Author Topic: Leather Wrapped Recoil Pad (Read 846 times)

Prince of Wales · « **on:** December 19, 2004, 07:26:13 PM »

I have a Husky 30/06 that shoots very well, showing surprisingly little recoil. I like that. What I don`t like is the old style white line pad it wears.You know what they say "If it ain`t broke don`t fix it"? So rather than change the pad to a newer type I`m thinking of just wrapping mine in leather. Anyone know how it`s done? thanks. POW

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** December 19, 2004, 08:31:31 PM »

I will say my experience in this is very limited indeed. I lean more to steel, skeleton steel butt plates.. Covering a pad with leather requires patience and a bit of knowledge. if I can find those instructions I'll pass them on for what it's worth.. Perhaps JUDSON may be more familiar??

springer222 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 20, 2004, 07:26:03 AM »

I read a "how to" article on the Nitro Express site awhile back that had step-by-step, with pics, that might be benifical. I can't find the article (thought I had it book-marked), but do a search on the website. If I run across what I thought I had saved, I will post.

http://www.nitroexpress.com/

Judson · « **Reply #3 on:** December 20, 2004, 12:05:59 PM »

I am with Gunnut here my experience is more with the skeleton and checkered steel types. On the big guns the Pachmyer Decelerator is the usual choice. Leather covered pads never fit as flush and have sort of fallen out of vogue except on things like classic double rifles ans such. Also in many respects they are not as practical as their modern counterparts. They tend to crack and dry out with age and do not take bad weather very well. However a leather covered pad is something I have to learn how to do since I am now building some double rifles and I am sure it will come up soon.
What is a pain in this gunsmithing game is that there is so much to learn and so little time in life!!!

gunnut69 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 20, 2004, 06:50:24 PM »

Acutally JUDSON it's the learning that keeps your mind young!! Wish it helped the joints.. Hurt my leg the weekend at the daughters graduation exercises. Still I guess living just hurts a bit. I have seen some of the leather covered pads and the quality caries greatly. The Pad must be cut undersized to allow for the thickness of the leather that covers it. Also the article hard them tapering the leather that was folded under the base of the pad with a blade. I believe a mototool with a sanding drum would work much better. There was still a gap where the covered pad met the butt stock although there is a certain look. I was going to build a 45-70 or 45-90 on a mauser with a quarter rib and oll the bells and whistles. A pad would almost be a necessity and a leather covered one would really look nice. Of course that project will have to wait in line.. I can't find the how-to article but hace a bit more looking to do. I haven't been able to get down the steps to my shop as the knee is really acting up. Perhaps tomorrow.. What kind of doubles are you going to do JUDSON? One of the Ruger Gold Labels SxS would make a great platform for a double built on a monoblock.. The pivots would likely be a bear but the result would indeed be interesting. Also with the Ruger penchant for over engineering strength should not be a problem..

Mikey · « **Reply #5 on:** December 21, 2004, 03:27:24 AM »

POW - if it is just the white line spacer you do not care for and have no problem with the recoil, why don't you go to a Tandy's Leather Shop or similar place, get yourself some thin leather in the color you perfer and use it to just cover the spacer. Or, remove the pad, see if you can remove the white spacer and replace it with a black one. I think they are just spacers. Mikey.

Prince of Wales · « **Reply #6 on:** December 21, 2004, 08:57:29 AM »

Mikey you mean the spacers are removable? That might be what I`ll do to prevent the leather from adding length of pull. Its a truely beautiful rifle but for the pad.
How do you remove the white lines once the pad is off the rifle? Thanks. POW

CEJ1895 · « **Reply #7 on:** December 21, 2004, 09:31:14 AM »

Prince of Wales - I'm not sure if the husky recoil pad of yours is in the same as some of my other rifles but once you remove the pad the white line spacer should just come off. It's a seperate piece from the rest of the pad, at least it is on my rifles. I got rid of the white spacers on my dad's Marlin this way. Hope this helps you! CEJ...

gunnut69 · « **Reply #8 on:** December 21, 2004, 09:38:01 AM »

Some plastic butt plates have a white plastic spacer inserted between the butt plate and the wood. Retained by the butt plate screws they can be removed by simply unscrewing the butt plate and taking the spacers off before reapplying the butt plate. Usually the recoil pads have the white line spacer molded into the pad. These cannot be readily removed from the pad as they are part of the molded assembly. Perhaps simply replacing the white line pad with a black pad of the same thickness would be the most effective. You might even upgrade to a pad built of the more effective Decelerator type material. This would be an easier task than leather covering a pad and also result in better recoil handling...

