new at hand loading

[ggardner]

I am going to get into loading in a small way for my 45 lc.  I went to a local shop for guidance and was told the RCBS Rock Chucker Kit had all I needed except the dies and components themselves.  About $270 for the kit and $35 for the dies.  Is that about right?
 
I do not wish to spend good money in ignorance at the beginning so can some of you experienced hands out there verify this or give me suggestions.  Thanks, GGardner

[MtJerry]

I bought that kit several years ago and it is a great kit to start with.

MAKE SURE it comes with a Reloading Manual.  IF NOT BUY ONE FIRST!!!

Spent about a week reading everything in it and make sure you understand the warnings and pitfalls new loaders get into.

After that, reload a few and then ---- YOU'RE HOOKED!

There is a great feeling you get from shooting that first round that you loaded yourself.

Good luck and come back to ask question if needed.  Lots folks will chime in and help I'm sure.

[ricciardelli]

I would also suggest the Rock Chucker Kit (around $240 if you shop) and the RCBS Accessory Kit (another $76).

That will definately give you everything you need.

Dies for your .45 Colt and shell holder should run around $33 for the carbide set.

[longwinters]

It is a good way to go, although you will be adding items soon.  However, I would go with the RCBS Turret reloading kit.  This is not a progressive machine, but rather one where you can put multiple dies on.  It is, in my mind, the best way to go.

Long

[Yukon Gold]

I started out 20 years ago with a rock chucker.  Your prices seem right if the kit includes a decent scale, powder measure and a few items such a primer flip trays etc.  The basic rock chucker runs something over $100.  The RCBS powder measure runs about $70.  A scale can run about $70 for the basic model.  However, you are talking about the bare minimum, and should expect to spend about $100 more on stuff like bullet trays, hand primers (the one that comes with the rock chucker will make you want to hang yourself).  Also note, when you but dies, they do not include a shell holder.

One suggestion - everyone goes into reloading "in a small way", but once you see the light - you end up reloading a lot, and even better, shooting a lot. For about the same money (maybe a little more) you can switch to a Dillon progressive press.

I went over to the Dillon press about 5 years ago.  Got tired of 5 to 6 steps to reload, when with the Dillon, it just takes one stroke per round.  I had read an article that if you reload 1000 rounds of 45LC, that you had paid for your Dillon in savings.  Between my sons and I, we can burn through 300 - 500 rounds in an afternoon.  By my calculations, I saved the total cost after 2-3 days of good shooting. Dillon advertises that you can reload 300 rounds per hour on the 550B, but for me, I seem to average 200 per hour.  Much faster than that, I start to make stupid mistakes - and no one wants a mistake when reloading.

Sometimes it just a good idea to spend a little extra in the beginning, rather than buying it all over again. You will never regret

[ggardner]

If I were to want to research the Dillon product, is there a particular model that would be a good starter?  Thanks for all the info so far. GGardner

[Questor]

You will also need a "shell holder" for that cartridge (about $2, and easy to forget.)  I can't recommend strongly enough that you also get the Lee Autoprime tool and it's 45LC shell holder also. It's an extra $15 or so, but it's more than worth the price in terms of making your life easier.  A caliper is practically a necessity because most cartridge recipes specify the length of the cartridge. These cost around $55 for a decent metal one (trust me, don't get the plastic ones. RCBS makes good ones). You can get by without one by guessing or by using a Lee length guage, but you really ought to have one.  You'll also need some carriage bolts to mount the press to your bench. And a couple of screws to mount the powder measure to your bench.

Other than that, you're all set. I started with the Rock Chucker Master kit, and it's been a great value.

I mount mine to the work bench in a way that makes it easy to remove. I bolted mine to a length of 2x6 board, then c-clamped the board to my work bench. That way, I can remove my reloading stuff if I need all of my bench space.

The Speer manual that comes with it is great and you don't need anything else, except maybe a Loadbooks USA book for the 45LC. These little beauties cost about $10 and have a collection of load data taken from most of the major manuals, and from powder and bullet manufacturers.

For powder, start with Unique. It's a classic for that caliber.  CCI 300 primers and Winchester brass are also good. The data  you find for the swaged bullets in the Speer manual will work for the commercially cast bullets you will find on the market.

Good luck. It's a worthwhile undertaking if you plan to shoot regularly.

[Yukon Gold]

In my opinion of Dillon Presses - the model 550B is my choice.  There are 2 models "better", but it depends on what accessories you want.  The 550B pretty much does it all.  The 650 model as auto case feed and auto index, but at a price.  I don't really like auto case feed because I like to look at each case before I reload it.  After reloading brass 8 or more times, they tend to split etc.  It's hard for me to inspect each case as I dump a bunch into a hopper.  I could inspect each once after polishing, but I know that I will miss a few.  By handling each one, I know I will inspect it.

Dillon also has some cheaper models - the Square Deal at the bottom.  But those models are not as flexible or expandable.

For the vast majority of us, the 550B will fit all of our hand loading needs now and in the future.  The 650 model is good for those wishing to crank out 1000 rounds per hour, and the 1050 is geared for commercial use.  However, you will shuck out some bucks for the latter two.  The 550B is very reasonable.

You can find their presses here:

http://dillonprecision.com/

By the way, if you intend to reload, you better but a brass tumbler to clean your brass before reloading.  You will also need a set of calipers as a minimum.  Don't forget the reloading manual and a decent scale!

