Author Topic: Ramrod (Read 1099 times)

Good time Charlie · « **on:** December 19, 2004, 02:25:47 AM »

Well I broke my first wooden ramrod yesterday. Reading here about people breaking them, I was beginning to think what are they doing wrong! I was lucky it split but did not break completely into. I saw the spilt. If not the next ball I tried to ram would have put that ramrod thorough my hand! I think I will take some advice I have seen here and buy me a steel range rod.
Charlie

roundball · « **Reply #1 on:** December 19, 2004, 05:05:38 AM »

GTC, brass rods are also outstanding...both hollow and solid...I replaced all the wooden ramrods on my TC Hawkens to avoid what you just described...

Bought mine at Warren Muzzleloading in Ozone, Arkansas...they just did a name change to Ozone Muzzleloading...1-800-874-3810

Dave K · « **Reply #2 on:** December 19, 2004, 05:06:54 AM »

I will admit, I can't even imagine NOT having a steel range rod. As a matter of fact the more cal. you own, the more rods you will buy. I get lazy changing jags and just grab the rod with the correct jag on it. Don't forget the bore guide! For the hunting rod the best way not to break a rod is to keep your hand close to the muzzle when pushing the load down. Also make 3 rods at a time and you will never break another rod. :wink:

Les Staley · « **Reply #3 on:** December 19, 2004, 10:26:37 AM »

When I buy five or six hickory rods, like from TOTW, or whomever, I soak them for a couple of months in #1 fuel oil, or kerosene,, in a piece of 2" plastic pvc pipe, with an end cap glued on.. fill with kerosene, stand them in the corner of the garage, and it makes the wood fairly supple, not prone to breaking.. I have the original rod I made for my 50 flinter (42") still in the rifle, since 1986. best wishes..Les

tony212 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 24, 2004, 08:34:57 AM »

I broke the ramrod on my TC Greyhawk the second time I used it. I brought it to my dealer and he made me a new one from an aluminum arrow shaft. I haven't had a problem since and it has been about 10 years. He used a shaft that was colored to look like wood, and epoxyed the ends on. Just another option you might want to try.
Tony

tscott · « **Reply #5 on:** December 25, 2004, 04:27:04 PM »

Tony, I have been embarassed to admit to my solution, for broken / left at the range rods. I just cut up an old xx75 (2117)arrow. I tape 1" of athletic tape on either end... A little od paint, and I have a very light, never fail rod.

Lefty38-55 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 27, 2004, 01:44:11 PM »

Quote from: roundball

Bought mine at Warren Muzzleloading in Ozone, Arkansas...they just did a name change to Ozone Muzzleloading...1-800-874-3810

They have a website, www.ozonemountain.com , of course. Thanks for the tip

! I ordered a solid long brass rod for range work and a tubular brass rod for woods walking.

riddleofsteel · « **Reply #7 on:** December 29, 2004, 02:15:25 PM »

I found a round fiberglass rod at Home Depot that was ment to mark the edge of a driveway. I cut it off to length and found that the old hardware from my Renegade factory ram rod fit perfectly after I drilled out old wood. The only downside is it is orange but it is light, unbreakable, and cheap.

roundball · « **Reply #8 on:** December 29, 2004, 03:33:06 PM »

Quote from: riddleofsteel

I found a round fiberglass rod at Home Depot that was ment to mark the edge of a driveway. I cut it off to length and found that the old hardware from my Renegade factory ram rod fit perfectly after I drilled out old wood. The only downside is it is orange but it is light, unbreakable, and cheap.

FYI...if you don't already own some, you might want to get a couple of plastic muzzle guides/muzzle protectors from Builder's Supply or some other muzzleloader supply house...fiberglass will eat the rifling away at the crown in no time

Birddog6 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 29, 2004, 04:11:01 PM »

It is real simple.... if you have grain runout in the ramrod it is prone to breaking, and I don't care what you soak it in.....

IMHO, a good straight grained ramrod needs no soaking in anything, except possibly 2-3 good rubbed in coats of finish such as Tru-Oil to keep the moisture out. They didn't soak them for 300 years & it is not necessary now. In 35 years & with over 50 dif ML rifles in the past, I have never broken a Straight grained ramrod... and there is no telling haw many thousands of loads I have loaded & shot....

About 75% of the ramrods sent or brought to me for replacement are broken because of the Notch or Line cut in them at the muzzle made a weak place in them..

So for you fellers that have this undesirable urge to carve on your ramrods.... Don't. You don't need to cut a mark in the ramrod. All ya have to do is put the ramrod all the way in to the ball, mark the end with your thumb & pull it out & lay it along the barrel...... it is quite obvious if you forgot the powder & it if ball is all the way down.

If you are so that you just Must have a mark there, load the rifle, put the RR down the bore to the ball & mark the RR at the end of the muzzle with a marker. Now remove the ramrod & drill a very small hole thru the RR the same size as a #3 finish nail, take some superglue or clear epoxy & squirt into the hole & sand the nail a little & shove the nail into the hole. Let it dry, clip off the nail on both ends & file it down smooth carefully, now you have a permanent mark & the rod is just as strong as it was & no weak place there by a notch or line cut into it. Can do the same with a brass rod or silver rod or whatever.... Looks allot better than a notch & definately stronger.

I know one guy that has 2 dif loads for a rifle. 1 RB load & a Conical load & he has 2 small pins in the end of the rod for each respective place. Works for him....... :-)

PA-Joe · « **Reply #10 on:** December 30, 2004, 03:11:54 AM »

Another place to get ram rods is at www.rmcsports.com.

dlemaster · « **Reply #11 on:** December 30, 2004, 04:39:55 AM »

Birddog6 has it right. A straight grain rod will not break under normal usage.
There was article in "Muzzle Blasts" in the early '80s that explained how to make a straight grained rod by splitting them out of Hickory saplings or straight limbs.
Since I am pretty much a traditional Flintlock Rifle builder and shooter this is what I use. I just consider that making a straight grained ramrod is just part of making the Rifle or Trade gun. It takes a little time but it's very easy. When you are finished you have a very tough, durable rod that looks and is traditional.
About 4 years ago I found a place in southern Ohio that the Mead Paper Company had cut some timber from. They left a lot of Hickory saplings laying around. I was able to trim several poles into usable lengths and I now have a lifetime supply of Hickory ramrod material in the rafters of my shop.
Hope this helps.

Regards, Dave