Judson · « **Reply #9 on:** December 21, 2004, 03:42:05 PM »

Though years ago the white line was considered classic now it is considered tacky. If all you want to do is loose the white line the easiest way to go is to replace the pad with something like a Pachmayer Decelerator and it would be a better pad also
As to the double I ab building it is based on a French heavy 16 gauge gun with of all things a one piece mono block, quite the piece of machining!!!! I am building it for the 450N.E. #2 which will keep pressures well within the proof range. I will have to re proof it of course but it should work out well.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 21, 2004, 06:40:43 PM »

What kind of locking system does the french double use. To build a mono block is a task indeed.. but better I suppose than machining the barrel ends into a dovetail joint! How are you planning to regulate the barrels? Are they sweated together are or you using a mechanical joint at the front..

Prince of Wales · « **Reply #11 on:** December 22, 2004, 08:05:56 AM »

Its not just a matter of losing the white line (brand name) pad. Its a matter of not changing anything but the appearance. For whatever reason this gun just has so little kick. I have to think it is the pad design. I have shot another Husky 06 and it was not at all the same. This one just don`t kick. I don`t want to change the pad to find out the hard way that it was a mistake. If it ain`t broke don`t fix it applies here. I just wish I could leather wrap it. Thanks. POW

savageT · « **Reply #12 on:** December 22, 2004, 09:01:51 AM »

POW,
Sounds like the easiest and safest thing to do is to remove said pad and try it for recoil before doing anything else.....Hmmm Leather covered pad, boy do I live a sheltered life! I thought the classic white spacer was "IT"!

Jim

gunnut69 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 22, 2004, 10:57:54 AM »

Well it was? I have a beautiful 300 W.mag built on a 1917 enfield with a whiteline pad, big flaring grip cap, and french skip line checkering. Built it in the mid 70's for a moose hunt. Never killed a moose with it but it has become a favorite deer rifle. Loves the 200 Nosler partitions and nearly any large charge of 4831.. But unfortunately it's pretty dated as far as style goes.. of course I really don't much care so I suppose no change is in the offing...

Judson · « **Reply #14 on:** December 22, 2004, 12:07:15 PM »

I think that the Pachmayer Decelerator will keep the recoil nice and mellow, and yes style does change. It was not that long ago that pure black ebony was what was desired for forend tips and you paid a premium for the stuff. Ebony that showed grain was considered poor quality. Now with the use of so much plastic for forend tips the ebony with the grain showing commands the top price.
As for the double the original mono block is all one piece and the original barrels were sweated into it. I have to turn new barrels, sweat them into the mono block solder every thing up with temporary sights then after proofing go out to the bench for the regulating of the barrels. This process is very time consuming and involves lots of luck more then science as things do not always work out as planed. Basically you move the wedges either forward or back depending on the spread left and right. Elevation is controlled by using a special tool to twist one barrel up the other down. If you want some fun go to a range with a torch and some tools and try to regulate a rifle. If you see a person having trouble sighting in walk over with your torch and big wrench in hand and ask him if he needs any help.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #15 on:** December 22, 2004, 09:27:04 PM »

Yes, U can see the fun in that and certainly hope the guy your talking to does also

I just noticed you address and believe I may know a gentleman from that area. The name is lost in the files but he had a slew of old winchester lever guns and was nearly deaf! He related to me that he and his father made the saddle rings for the Winchester levers until they stopped using them. Can't for the life of me remember the name, CRS is getting closer and closer together..