Other things you will eventually buy is a case trimmer, and kinetic case puller... man, the list keeps getting longer!  But remember, it is not a purchase, it is an investment.

However, once you buy most of these items, they will last a lifetime.  When my Dad passed away 3 years ago, I got several dies that he had been using for over 40 years (to go along with the guns).  My brother and I shared the reloading stuff.  Most of it is as good as the day he bought it.  Few things a man can buy that will last so long.

Regards,

[jd45]

My 2 cents is this........the case is the central component in handloading. I reccomend getting Starline brass. It's thicker than all other & therefore will last much longer. Check with MidwayUSA.com, but you may get a better deal from Starline themselves. By the way, my favorite cartridge is the .45 Colt. Good Luck. jd45.

[clodbuster]

I agree with most of what has been said.  Just something to consider.  When I started a friend came over and mentored me through the first batch of .357's.  It was a great comfort in that I was sure I was going to mess up and blow up my treasured GP100.  Thousands of rounds later I still haven't blown up a single gun.  This is because of focus and willingness to ask quesitons.  Don't let yourself get distracted when loading.  Its easy to forget something..........say.........charging with powder and having a primer send one bullet half way down the bore and the next fully charged cartridge making a tremendous kaboom!!!!!!!!!
Good luck

[snuffy]

Here's a guide that I and a bunch of others came up with on the NAHC BBS. Please read through it, make any additions you think are important.

BASIC RELOADER RULES & REQUIREMENTS

1. Do you have the patience to do detailed work away from distractions, (TV, Children, guests)?
2. Do you have a secure area that can be dedicated strictly to a loading bench?
3. Do you thoroughly understand what goes on inside a cartridge when you pull the trigger?
4. Are you mechanically inclined? In other words can you understand and follow instructions exactly, to make needed adjustments to equipment? Do know how to use measurement tools such as calipers and micrometers?
5. Read the front sections of several reloading manuals. I suggest one manual, printed by a company that sells reloading equipment AND bullets. The other one should be by a company that sells only powder. Case in point Hornady then Hodgdon. After reading and understanding the “HOW TO” section in those manuals, find someone who already loads to show you how and talk you through a box of shells. Better yet find a NRA Metallic/Shotshell Reloading instructor and take a basic reloading class. See links below for locating an instructor.
6. Never be in a hurry. If you are pressed for time, this is when a mistake will be made.
7. Do not under any circumstances smoke, eat or drink, especially alcoholic beverages. The reasons are obvious, but I’ll state them anyway. Smokeless powder burns at a very high temperature; it makes a dandy accelerant to start a fire. Drinking causes loss of motor skills and judgment.
8. Wash hands thoroughly when you are through. You are dealing with lead in many forms when handling bullets and primers.
9. Walk before you run. Buy a single stage press to start out with. The progressives are neat and useful when doing large quantities of ammo. You will always have uses for the single stage loader for special loads later.
10. Stay with the basics at first. The tools for neck turning, flash hole uniforming, primer pocket uniforming and checking concentricity will be useful after you get some experience.
11. To start with, stay in the mid-range of the suggested loads for medium power levels. Save the maximum loads for when you have more experience.
12. Buy the best equipment you can afford. It will last a lifetime; the cheap stuff will wear out and need replacing.
13. Have ONLY the bullets, powder, primers and empties on the table that you are loading at that time. Put everything away as soon as you are done, in a separate place.
14. The only stupid question is one that doesn’t get asked. If you’re not sure, ask somebody. Use common sense, logic is a great tool for a Reloader.
15. Maintain a log of all loads developed with the test results. Label all boxes with the load data and date of the load.
16. Every Step is an inspection point.
17. The last thing you do before the bullet goes in " Look in every case to verify the powder charge".

Links for Reloading help and instructors

http://www.sierrabullets.com/ Bullet company, very good ballistic support group.
http://www.speer-bullets.com Bullet company
http://www.nosler.com/ Bullet company
http://www.hornady.com/ Bullet company
http://www.barnesbullets.com Bullet company
http://www.hodgdon.com Powder company
http://www.lapua.com VihtaVuori Powders
http://www.bluepress.com Dillon Loaders
http://www.mayvl.com/ Mec loaders
http://ww.sinclairintl.com/ Precision Reloading and Shooting specialist
http://www.lymanproducts.com All Lyman Products.
http://www.shooting-hunting.com Great hunting and shooting site with list of instructors
http://www.mynra.com/ NRA with links to NRA certified instructors








Basic steps to reloading. This is a short edited version from the "NRA GUIDE TO RELOADING".

There are 17 steps of which most are for both rifle and pistol and one for pistol only. This is will mark with an * .
1. Inspect cases,
2. Clean Cases
3.Organize cases by batchs
4.Select proper shell holder
5.Insert and set up sizing die
6. Lubricate cases
7.Resize and deprime cases
8. Measure case length
9.Trim cases
10 Deburr and Chamfering
11.Clean Primer Pocket
12.Expand Case mouth (*)
13.Prime Cases
14.Measure powder chargeand charge cases
15.Check powder charge in case
16.Seat bullet in case
17. Identify the reloaded cartridges (Mark the box etc.)

[ggardner]

Man...you guys are a blessing.  I find it hard to believe I got so much info. to help bridge the gap.  Thanks so very much.  Since I started this thread, I found a neighbor who rolls his own and has offered up all kinds of hardware and advise.  Cannot wait to shoot my own.

This forum is the bomb...no pun intended.              ggardner