclamp barrel take to cellar tub and run HOT water into breech and out muzzle, lots and lots. Dry hot barrel, lube, and reunite Oil everything.