Strange Happening

[MINNESOTA DICK]

I reworked my trigger on my 243 ultra and it breaks at 10 to 12 oz.  Well I went to the range and did some cold weather (30 dergees) shooting last Wend.  Its the first  time I have used it in cold weather.  It worked real good, until the gun was out in the cold for about 3 to 4 hours. Then the fun begain. :roll:  The trigger would not catch when I would cock it. Oh boy.    I went home and tryed it the next morning after the gun was in the house all night and warmed up and it works fine now.

Do you think that the metal of the hammer and trigger contracted from the cold enough to cause this.  I guess I have a warm weather gun or I have to start over with new trigger parts. May I try just a heavyer trigger return spring first.

[Duce]

MD: How oily did you have everything, could be that the lube jelled and overoad the trigger return spring, clean and use dry lube. But if you've taken the engagement to far down, start over, you're working with a very rudimentory trigger system. I've worked over, don't know how many of these. I've been able to keep them safe and crisp but never below 2 lbs.  When you getting down into the ounces you've just got to little engagment.  I'm not saying you can't do it and with the transfer bar your relitively safe from an accidently discharge, but your going to lose a few parts. Good Luck   Duce:

[MINNESOTA DICK]

I just hate the thoughts of driving those damm pins out again.  I have a can of Remmington Drilube and I may try it out and put it back together and set it in the cold garage over night and see what happens.

When I reworked the trigger, I put a ball point pen spring in for the trigger return spring. :wink:   I am also thinking that light of a spring on the trigger return spring could have effected it also when it got cold.

The other thing is as you mentioned it could have been a lube problem.  When I am done cleaning the bore I run a patch of Kroil thru it.  When I sore the gun I set it muzzle up and some of the Kroil could have worked its way down into the trigger area.

It's interesting that the transfer bar works for preventing an accidently discharge.  the first time it happened, I cocked  the hammer and it would catch but the would release it self with out touching the trigger with a live round in the chamber but didn't fire the round. I tryed this about three or four times.  I then took the round out and tryed cocking the hammer a few times and it wouldn't catch at all.

As they say back to the drawing board. :wink:

[Jeffery8mm]

When I first did my trigger I TRIED to sand lightly, really I did. :grin:
But it got old real fast, all that putting together and trying the pull,  so I sanded really alot that last time.  Guess what MD, I too had the same prob you are having.  For just a few bucks, Numrich will put you back in a safe mode with you gun parts.  This time I sanded lighly, by remembering the cost of the parts I was able to slow down a bit.  Now I have a nice trigger!!!!!
Jeff

[jeff223]

when you do a trigger job on one of these dont use any oil on the sear at all.(NO OIL)with a dry sear this is where you want to check out your trigger pull.

as far as driving out the pins,the second time around it will be easy.the first time is when its hard to get them loose.you may want to replace the return spring with one with alittle more tention.you can also cut one coil off the stock spring and that spring works good after you cut the coil off.dont drive the pins all the way back in until you are happy with the trigger pull.there are all kinds of springs that will work but i like cutting one coil off.the handi rifle triggers work good  with 1.5lb(24oz) trigger pull and more.i did a number of them some time ago and they all worked out good and are still working good.

[Fred M]

MINNESOTA DICK
You have to make sure the return spring does not overpower the sear.
In your case the return spring seeams too light??
Jeff223 has it right by snipping off the issue return spring a little at the time. The trigger has to have a smooth follow thtough, lest the transfer-bar takes a dive. I played around with different return springs and found out that a shortened factory return spring works best. A 24oz trigger with an 8oz return spring works pretty good.

[Duce]

Folks: I may get spanked for telling you this but won't be the first time!!!
One of the first books I read on gunsmithing told how to set a basic trigger up. In it it told you to take the notch down a small amount, but to radius the nose of the trigger, because the flat can be easily reastablished. When working on triggers use fine stones, when radiusing the trigger it only takes as few even strokes. Remember!!!!! even a heavy trigger that breaks cleanly can be shot well, creep is what you want to elminate. Be Careful:  :wink: <>< Duce

[safetysheriff]

At the risk of sounding simplistic I'd like to recommend the following, which I've done with my own Handi's:

Do Not stone or sand any sear or other Handi' parts.     Bend the one end of the hammer spring JUST A BIT (in the right direction!) to lessen its tension against the inside rail of the frame that it sits on -- next to the trigger group.    This lightens spring tension without compromising ignition reliability and thereby Lessens Trigger Pull Weight.     I've done a few of them this way with excellent results.    I also put Reasonable thumb pressure on a cocked hammer while releasing the trigger to smooth any burrs off the mating surfaces.    This helps, too, if repeated a few times.    

Lubricate the rifle with an aerosol lubricant that won't set up/congeal in the cold.    WD-40 is garbage, absolute garbage.    Stay away from it.  

I've done trigger jobs on other firearms using stones/files/abrasive papers; but have never needed this on a Handi'.    

Good luck to you,

SS'