Author Topic: GPR .54 Flinter (Read 692 times)

Good time Charlie · « **on:** November 08, 2004, 02:33:07 PM »

My GPR .54 flinter came this morning. I cleaned it up and took it for a test run. I fires much slower than my TC Hawken.50. It fired every time, about 40 shots. But so slow as to be distracting. I think I will drill the vent out to .62 thousands. Maybe that will help. Anyone had this problem with the GPR? Any help will be appreciated.
Old Charlie

Winter Hawk · « **Reply #1 on:** November 08, 2004, 03:24:14 PM »

I noticed that mine is definitely slower than my T-C Pennsylvania Hunter. I drilled out the touch hole to 1/16th inch but that didn't seem to make much difference. It is a very reliable rifle though. I have thought about coning the touch hole liner to see if that speeds things up.

I am not enamored by the patent breech. I took the breech plug off a while ago and noticed that it has a very definite shoulder at the front. I wonder if the powder back inside the breech gets compacted when loading? The other problem with this set up is that you can't clean all the way back other than sloshing water through, unless you take a smaller brush on a cleaning rod to fit in the breech.

-WH-

Birddog6 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 08, 2004, 11:47:35 PM »

I think if you cone the inside & outside of the vent liner & also drill out the vent hole to 1/16" or 5/64" drill you will see a considerable difference. As a comparison to a T/C I can't tell ya cause I don't own one, but I do know it made my GPR allot faster after this mod.

I drilled mine to 5/64th and shoot 75 grains of FF Goex, .017 pillow ticking, .535 Hornady RB, Lehigh Lube and it will group under 2" groups off the bench at 100 yards, which is far better than I can shoot it off hand.
This load will easily shoot thru a deer at 75 yards as I have done so many times.

Naphtali · « **Reply #3 on:** November 09, 2004, 04:57:51 PM »

Compare the lock with an L&R Late English lock and you'll understand. If you are right-handed, I strongly recommend you acquire and L&R RPL (replacement) flintlock for the GPR. That plus a Chamber White Lightning touch hole liner will solve the problems.

Birddog6 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 10, 2004, 04:52:31 AM »

Everyone looks at the situation differently. To me, putting 1/3 more $ into a $300 rifle is not the way to go yet. There are literally thousands of Lyman GPR flinters being used today using original locks with no major problems. No, it is not a $ 100. lock & it will never be. But it can be fully functional & still work fine. I have had no major problems with mine, it is all original, it has about 5000 shots thru it and lots of people do the same.

Do the vent mods & try it, it usually cures the problem. That and a lil practice with it & learning what makes that particular lock work best. Usually 1/2 pan of powder, freshly knapped flint, don't have Any powder laying in the vent hole, wipe the Frizzen clean first, then the pan, thenflint & Under the flint after Every shot, etc. You will find this will make a difference. When you carry the rifle when hunting, carry it with the lock tilted out so the pan settles Away from the vent hole, not in it.

I would not do a Chambers vent liner change until you really know flinters, (an possibly never on the GPR as mine didn't need it) as you will be pulling that vent liner lots of times while you learn. The Chambers vent liner is top of the line (IMHO) but it is non-removable, so delay that a bit.

Good time Charlie · « **Reply #5 on:** November 10, 2004, 06:42:29 AM »

TOW said the white lighting liner is not made for the GPR. You would have to drill and re-tap and I am not ready for that. I will drill out the liner to .62. It shoots every time just a little slower than I like.
Old Charlie

Birddog6 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 10, 2004, 02:06:48 PM »

Oh the GPR is definately not made for it. It would have to be drilled out & tapped for a 5/16" liner as there is not enough meat there to get full threads from the metric threads existing to the 1/4 x 32 threads that Chambers uses in the 1/4" size. Also you have to have a countersink to cut the chamfer on the outside of the barrel for the vent liner to seat properly & etc.

If you would like to try a modified liner, I will mail you one & then if you like it you can just mail me back a new one whenever ya get one in. Not a big deal & I have modified lots of them & sent them to guys. And if ya don't liike it just send it back, not a big deal. (email me a Birddogsix@yahoo.com if interested)

Also, trying a different vent liner will Not void your warranty, it will be a Lyman vent liner just opened a tad & coned. Should you ever have a warranty problem, you simply put the original back & and send the rifle back. I have done well over a hundred of them & have yet to have anyone have a problem with them. Also I use 3F in the pan, & about 1/2 a pan full. 4F is fine in the pan but the lock builders will all tell ya the ignition dif in 3F to 4F was measured in Hundredths of a second and a human is not going to be able to tell a difference., so I would not go on a 4F hunt as it is not necessayr, possibly a want for trying... However, some think it is faster & it really don't matter, use what ya like. 4F is conveinent at the range as you can use the lil primer flasks & I do use it there..... I don't use it hunting as it gathers moisture too easy & makes black mush to easily & 3F or 2F will not absorbe the moisture as.

fffffg · « **Reply #7 on:** November 10, 2004, 03:50:06 PM »

as the flint gets dull it slows firing time.. i doubt there is much of a problem.. i would not drill out the flashhole.. .. try 3fg and pour it into the barrel.. tap the barrel not softly but not harshsly 10 times so the powder works all the way down the breach and starts into the flash hole.. use 4FG in the pan,, again use 4fg in the pan.. try different amounts until you get the right amount into the pan.. if hunting use a new sharp flint, and with a little work youll get the gun shooting fine.. you may need to use a drill bit to clean out the flash hole Before you put in the powder.. drill bit plus steel pluss rock residue equals ignition.you will hve trouble using black powder substitutes in a flint.. on a good gun you can dump the powder from the pan , and fire and get ignition, but that is not nessesary im just warning you how dangerous flinters can be.. i usually stick a tapered round tooth pick into the flash hole after ive loaded then prime.. on my chambers i fill the pan.. and its big.. keep tryhing different tricks, youll get what she llikes and then youll be happy. if you fired it for several monnths then maybe look at changing things.. call the factory and talk to tecknical service,, theyll probably be able to help.. yu also coould be getting wet powder comming back from wiping if using too much wipe moisture.. also lube could be a problem.. some guys have trouble with percussion ignition with tc lube..i suppose in some situations it could be a problem with some flints.. try neatsfoot oil on your patch.. waxes gunk things up more, but many love thestuff. i use it for shotgun, but not rifle anymore.. thousands and thousands of these guns are made and used by shooters all over the us.. stick with it, im not saying your gun doesnt have a problem, but check out all your options.. i personally would return it before i altered it as you will probably ruin the warranty if you alter it.. lyjan has to have a shop that tests stuff.. better yet have a local flint lock shooter load it and see what he thinks.. let us know what happens id love to have one.. ive got a chambers 16 gauge but would like a rifle.. dave..