More or less. The barrel needs just enough clearance to allow a $1 bill to pass.. this effectively removes any pressure that may alter the geometry of the action bedding. The action area is relieved to allow the bedding to bond to the wood and provide enough thickness (especially behind the recoil lug) for strength purposes. I like at least 1/4 inch behind the recoil lug. The front receiver ring should be supported about 1.2 the way up the sides and completely under the bottom, this pad should also include the rear of the barrel about 2 inches or a bit. Also pour a pad of bedding under the rear tang. None of the bedding should be exposed when the metal is installed in the stock. A bit of oil based modeling clay rolled nito a rope and laid across the barrel channel will contain the bedding compound. When the action is CORRECTLY bedded there will be no discernable movement of the action as a single bedding screw is loosened or tightened. On the M70 action the center screw serves no purpose other than retaining the front of the triggerguard. If it is tightened very much at all it will warp the action causing grave accuracy problems so screw tightness is something to watch. The front screw is tightened first and firmly, the rear next with a bit less torque but still tight. The middle screw is tightened just enough to retain the front of the trigger guard and supress it's movement. Where ever bedding is to be applied remove wood equal to the thickness of bedding pad needed. the front pad will be a continuous piece from the front of the magwell opening to several inches in front of the receiver ring. When done the action should have no tension and no movement when the screw are loosened or tightened, then the rifle can be shot for accuracy. If all is well no more has to be done. The barrel will be free floated. If pressure is desired a temporary pad can be made from a plastic credit card or something similar. Cut a piece and insert it into the barrel channel such that it covers the bottom half of the channel for a distance of about 1/2 inch. Thichness can be altered as can position to fine tune a bit for the sake of accuracy. When the right place is found a pad of bedding can be placed there by using the clay to damm up the channel on either side and a plastic shim to provide the correct thickness. Be certain to read and follow all directions carefully and use plenty of release agent,,,I'll say again'USE PLENTY OF RELEASE AGENT"!!!!!! The bedding material is a powerful glue and if it bonds to the metal your stock bedding job will be permanent. They can be seperated but it's a tramtic procedure and release agent is a good preventative. I prefer wax as a releaase agent over the skin forming agent provided by Brownells. The modeling clay should be used to plug any recess where the bedding may intrude to form a mechanical lock with the metal, i.e. magazine wells, around the trigger assembly, etc.. After the pour is made allow it to set to the rubbery stage and using a plastic chisel (sharpen an old toothbrush handle) cut away any overflow. It is easy to remnove now but can be a problem later. The plastic chisel won't damage the finish easily but will still cut the bedding.. If the metal is being difficult to remove a visit to a deep freeze for a few hours can break a minor bond but will accentuate a mechanical bond.. To falitate removeal of the metal work apply several layers of masking tape to the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug before applying release agent. This later removed from the bedding compound(it will stay in the recoil lug recess when the metal is removed) and the resulting tolerance will allow the metal to be easily taken out of the wood while preserving the tight fit between the rear of the recoil lug and the bedding.. Read this all again and if there are questions ask.. After the bedding is poured is a really bad time to find a problem..
